electronic or hydraulic reverse gates

[Andy4k6]

Hi,

I have been thinking about the reverse mech on my speedster.

As it stands I have repaired the reverse cables and I'm hoping they will work well as they new seem nice and free.

knowing the reverse system can be troublesome and my with my boat not going to getting much use I thought about how much better it would be if I did away with the cables and replaced them with some linear actuators or possibly a hydraulic system, has anyone ever done this or have any thoughts or suggestions?

Andy

 

[howie099]

I think the down fall in the design is actually the bucket shape. The new ones work better than the old ones. The cables are like 100 so I think doing something else is just a waste of money.

 

[Andy4k6]

You may be correct with that, I was hoping to try and do it reasonably cheap perhaps with used parts etc.

My only concern is buying new cables all the time due to lack of use when I could do a permanent fix with another system.

Andy

 

[howie099]

I guess some sort of servo motor maybe to do it. I think the cable will win. Mine was like 15 years old before it broke so that is a good life span.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Depending on if salt or fresh water they can last from 10 to 15 years or much more.

On a reverse bucket application I'd prefer the cable setup due to simplicity of three distinct detent positions (FWD/"Neutral"/REV) and that can be complicated to implement using a linear actuator or hydraulic cylinder?

Once they stiffen, new cables are money wisely spent. IMO!

Otherwise, in the case of a jet pump place diverter or rudder type steering (propeller boats), hydraulic is pretty cool and more often modern boat steering are being rigged that way.

 

[Andy4k6]

If they are as reliable as you say I will refit the original and now lubricated cables back to my boat and see how they get on.

I have new seals for them and hopefully they will offer a few years good service.

Many thanks

Andy

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I'll repeat, new cables are money well spent, re-lubricated original cables rarely last much time before they begin binding again, assuming the cable is the cause of binding.

I suspect strongly, the aluminum latching lever located on the reverse bucket is binding though, making it difficult to disengage the reverse bucket from the FWD position when necessary.

The original seadoo aluminum sprung-detent type bucket latch-levers tend to wear at the hook location, making departure from FWD position difficult. I can imagine the initial diagnosis might blame a stiff cable when in fact the problem is caused by the bucket-mounted latch lever being worn.

FWIW, There's a replacement repair kit available to replace the original soft aluminum piece with an updated stainless version.