Hello, I have a 2000 GTI and searched forums far and wide and cannot find an answer to my engine knock. the attached video is after replacing the plugs and removing the pump. It happened when traveling at top speed when out of no where it just died, would not even click when start button was depressed until I check the fuses which must have reset something. Now it will start but sounds awful. there is also a pin hole in the exhaust U tube that just formed but I think that is unrelated. Any ideas?
-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
Engine knock
- Thread starter rgbII
- Start date
- Status
There is no resetting of fuses, they either blow or they don't.
If it shut off at top speed then would not crank it sounds like it seized and if it makes bad noises then something let go like a piston or rod. I would check compression at the very least and probably pull the head to look.
If it shut off at top speed then would not crank it sounds like it seized and if it makes bad noises then something let go like a piston or rod. I would check compression at the very least and probably pull the head to look.
Yep, compression check. Head is easy to remove and have a look. You can pull a spark plug to see which cylinder is causing trouble if it is only one but a compression check would let you know if there is a problem. Check your pump shaft. Sometimes stuff gets caught up in there. Good Luck
took it apart this morning. I found the piston rod was bound up. In the pic you can see the bottom of the piston rod and I'm not sure if that metal is a spacer or thrust ring. It looks like I'm going to need a rebuilt crank because I don't have the tools to do that one myself. The rest of the pistons, cylinders etc look great. is there anything else I should be checking before ordering the parts? also is there anything else I should replace other than seals, rings while I'm in this deep?
thanks
thanks
Attachments
TheGTIjetguy
Member
Definitely a bad connecting rod bearing. You got lucky the rod breaking didn’t cause cylinder damage.
I would consider doing pistons and rings since they will be out anyway. 120 on the cylinder without damage isn’t great and you may find yourself back in there in not too much time.
Just check the top of your current pistons for lettering or numbers to see if your cylinders have been bored before ordering new ones. They will probably have an (STD) for standard bore or a number such as .025. You will need to order the same as you see.
Last but not least. If the ski still has the oil injection system, that needs to be checked. Definitely want to find the reason the bearing had a catastrophic failure so it doesn’t happen again with the new one.
I would consider doing pistons and rings since they will be out anyway. 120 on the cylinder without damage isn’t great and you may find yourself back in there in not too much time.
Just check the top of your current pistons for lettering or numbers to see if your cylinders have been bored before ordering new ones. They will probably have an (STD) for standard bore or a number such as .025. You will need to order the same as you see.
Last but not least. If the ski still has the oil injection system, that needs to be checked. Definitely want to find the reason the bearing had a catastrophic failure so it doesn’t happen again with the new one.
TheGTIjetguy
Member
Some people remove the oil pump and run pre-mix gas. If you do that, make sure to keep the tank full and the lines to the rotary gear in the bottom end connected as that still needs lubrication.
Testing it is simple as well, you’ll have it off anyway to spilt the cases, so you can just use a drill to spin the pump, just keep it connected to the oil tank and hold it low in the hall. You should see oil coming out the little lines at a fast drip, especially when you hold the lever at the WOT position.
Or you can just replace the pump if you’d like. Probably not necessary though.
Testing it is simple as well, you’ll have it off anyway to spilt the cases, so you can just use a drill to spin the pump, just keep it connected to the oil tank and hold it low in the hall. You should see oil coming out the little lines at a fast drip, especially when you hold the lever at the WOT position.
Or you can just replace the pump if you’d like. Probably not necessary though.
I tested the oil pump like you suggested, using a drill and holding the pump at WOT. nothing came out either line. I disconnected the lines and nothing came out the pump. I didn't take the time to determine which direction it spins so I tried both directions using the drill. sounds like this was the root of my problem. I took a look at the pistons and they are std but when I removed the "good" cylinder both piston and cylinder wall were scored pretty badly. I think the price just went up for my rebuild, full top and bottom end 
TheGTIjetguy
Member
That makes sense. Sorry for your luck. Maybe look into SBT fully rebuilt engines. Shorter turn around time and less hassle.
at 6-8 weeks for an rebuild exchange I decided to do the rebuild myself (1 week for parts and maybe a week to rebuild). I have it torn down except for the PTO (waiting on tool), the RV cover and valve have groove damage but the block side is really good, just some minor scratches(no worse than the split between top and bottom of the block). how bad can the RV cover be? I see used ones that look worse than mine but new ones look like they have no grooves/scratches.
Attachments
You're gonna play hell getting the PTO of the crankshaft without the cylinders and head assembled.
I've done it a number of times but I have a large vice, torch, impact and whatever else I need. I've had to heat and heat and heat these things to get them to come apart. Good Luck with it.
I've done it a number of times but I have a large vice, torch, impact and whatever else I need. I've had to heat and heat and heat these things to get them to come apart. Good Luck with it.
TheGTIjetguy
Member
Your rotary valve clearance/ smoothness is important for reliable starting. If you didn’t do the clearance check before you disassembled it I would recommend temp installing the valve and cover without the o ring and doing that with the service manual procedure. That will at least tell you if you can consider reusing them.
I got the PTO off. I think everything I read scared me into taking all precautions. I had the engine up on end with PB blaster soaking overnight. then heated it up good with a torch. I saw on a video how someone used their truck as a vise so I did the same and used a 4' cheater bar and much to my surprise it popped right off. I do not see any visible damage to the inside of the case so I'm going to order parts and get everything cleaned up while I wait. I will do a partial reassembly and check the rotary valve against the shop manual spec to see if I can reuse it. thanks for all the advice, I'll have more updates and probably questions as I begin the rebuild.
Attachments
the rotary valve clearance is questionable. the PTO side I could get a .014 shim in but only with a little effort. the other side I couldn't get it in at all. at this point I'm going to use it and plan to send my RV cover out during the winter for a resurface. I have not found any information on replacing the RV shaft seal. I see how to remove it but do I need any special tools to disassembly it? the shop manual doesn't show much either. I also rechecked the oil pump and with my drill on high speed it was dripping out oil from each line. Now I'm wondering why the connecting rod bearing failed. Is there anything else I should be checking? I assume it was due to lack of lubrication.
- Status
