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First PWC - Need some guidance!

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meedz

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Hey all,

First time to the forum, and first time PWC owner - I was about to purchase a 2015 spark, then decided to pick-up a used '93 GTX to tinker with before making a large investment!

That being said, I grabbed a '93 GTX (had an engine rebuild in '98) that started on the seller's driveway no problem. He had it winterized all winter long and hadn't taken it out this season. New battery, new spark plugs, fresh fuel and oil. As soon as I brought it over to the water, that was the end of it lol. It turns over, but won't fire up.

I did some research, I know I need to swap out the "grey" fuel lines, clean out the fuel selector, and i'm almost positive the carb needs a good cleaning. I was able to re-start it finally today in my garage after cranking with the throttle pulled for a good 1 minute until it started to hesitate and somewhat fire. I continue to turn over and give gas until it finally came alive again.

My questions:

1) Sometimes as I'm turning over for an extended period (30 seconds-1 min), when i let go of the start button and re-try I get a ticking noise. If i wait a few minutes, it will work again. Is this the starter solenoid on it's way out?

2) Are these two strokes generally hard to start up? What is the proper procedure starting them up? Choke out the full way until she fires? Or Should i be giving gas?

3) and lastly, what are your recommendations for a solid tune up?


Many thanks in advance, super excited to be apart of the PWC family!
 
Before running anymore change those lines and clean carbs. Make sure to clean the little filters in the carbs. Clean or replace fuel selector valve.

1) try not to run starter for more than 20-40 seconds. It may overheat if you crank longer than that.

2) No not when they are in good working order. Full choke when cold until fire. No gas. Once it has been cranked and warm , no choke to crank and barely apply pressure to the throttle.

3). see response prior to #1. Also change plugs.


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When things are as they should be, they start pretty easily. The lines are CRITICAL as far as run-ability and not destroying the engine. In your case, I would hook up an external tank with premix fuel in it and see if it starts as it should or not. The carbs are not a "may" need cleaning, they MUST be. The green goo that the Grey Tempo lines produces will plug the internal filters and the needles and seats. The fuel selector will often be junk. Even a good cleaning may not fix it as for some reason they such air or the internal valves don't operate as they should.

Do not crank the engine for a minute, it will destroy the starter. 15 seconds is a long time...
 
Listed to the advice, and she's running great now! First start-up took some cranking, but now she fires up in no time.

One last thing: - Just looking at the shop manual, it lists "Lubricate drive shaft, lubricate grease fitting at PTO flywheel" as well as "lubricate grease fitting at seal carrier".

The picture in my next post I understand is the driveshaft, I will grease through the "nipple" . Now what about the grease fitting at the PTO Flywheel as well as seal carrier. Where are those located?
 
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IMG_3262.JPG

Where do I find the grease fitting for PTO flywheel and seal carrier?
 
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In the picture you supplied, it is looking straight up at you. It is called a "Zerc Fitting". Right next to the grey nose extension.

Oops, okay got that part.
My understanding is I need to lubricate 2 things, as per the shop manual: 1) driveshaft at PTO flywheel 2) Grease fitting at seal carrier.

Are these the same thing? Or where do I find the second Zerc Fitting?
 
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it's a "zerc fitting" as well. remove that grey cover, it's underneath on the pto flywheel. you may need to turn the motor by hand to find it.
 
Oops, okay got that part.
My understanding is I need to lubricate 2 things, as per the shop manual: 1) driveshaft at PTO flywheel 2) Grease fitting at seal carrier.

Are these the same thing? Or where do I find the second Zerc Fitting?

Noobie, I should have known it was under there. Thank you!


One last question, is that white silicone at the end of the sleeve? Does that need re-filling or does it just look like that from a previous repair?

430.jpg



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As long as it doesn't leak you should be fine, I believe that looks factory, can't remember. You can check to see if it moves if you're really concerned, it should NOT move it should be tight to the hull. The most important thing here is the carrier bearing if it seizes it can rip the whole rear (fiberglass) out of the boat. I can't recall but I think that needs checked every ten hrs or so, I looked in the clymers manual but couldn't find it. Seadoo later switched to a carbon ring. The pto boot looks to be full of grease and in good shape as well, squeeze it and you'll know if it needs more or not.
 
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