Engine won't fire with low Battery?

[Lee]

Just got my boat back from dealer today,paid $200 for them to charge my battery:ack:
Here's why I took it to them:
Last outing I got water in the fuel because of a broken vent valve.Drained the tank,replaced with new gas. Turned it over many times ,no start
Brand new battery,lots of juice.I had the guy I bought it from write in the sale agreement a 7hr warranty so He suggested take it to the dealer at his cost He even picked it up and took it in.When he delivered back to me he said the reason it wouldn't start was a low battery.
My question is:Am I gonna be dead in the water(again)because my battery isn't FULLY charged?
I'm gonna have to call Bull*hit on this one
Any thoughts?

 

[kustomkarl]

That sounds like a cover up...after draining the fuel and adding new and turning it over, it should have fired up. Yea if the battery isn't up to par it could be a problem, but with a new battery it should have fired. I would check the battery connections and just keep an eye on it first time out. If it turns the engine over at a good clip it should have enough amps to start it. If you have to charge it, cause its not starting the engine it might have a bad cell or 2. Run it and see what happens...
Keep us posted.

Karl

 

[Lee]

I will keep you posted

 

[Gunsrunner]

Check that the battery is getting charge when it's running, my battery sits on 14.3 volt's when im at 3000rpm's and 12.7 when motors are off.
$200 would have bought me a new battery and a charger to charge it if it went flat.:rofl:
If there was water in the carbies when you tried to start it, you may have flattened the battery then, turning over a motor takes quite a lot of charge.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Water in engine!

I'm working with a 650 cc PWC engine right now that has been flooded. I've got everything in working order but can't get a start yet but I know why.

The water has mixed with the oil in the crankcase and I'm getting it clean enough for the fuel to fire. So, I've taken out the plugs and rolled the starter over a lot. It keeps blowing out the "milky" looking oil, with water mixed. So, it appears the plugs are not going to fire the fuel mixture till I get all this milky, oily water out of the engine casing. So far, I've rolled the engine over, pouring a little gas in the carbs and spark plug holes, trying to clean it up. The fuel line has been disconnected since the work started.

Have you removed the plugs and put a rag over the plug holes and turned the starter over? You can see what kind of liquids are holding up in the crankcase this way. You will run the battery down trying to clean it out. I almost want to dump it upside down and just let gravity help me.

In the two strokes, the exhaust and intake are higher up the block, so it seems that un-combustible liquids settle along the crank, causing no starts. What a pain in the a**............

Good luck and just keep trying. Pull the plugs and spin the motor till you get clean oily gas spitting out of the plugs, or nothing coming out at all, then try to fire it up.

BTW, the motor I'm working on is not in a Seadoo........:cheers:

 

[Lee]

All's good

Thanks for the replies,guys
Gunsrunner,no carbies,it's a fuelie
Louis,4 stroke,no oily gas I hope
I was misled by 3rd party info,
I talked to the "tech" that worked on it and he admitted he killed the battery trying to start it.While it was charging he changed the plugs.Fired right up!Apparantly the plugs were water soaked.We tried to change them on the water (when it died) but the plug wrench stripped
I've since put a 5/8 plug wrench in the boat.I'm going to add some gasline anti-freeze next fill up before we go out
Thanks again for the quick replies

 

[Gunsrunner]

See this is the prob when i dont read peoples avatar, 2005 sporster 150 of course no carbies, Sorry:rofl:

 

[kustomkarl]

Lee, I wouldn't add anything to the fuel. I would just try to get out all the fuel you could and not take a chance of fouling the plugs with additives that more than likely won't work on the seadoo...that additive is made for car engines. I have never had good luck with additives on water craft engines.
Here is a little info on plug changing just for giggles...

4-tec plugs NGK brand, DCPR8E Gap/ 0.7-0.8 MM or .028-.031in.
To replace the plugs remove the Oil dipstick, remove the plastic cover over the engine, replace the dip stick. Unplug the wire from the spark plug coil ( it's part of the spark plug cap) wiggle and pull the cap/coil out of the spark hole. Be careful not to break it. Loosen the spark plug, insert the cap/coil in to grab the plug and remove it. Gap the new plug, remove the screw top on the top of the plug, insert it in the cap/coil push it in the plug hole. Use a socket to tighten it. Snug it up go about 1/4 turn, loosen and snug it up(this compress the seal ring on the bottom of the new spark plug). Put some grease on the coil cap where it meets the cylinder and insert on the plug. Connect the coil wire. Do one spark plug at a time. Replace the plastic cover.

Karl