Engine installation question (717)

[bernie321]

Is it easy to install the engine with the use of the SEADOO ALIGNMENT TOOL. I have heard it both ways. Would like to hear some feedback on what experienced folks (meaning those who have physically pulled and replaced the entire - 717).

I have removed almost everything short of waterlines and vent lines of my 1998 GTI. The engine I had rebuilt through SES, great looking work and very quick turnaround time. I just put back in yesterday, and now just not to comfortable tightening up bolts until I hear some feedback.

Many thanks,

 

[Dr Honda]

What kind of feed back do you need? You really didn't as any questions other than about the alignment tool. But to answer the one question above... yes... it's easy to use the tool. Put everything together loose, and get it close. Then add shims to get it to slide in and out smooth.

 

[bernie321]

I guess I had a two part question only asking one part.

I am hearing there are work arounds for NOT using the alignment tool. I have a short window to get my rebuild back in my GTI before we leave for the lake and won't get an alignment tool in time.

2nd part of my question...any helpful hints on installing without tool?

I completely understand the use of the tool and need to have a straight and aligned shaft for fear of vibration or worse. I reviewed so many posts that the tool was not really necessary, but with little detail as to how to " work around " without causing damage.

Feedback on successful ways not using this tool?

 

[Dr Honda]

Wellllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll.....................................


This may come back to bite me in the butt... but... yes, you can do it without a tool. BUT... this is assuming that you didn't remove/loose the shims in the pump, and you rebuilt the engine that came out of it. If you didn't mark your shims, and/or you did a "Swap" engine (like SBT does) then you really need the tool.

In my shop... I do engines without the tool all the time. You can sometimes "Feel" center by rocking things back and forth. But, I have years of seadoo experience, AND... I have the tool sitting in my shop for when I don't like what I am feeling.


Basically, the driveshaft needs to be as straight as possible. BUT, the design will allow for a slight miss alignment. BUT... the more off center you are... the faster the parts will wear. So, if you don't know exactly what you are looking for... the parts may spin smooth, but you could wear out the splines on the first ride, if they are far enough out. OR... you could just bend the driveshaft. (and that can get ugly if it beats the hull, or breaks the pump)



My "OFFICIAL" stance is to use the tool for your fist few engines. After that... your method may vary.

 

[Dr Honda]

One last thing......


If you decide to just try to center it up, without a tool... then after you tighten all the bolts... try to turn the engine/drive over by hand. If it's not perfectly smooth... it's out far enough to cause damage.

A lot of times, it will feel good, until the bolts get tight.

(do this with the sparkplugs out)

 

[bernie321]

What I was thinking.

I am very mechanically inclined, and more so than those who say they are, but I really like to hear from others.

However, my greatest concern is based off one of your concerns as well due to how bad my engine blew. It snapped a rod, and it CUT through all three sides of the crankcase, the oil pump, and one of the cylinder heads. I had to buy a core crankcase, and then the engine was rebuilt from there with everything else. But by the required parts necessary to give me a solid rebuildable core, it is now not the identical engine being put back in the ski.

 

[Dr Honda]

......................... it is now not the identical engine being put back in the ski.

Then there is a high probability that it won't align with the same shims.

Look.... it's your ski, so do what you want. If you are good with a wrench, then give it a go... knowing that you could damage things. If you can get it together, and things visually look straight, and it turns smooth... go run the weekend (vacation) on it. If it doesn't give out... then you can check the alignment when you get back.

BUT... if you do it that way... make sure to have all the splines coated very well in a good SYNTHETIC waterproof grease. (I've been using "Green Grease" at my shop, and it stays in the parts, even when wet)