BRP requirements....
This is what is recommended from seadoo as far as oil and fuel is concerned. If the oil is in the same spec, you should be good to go.
Use High quality low ASH API TC Injector oil.
Do Not use NMMA TC-W, TC-W2 or TC-W3 outboard motor oils or other ash less type 2 cycle oil. Avoid mixing different brands of API TC oil as resulting chemical reaction will cause severe engine damage. Never mix Mineral or synthetics oil together.
Never use fuel containing more than 10 % alcohol,( Methanol or Ethanol) as severe damage will occur. The minimum of 87 octane is recommended for most engines.
Karl
__________________
KustomKarl has listed the basic oil requirments that BRP recommends, so if that oil fits those descriptions, then you would be fine......
But, there is a fine line of what you are asking. Here's why.
Back in 96, 97 BRP used an oil called "injection oil" which was a mineral based oil with synthetic blends. So, if your machine still uses that type oil and this oil maintains that requirement, then you will be fine. The other thing, .....if the bottle has a Seadoo on it, if it states it meets Seadoo's requirements on the back of the bottle, then it is BRP approved. The easy way to figure it? DO you think a company making oil would use Seadoo's name, knowing that if it did not meet their requriements, they coud be sued out the yang yang and be at fault, in a court of law, in a class action suit that could cost them millions....? :rofl: No, I'm sure BRP already knows they are providing this oil to their BRP users.
I'd like to add to Kustom Karls' statement about the severe damage about the use of Ethanol.... I think he must have done a bit of research because to engines that are carb equipped, yes, you can do severe damage to your motor. Why?.....because as eveyone knows, alcohol absorbs water. So, outside the fact you are now creating prime conditions of drawing moisture into your tank, you've also got to worry about the other major facts. Alcohol based products will eat away at anything rubberized.
If you do a search (I research everything I write about) on the internet, using google, you'll find out that just this past few years, that Ethanol has began being seen mainstream a lot more, they have actuall started manafacturing cars designed to run on E85, they call them FFV's or flexible fuel vehicles. While burning E85 or 10% ethanol is probably going to be something we can't avoid, for a car or truck engine (or any 4 stroke), the damage would be practically eleminated in a few years but to the watercraft industry, which still uses a large selection of the 2 strokes, this will continue to damage the engines until they do a complete overhaul of our fuel systems. At present, you can only buy additives on adding to your ethanol fuels to help counter the alcohol affects it creates. Especially when the ski/boat is not running.
Oils........we started the topic on oil and I'd like to close this thread with one word of advice. IF you have a ski/boat that came out in the low to upper 90's, our shop manuals are still good for us to work on our motors. But, you have to remember, there have been huge leaps in technology, especially when it comes to petroleum products. When synthetics first came out, they were widely brushed aside because they destroyed our seals. Well, now, in 2009, this is no longer a problem. I challenge anyone to research data on the molecular structure of mineral oils verses synthetic oils and I believe, you, like me willl probably be changing everything you own to synthetics. I use them in almost everything, including my chainsaw. Its not about dino blood and some chemical stuff that was mixed together, it's about how science and technology has determined the best way to stop heat, through minimizing friction, that makes protection for bearing surfaces what it is today. IT's a bit more costly, but in my opinion, well worth it. I changed the "full synthetic" oil in my truck last week. It has over 100,000 thousand miles on it. I use a hig mileage oil filter which is PTFE equipped, that is released slowly into my oil. I run my oil for 5 or 6 thousand miles verses the 3 thousand that is recommended by most car manufacturers and when I change it......it is still a beautiful color and has no burnt smell. In anything I own that I've opened up for inspection,.......pistons, valves and bearings (especially babbitted bearings) all look really clean and smooth).
Don't take my word for it, though most who know me well, know I don't talk smack either............but hey, we all have a right to our own opinions........:cheers:
