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Electrical Problems

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10forty2

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Out on the water yesterday. Cranked great at the dock and ran great for about 45 minutes. Moored up for several hours on a shoreline to hang out with friends. Battery switch on while sitting, but radio not playing and sump pump disconnected due to previous owner warning that the float switch was bad and needed replacing....read as constant drain on battery. When time to leave, the blower comes on normally, I get the normal beeps, try to start the port engine and it bumps, but will not turn over. Starboard engine cranks reluctantly and we got underway with one engine hoping that if the battery is discharged the starboard engine would charge it enough to crank the port engine. No dice..... after about 5 minutes underway with starboard engine only, the voltage light on the dash came on and the starboard engine quit. Got a tow to the dock from a friend that was passing by. Battery is about 3 years old. Previous owner had replaced the port side voltage regulator due to malfunction. I have read about a fuse/fuse holder that is known to give problems between the voltage regulators and the starter solenoids, but can't readily find it to check. Will be replacing battery in case it's just bad and won't take a full charge. Other ideas??? Really don't want to think about replacing the stator, but I guess I will be testing that for shorts as well.

Your experienced assistance is appreciated!!
 
First thing I would check is to make sure none of the engines ingested water during your tow. Depending on the speed and length of the tow it is possible for the engines to fill with water if the exhaust cooling hose is not clamped during the tow. If it was a short tow at slow speed then you are probably fine, but would not hurt to take the plugs out and spin the engine over a few times just to be certain, check the oil, if there is any water, the longer it sits the worse things will be.

As for the voltage situation it could be as simple as a bad battery but I would also go through and check all your cables especially the grounds. Take a good look at the ends and make sure none are corroded, very common problem. You already mentioned checking all fuses as there are several hidden in the engine compartment. The starter solenoid can be checked by jumping the terminals, if it goes when you do that then you found the problem. The neutral safety switch can also cause problems sometimes, but if one engine started and not the other it is not likely this issue.

Before you start in-depth troubleshooting with the stator do some simple battery checks with a voltage meter. See what kind of voltage drop you get during startup and what type of voltage you have once the engine(s) are running. Usually a quick way to determine if you might have a bad battery and/or charging problems.

This is what I would start with, and if nothing comes to light then you can start digging deeper. Electrical gremlins like this can be a real pain.
 
Thanks Devonte007! It was a relatively short tow, maybe 30 minutes under tow, and at idle speed for the pontoon boat pulling us. I don't think I have water in the engine itself, although there was water in the bilge area that ran out when I pulled the plug at the dock.....no more water than normally comes out of the bilge area when I unscrew the plug after a day on the lake. The oil on the sticks look like oil and not a muddy milkshake, but I am going to have the oil changed ASAP just to be sure.

I dug into the problem, starting with the most simple diagnosis...replacing the battery. Turns out it was 5 years old, so I figured even if it WOULD take a charge, it was on its way out anyway. I then checked every connection for tightness....all good. Then I went to the fuses. As I referenced, in searching for solutions I saw a post on Green Hulk about a green 30amp fuse and inline fuse holder that gives problems. It's in the charging circuit apparently. I also saw reference to that same fuse in the Owner's Manual as a place to check if the battery is in constant discharge. So, I found the fuses, (best access is to remove the rear seat cushions and then remove the plastic buckets by removing the two slot-head, stainless screws) and one by one I checked each of them...until I came to a green 30amp fuse and low and behold...it was melted inside of the fuse holder. I'll try to post pics later. I don't think I've ever seen a fuse melted like that one was. It had apparently take some serious internal heat and melted before blowing. The fuse holder was in pretty bad shape inside too...no indication of anything wrong on the outside, so if anyone is reading this with a similar problem, open the holders up to reveal and test the fuses inside! So, off I go to the local Auto Zone and purchase a new 30amp fuse, and a new water-tight 30amp fuse holder with water-tight butt connectors to replace the one that was destroyed. Got it all buttoned up, put the voltmeter on the battery and was initially reading 14.2VDC. Turned on the battery switch and no change. Plugged up the lanyard, the voltage dropped to 13VDC, got the regular beeps and I cranked the starboard engine and revved up to around 5K rpms....the voltage continued to decrease slightly.....cranked the port engine and the voltage came up and remained at 13.5VDC. All that was within about 30 seconds before shutting everything down. I didn't have a flush hose connected, so I didn't want to overheat anything. A little water shot out the rear pumps when the engines cranked, but barely enough to notice and not even enough to run off the driveway. They seemed to run very smoothly in that short time.

Since there showed a discharge when just the starboard engine was running but charging with both engines running, is there still something wrong here? Is the regulator/rectifier on the starboard engine shot? I did not have time to go through the process to check that. I guess I'll have to get in a little deeper.
 
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Excellent troubleshooting, I think you narrowed it down. Based on your write-up, I too would focus on the voltage regulator. I've never had a problem with mine so can't give you any advise here, you'll need to consult the shop manual for proper troubleshooting procedures on the rectifier. On the plus side, you have 2 engines and 2 of everything, so you could swap parts around to test; definitely makes things a bit easier.

I'm sure i have read posts before about the rectifiers, so you may want to search the forum for threads about this. Might find some helpful tips. You are obviously not the only person who has had this problem.

Good luck...
 
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