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double battery install
- Thread starter spunkyone
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Battery selector....
You'll need to get a battery isolation switch and mount it in the engine compartment. You'll tie it in along with your two batteries. When you are running the motor, you'll have the selector set for the A and B battery (All). When you are at anchor, enjoying the music, you'll set the selector to only the A battery. This way, if your music drains the battery, you'll have a fully charged battery to start the boat. When you get the motor started, turn the battery selector switch back to "All".
You can find this switch, normally red in color, at any West Marine or Boats U.S. store. You may even find it at some Walmart stores. But with Walmart being seasonal, you may not find it this time of year.:cheers:
You'll need to get a battery isolation switch and mount it in the engine compartment. You'll tie it in along with your two batteries. When you are running the motor, you'll have the selector set for the A and B battery (All). When you are at anchor, enjoying the music, you'll set the selector to only the A battery. This way, if your music drains the battery, you'll have a fully charged battery to start the boat. When you get the motor started, turn the battery selector switch back to "All".
You can find this switch, normally red in color, at any West Marine or Boats U.S. store. You may even find it at some Walmart stores. But with Walmart being seasonal, you may not find it this time of year.:cheers:
Power source....
The magneto of the 90's model 787cc has an output of 180 watts at 6000 rpm or 5 amps at 2000 rpm.
The way you can look at this equation is that, .......your not setting the charging system up to charge a dead battery. When you flip the switch to "ALL", you've exposed one charged and one drained battery. So it's like you've got a 50% battery capacity. It should be fine........:cheers:
The magneto of the 90's model 787cc has an output of 180 watts at 6000 rpm or 5 amps at 2000 rpm.
The way you can look at this equation is that, .......your not setting the charging system up to charge a dead battery. When you flip the switch to "ALL", you've exposed one charged and one drained battery. So it's like you've got a 50% battery capacity. It should be fine........:cheers:
Battery selector switch?....
When you purchase this switch from a marine supply store, you'll get the instructions on how to set it up.
Depending on which type you get, they normally have one set of terminals that connect your engines system to the output, then you'll connect your battery wire to one "A" selector and the other battery your going to install, connects to the "B" side.
There is also switches that are automatic. You can use an isolation switch type system that will determine which battery needs the charge and switch the charging system as necessary. Here is a link I found that is laid out well, easy to understand in lamens terms http://www.boatfix.com/how/Ele2.html
When you purchase this switch from a marine supply store, you'll get the instructions on how to set it up.
Depending on which type you get, they normally have one set of terminals that connect your engines system to the output, then you'll connect your battery wire to one "A" selector and the other battery your going to install, connects to the "B" side.
There is also switches that are automatic. You can use an isolation switch type system that will determine which battery needs the charge and switch the charging system as necessary. Here is a link I found that is laid out well, easy to understand in lamens terms http://www.boatfix.com/how/Ele2.html
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Link?.....
Sorry, I saw that when I pasted, the link captured my (.) at the end of my sentence, which made it a non usable link.
Try it now, I checked it and it worked fine........:cheers:
Sorry, I saw that when I pasted, the link captured my (.) at the end of my sentence, which made it a non usable link.
Try it now, I checked it and it worked fine........:cheers:
Isolater verses switch....?
It depends on how you set it up. If you looked at the website we are talking about, then you read on how the installed isolater works with a selector switch to isolate the charged battery so the battery with the lowest charge receives power first. Here's an excerpt from the link:
Installation of an isolator automatically isolates each battery, lower charged battery will automatically be charged first. Two different size batteries can be used, larger for ship services, smaller for engine starting. Switch selects usage, master disconnect, "power" parallel function.
The link also gives you a drawing to lay it out for yourself if you wanted to install with two, three or up to five batteries...........:cheers:
It depends on how you set it up. If you looked at the website we are talking about, then you read on how the installed isolater works with a selector switch to isolate the charged battery so the battery with the lowest charge receives power first. Here's an excerpt from the link:
Installation of an isolator automatically isolates each battery, lower charged battery will automatically be charged first. Two different size batteries can be used, larger for ship services, smaller for engine starting. Switch selects usage, master disconnect, "power" parallel function.
The link also gives you a drawing to lay it out for yourself if you wanted to install with two, three or up to five batteries...........:cheers:
JUST-IN-TIME
New Member
run a ACR not an isolator!!
you will get voltage drop in an isloater
blue seas sell
you will get voltage drop in an isloater
blue seas sell
Automatic Charging Relay....
The ACR is a nice setup, if your willing to pay anywhere from $100 to upwards of over $200 bucks....
I personally think it's overkill in the smaller, older model boats with the 787 or 717. That's just my opinion.cheers:
The ACR is a nice setup, if your willing to pay anywhere from $100 to upwards of over $200 bucks....
I personally think it's overkill in the smaller, older model boats with the 787 or 717. That's just my opinion.cheers:
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spunkyone
New Member
fair price
WoW look at the head on that guy I'll never drink yager again . no i will just buy a good one and im looking into one of those gel batteries customkarl is talking about any clue were to find one oh yeah the stereo is going into that front tub in the gti looking good so far clear lexan top so you can see the amp and colorfuf wiring. :drool5::lols:
WoW look at the head on that guy I'll never drink yager again . no i will just buy a good one and im looking into one of those gel batteries customkarl is talking about any clue were to find one oh yeah the stereo is going into that front tub in the gti looking good so far clear lexan top so you can see the amp and colorfuf wiring. :drool5::lols:
I recommend a AGM (Advanced Glass Matt) Battery. It is better than a Gel Cell and it won't crack and cause problems when it get hot, like the Gel Cell. The AGM is the newest thing on the market that replaces the Gel Cell. The model # is YTX20H-BI, made by Interstate batteries. This battery has a 310amp Cold Cranking power, that is the highest available. It won't let you down, when you need starting power. This battery retails for $87.95.
Karl
Karl
Great thead...I have been tossing the same idea around in my head the past couple months:cheers:
One isolator should do what you need. When you purchase it, ask the salesperson/ ordertaker what they suggest you need to do a perfered install. Most companies that sell them will have a good idea of what is needed to work with what you have.( wire length ,connertors ect)
Karl
Karl
Battery isolater...?
Yeah, the automatic battery isolater switch is something you buy alone. It's not something you have to have though. You can set up with just a battery selector switch. When your at stop and want to play your stereo, then you'll select the "B" switch (if this is the battery you have dedicated to your accessories). When your ready to get back underway, you can simply turn to the "A" selector, then start the motor. Once the motor is running, you can turn your selector to "B" and it will charge that battery while your skiing or whatever. Then, when it's charged, you can put it back to "ALL". Or, you can just run with a "B" battery and use it for your stereo. When you want to start the engine, you can swap to the "A" just for starting.
It's more like a way to have a back up battery in case the other dies out on you un-expectedly. If you'd like to look further into adding the isolater, you'll can find one for about $50 bucks..........heres a link to another site that has them available.......... http://www.ase-supply.com/category_s/153.htm
Yeah, the automatic battery isolater switch is something you buy alone. It's not something you have to have though. You can set up with just a battery selector switch. When your at stop and want to play your stereo, then you'll select the "B" switch (if this is the battery you have dedicated to your accessories). When your ready to get back underway, you can simply turn to the "A" selector, then start the motor. Once the motor is running, you can turn your selector to "B" and it will charge that battery while your skiing or whatever. Then, when it's charged, you can put it back to "ALL". Or, you can just run with a "B" battery and use it for your stereo. When you want to start the engine, you can swap to the "A" just for starting.
It's more like a way to have a back up battery in case the other dies out on you un-expectedly. If you'd like to look further into adding the isolater, you'll can find one for about $50 bucks..........heres a link to another site that has them available.......... http://www.ase-supply.com/category_s/153.htm
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Can you charge both while running, or just one at a time?
Whever the switch position is, is what charges...1...2...or all batteries.
Karl
Karl
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