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Draining supercharged 215

vegaschef364

New Member
I have a 2010 GTX iS 215 supercharged that went underwater freshwater for about 6 hours the other day. I have it out, drained it, sucked the water out of the valves, out of the dipstick, and I think from any hose that could have had it in there. From the pics does it look like I am missing any? I have 4 qts of oil back in there, at this point do I turn it over, or do I reconnect the hoses first? It does turn over, when I got it out I took out the plugs and spun it a couple times to shoot out the water. Also for cleaning it, do I just hook everything back up and spray? Can I use degreaser?

P.S. I have been reading that the supercharger and intercooler have to be removed and drained, can I get to that water with a flexible tube? Slide it in and suck the water out that way? And then do the 3-4 oil changes, no filter or plugs needed until the end, then run it to burn off any remaining moisture? Sound right or am I missing something? Thanks
 

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I don’t know how you drained water out of the valves or cylinders, but I suggest you use a wet/dry shop vacuum on each cylinder, turning the engine over for 10 seconds on each cylinder, and then doing them all over again a couple more times to get water out of the intake as well, or you will just suck water back in to the engine. I would think the shop vac trick would work to pull water out of the supercharger and intercooler too, but I have not personally done it before, so you want to be confident. You may want to read my post from Feb/March 2021…

This is not textbook shop manual recommendations, but the shop vac worked great for my naturally aspirated Seadoo recovery, and came from a very experienced watercraft mechanic. He has used the shop vac many times, and it worked for me. The water boil out procedure took me about 2 hours of idling around the boat ramp with the oil cap off, but was also successful. I didn’t accelerate at all. I think you will see the milky oil in the filler tube dissipate after an hour or so, and was gone by the second hour. I changed the oil and filter after the boil out and have put many hours on my ski since. So I guess I did 2 oil changes - one to get the water and oil out and to do the boil out procedure with new oil, and then an oil change to get fresh oil back in and ride normally again. Not sure you need more oil changes if you are thorough with getting everything out the first time and boiling out what water residue is left.

Best wishes to you, and hope you can save your Seadoo - and resolve whatever caused it to sink!
 
Thank you for the tips, I was using a manual pump with a long 1/4 vinyl tube. I put it down the oil dipstick and intake hoses and anywhere else I found water. I had seen people using the shopvac so I will give that a try. Do you have a link to your post?
 
The intake manifold and muffler are full of water and need to be drained before doing anything else, the procedure for sunken ski is outlined in the service manual for your ski, the 3 to 4 oil changes is not a part of that procedure. The supercharger inspection is. Download a service manual.
 
Link below. My ski was not fully submerged, not supercharged, just water ingested. But have probably put 60+ hours on it in the past three years and runs as good as ever. But definitely look at the shop manual for the official process. Hope you can save your ski and electronics are all good.

Thread 'Compression test GTI SE 155 - water ingestion'
Compression test GTI SE 155 - water ingestion
 
That was a helpful read, thank you. So, I did turn it over a couple times while in the water but it never started and only cranked it for a couple of seconds. It lights up fine and turns over fine. Instead of removing the intake manifold I just loosened it and stuck a 1/4" vinyl tube in there and sucked out all the water with a pump. Also removed the big plastic box at the back where the exhaust is, it was dry, the hose had a little water in it, and the muffler was about full, pumped that out, pulled the air box and hoses to the supercharger/intake manifold. I have done a couple oil changes held it at full throttle and cranked it for 5 seconds between each one and pumping the oil/water out from the dipstick tube. It is coming out clear oil now.
When removing the hose from the supercharger to the intake, I started with the intake side first, as I went to start on the supercharger side it just fell. It had a clamp on it, but the clamp was loose and the hose wasn't even attached to the supercharger I had just gotten it back from the mechanic the day before to do the supercharger rebuild and get it ready for summer. He said he took it out on the lake and it was fine, so either he was lying about that, or didn't check it for leaks when he was done. I will admit, I was working on the IBR last year and had pulled that grate that sits above the jet pump off and forgot to put it back on, so those 6 screw holes were open under water when it was sitting. I don't have a lift for it yet so I tie it up in our slip, I am only here at the lake for 3 weeks and it has worked in the past, but sitting there with those holes exposed I'm sure was part of it.
The mechanic just happened to be at our condo working on someone else's ski when it went under, and he did help me get it out, as we were doing that he noticed that the grate wasn't there and swore that it had to have fallen off at some point because he knows he saw it there. But it wasn't. So I know I am partly to blame for this, I am also new to owning a waverunner, and have never been on anything as fancy as what I have now, which is why I paid someone to get it ready for me. I forgot about the grate, but he is the expert, and took my money and told me it was ready to go, and not only overlooked a very important part on the outside leaving 6 holes under water, but he also did not get the hose on the supercharger correctly.
Luckily the guy in the slip next to me had a lift for his boat, long skinny boat so the bunks were close enough together that my ski sat on it, he had gone out for the evening and told me I could use it if I needed. I got it up there, raised it, drained it, put the 6 screws back in, and by that time he was back and needed to put his boat back on. So I floated my ski back over to our slip, tied it up really tight and went to bed. It was after midnight at that point, I had no way of getting it to a ramp or out of the water so I crossed my fingers. Woke up the next day and the ropes were the only thing holding it from going under, or bobbing. Called the tow boat and $1,200 later had my ski on the trailer.
So, questions, and sorry for the long post, just a lot to unravel here. I did stick the vinyl tube in the supercharger and there didn't seem to be any water in it. I had just gotten it back from the mechanic that did the rebuild, but honestly now not sure if I trust his work on that. I am very comfortable with a wrench, do my own work on my boat 87 Cobalt 18 open bow, and my car. But I have never worked on a supercharger. I have watched some videos and it seems to be easy enough to take off. I have the shop manual and it says if there is water in the oil or the supercharger hose to take it apart and replace the slip clutch needle bearings and shaft ball bearings. Is that something I can do with basic tools? What should I look for to check that the rebuild was done? Would the disconnected hose have anything to do with the ski sinking? Anything else I am missing? Thanks again for all the help.
 
Wow, that is quite a story. Sorry to hear all of this… I do not have experience with superchargers, so I would have difficulty giving good direction on a rebuild or repair there.

I wanted to share my water ingested issue, based on my success and direction a very experienced Seadoo mechanic gave me - that was a simple workaround to the more involved process in the service manual. It was to use a good wet/dry shop vac on each cylinder multiple times, until all water is sucked out. That theoretically mimics the engine running and sucking air would clear out water from the air box intake at the front of the ski, thru the intercooler and supercharger, throttle body, intake, and into the cylinder. Likely sucks a little in from the exhaust side too, but you have drained the exhaust and exhaust pressure should push any remainder out when you start the engine.

With water out of your crankcase, which you seem confident you have accomplished, you can add fresh oil and then do the boil out procedure - I idled for 2 hours with the oil cap off. There is still residual moisture in the engine that you don’t see from an oil change that has to boil out. Getting the engine hot will also evaporate other water in your intake or supercharger. You will then have to change your oil again and then you are likely ready to ride and diagnose or assess any other repairs or issues that may be needed with the supercharger or other items. Some would suggest another oil change after running a bit, but I didn’t do another. Salt water had damaged my plugs and injectors, so I had to replace them for best performance. I had no other isssues, fortunately. Just put 2+ more hours on the old 2007 GTI SE 155 300 hour ski Monday night. I hope you have similar good luck and hope this helps you! I am sure others have lots of good suggestions, but this was successful in my case.
 
Thank you so much for the advice, I did pull the sc, pics below, from what I can see it looks good, really don't want to open it up if I don't have to. But other than that I think I am ready to put it in and find out what was leaking. I am curious about the exhaust pressure part of it though. With the hole in the back jet pump area for the exhaust that is underwater, and as you mentioned the exhaust pressure would push any out when I start it, so that pressure keeps water from coming in and flooding the ski, but what about when it is turned off, is that pressure still holding the water back? Is it possible that with the hose from the sc to the intake not being connected that there wasn't enough pressure to hold the water back? And I did wipe it down after I took the pics, just thought it would be good to show it exactly as it came out, and when I pulled it and tipped it upside down, maybe a Tbs. of watery oil came out. 20240612_172438-min.jpg20240612_172450-min.jpg20240612_172636-min.jpg
 
Ok, so I figured out the general area where the leak is. Drivers side rear if it were a car, not sure how you describe it on a wr. Back where the IBR motor is. When I dropped it in a couple weeks ago the IBR light turned on just as I was pulling it in the slip.
 
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