Do I need to use a crank locking tool to take the head off

[russ22]

Do I need to use a crank locking tool to take the head off
Cant I just put the motor on Cylinder No 1 on TDC compression stroke and then use the cam locking tool
The only place I can get a crank locking tool is from the other side of Australia which will take over a week to receive

Once I take the head off I will need to turn the motor over to check the bores so the motor will get moved anyway

I have attached photos off the drive shaft that was in the 2009 wake jet ski with this motor
The floating ring looks like it has to unscrew?
It cant push back like the manual says because the plastic cover stops it
This is very different to the one in the manual both 2008 and 2015 and all the videos on you tube
Even the new shaft don't show the drive shaft with a plastic cover

Do you think this has been running out of line because of the damage to the cover or is that normal

 

[Rikky001]

You don't need to lock the crankshaft to take the head of, it is is just a good practice to do it.
Only when you assemble and set the timing you need the camshaft and crankshaft locked.

Not sure why you take the head of? These days endoscopes are very cheap, if you just want to have a look in the bores, this will do the trick for 50 USD. Taking of the head yourself will still cost you a head gasket, head and rocker shaft bolts.

Have a look here

 

[Chester]

No need to turn it to any position or lock it in place during disassembly.

Chester

 

[russ22]

You don't need to lock the crankshaft to take the head of, it is is just a good practice to do it.
Only when you assemble and set the timing you need the camshaft and crankshaft locked.

Not sure why you take the head of? These days endoscopes are very cheap, if you just want to have a look in the bores, this will do the trick for 50 USD. Taking of the head yourself will still cost you a head gasket, head and rocker shaft bolts.

Have a look here

I used an endoscopes to look in side the bore one that attaches to my I phone
I use it to inspect welds inside pipe but it did not work very well inside the bore it was either to dark or when I turned up the light it reflected off the oil in the bore
What I thought were grains of sand turned out to beads off oil as the pistons and bore were coved in oil once I took the head off

I think the oil came from the engine when I was turning it over doing a compression test I forgot to put the spark plug tubes back in so I think the oil from the cam and rockers ran down the plug hole into the bores
on No 2 bore there was a 10mm deep pool of oil on top of the piston

 

[Rikky001]

Good that you did not try to start it like that. At least you know why.
My endoscope gives a much clearer picture.

 

[russ22]

Good that you did not try to start it like that. At least you know why.
My endoscope gives a much clearer picture.

This is what I found once I removed the head all bores coved in oil as I said before I am not sure where the oil came from

There is no carbon build up at all the bores don't look worn

 

[ski-d00]

Hard to tell from those pics. If the cylinder walls are completely smooth so that you can't feel anything with your fingernail, then they are most likely fine. Carbon build up on the piston is completely normal.

Time to check the valves for proper seating.

 

[russ22]

I have cleaned up all the oil in the bores
There does seem to ne a lot off rust on the bores so maybe it did sink and someone poor all this oil down the bores that would explain why there was so much oil in them see photo

I will take the head to get the valves tested on Monday
I sprayed DW40 into each valve and left them soak over night
none off the valves leaked.

Also found a drawing for drive shaft alignment tool could someone tell me if measurements are correct and give me the missing measurements to suit sea do ski GTX IS 2015
See drawings att
Thanks

 

[russ22]

Which is the correct tool to use for drive shaft alignment for seadoo GTX LTD 260 IS 2015
All the manuals says to use the plate that is the same for all skis SBT Code 80-103 B but SBT web site say that for IS models I need 80-103IS see attached
I have checked both seadoo 2015 & 2016 service manuals and they don't show this type of tool
does anyone know

 

[mikidymac]

Not sure on the tool but those cylinders look toasted. I don’t think you will ever get a good ring seal with that much rust damage.

 

[russ22]

I had the head and valves tested they don't leak I was told that the head was in good condition so it must be the bore or rings that is causing the low compression

 

[ski-d00]

Yes, the cylinders have surface rust so that will cause the lower compression. Use a scotch brite pad and clean up the rust in the cylinders. The key is to get the cylinders smooth and as long as the rust is not deep it will be fine. Staining and minor pits are not a problem. Once the engine is run for a little while, the compression will come back up and the rings will reseat.

For the alignment plate, it isn't that simple. The center needs to have a long bushing, not just a hole. The alignment is done when the rod is put through the bushing mounted to the plate and then mates up with the motor. Without the long bearing surface of the bushing, you won't be able to align the motor.