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Dual Batteries

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pwgsx

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I am wanting to run 2 batteries, I ordered the 1, 2 or 1&2 switch but want to make sure I am hooking them up right. Sorry for the rough sketch but is this correct? Can I ground the new battery to the 1st battery or do I need to ground it to the engine? This is on a Speedster 200.

I plan to use battery 1 to start and run the basic stereo I have now and have battery 2 only for the amp that I turn on with the remote wire to run a sub and tower speakers. So in theory I can be driving around using bat 1 and it being charged by the engine and battery 2 running the amp and not connected to anything. I will charge it with a charger when I get home. If battery 1 dies for some reason I can use the switch to battery 2 in a emergency to try and start the boat- that's the only reason it is connected to the switch. Hope that makes sense. lol
 

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You already have a ground to the engine to one of the batteries so you can just run a cable between grounds. There is no need to run all the way back to the engine. Also...since you already have everything that you need with the switch. Why don't you move the charging wire to the common post on the switch and then it will charge whatever battery you have the switch set to or both if you have it set to combine?

That is what I ended up doing on my Speedster 150 and it works perfectly.
 
I want to do the same thing and have the same boat as you PWGSX. Please post pictures when you are finished. I am curious to where you wind up mounting it. Also, what type of battery you going to add? I just bought a new "cranking" battery for my main one, but I think the second one will be a "deep cycle" as I want to use it only when anchored to run my stereo (without amp).
 
Will do. I plan to use a deep cycle for the subs and beach radio. I plan to mount it on the other side in the same area as the factory battery but have to move the small fuse box towards the front a few inches. It shouldn't be a big deal using 2 rivets to hold the bracket. I got the battery tray already and using a blob of epoxy and 4 s.s. short screws.
 
I put one of these isolators on my boat and thinking about doing the same on my Seadoo. Eliminates any issues of having to remember to move the selector on the switch. Hook your radio, amp and whatever else to the second battery and this will charge both (starting battery first and switch over to second battery charging) and only allow the second battery to discharge for your other connections...

http://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20090-Battery-Doctor-Isolator/dp/B004QCDE9M
 
You really need to think about having an battery isolator. If you don't, you get what's called battling battery syndrome. The stronger battery will discharge into the weaker one. Then that battery will be stronger. It will reverse and discharge into the other. Some people just use a battery switch. One battery runs the show the other is disconnected. This causes charging issues because only the switched on battery gets input from the charging system. Turn both on when at full throttle and they both get charged. Most alternators / generators only put out 1/3 of their rating at idle or off a bit. How many people really run full out all the time?
 
Im late to this party but here is what i did. I used the same switch as you. I ran the ground from battery 1 to battery 1. Then each battery is wired to the switch..as someone else mentioned, the charging wire is hooked to the common post. So it is charging whichever battery you currently have it set to. I wouldnt worry about the battery "battling" each other. It is only discharging 1 of the 2 unless you have it set to both.l..which i rarely do.

As far as what battery...I cant justify the 300 bucks for an optima. I use plain ol wal mart marine batteries. Every ready maxx series...it was like 80 bucks and comes with a 3 year free replacement. The way i see it, i can buy 4 of them with a 3 year life span each for the cost of 1 optima....i doubt that optima will last 12 years. I did the same thing on my last boat and it was still going strong after 4 years when i sold it.
 
Deep cycle batteries are good for electronics and what not. Not the best for starting and running the engine.
For those interested in doing the dual-battery thing, you will want one deep cell and one that is not.
 
The battling battery happens when they are just sitting with no charging input. If they are not disconnected from each other it happens.
 
I have a related question.

The fuse box on the port side between the engine and current battery in my 06 Utopia SE is loose. Is it safe to drill out and repop some new rivets, possible adding some marinetex or jbweld to the holes if they're too big and redrilling them? I have to imagine it's a long way to the bottom hull from there.
 
You should be good, The hull is double walled. Take a look at surrounding items just to be sure. I wouldn't even fill the holes, just go one size up on the rivet or move the box 1/2 inch.
 
The battling battery happens when they are just sitting with no charging input. If they are not disconnected from each other it happens.

That is what is nice about the combo switch..the batteries are never hooked together. The only time they are ever hooked together is when you turn it to both when running. During storage, they are both cut off bye the switch.
 
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