Detailing 98' Sea Doos?

[JeepDoo]

My dad called me up and wants me to detail our 98' sea doos. He wants me to use his power buffer and get the scratches off etc. Obviously i want them to shine in the end too.
From what i have read on other threads, i should start with some sort of 3M wax and then maybe finish it off with somethign else.

Any ideas on what to do. Ive never even used a power buffer before and im not sure my dad has either. But im sure i can figure it out.

One more question, you put the wax on, then use the buffer to remove it correct? Or is there a more complicated process when using a power buffer.

And no this is not an april fools thread, i really am a noob at this stuff.

Any suggestions on methods/brands to use would be great, THANKS

 

[kustomkarl]

If you have never used a power buffer, don't experiment on the seadoo. If you just want to remove the scratches use a little elbow grease and hand rub the scratches out. Then use a "Power Waxer " to luster the finish. A "Power Waxer" is used in removing the wax in a less aggressive way. Read the directions that comes with a waxer and you won't have a chance of burning the surface. A "Power Buffer" is used mainly on painted surfaces in a circularly motion, and if you haven't used one before can and will burn the finish if it is too fast a speed in the wrong angle to the surface and allowed to over heat. Power buffing takes skill to use properly that you only can obtain from experience. I learned about 33 years ago on an old car with lots of oxidized paint... After about 3 hours of practice and helpful guidance from an experienced painter I got the hang of it. I have been a certified auto re finisher for PPG for close to 33 years. Get a power waxer, some spare bonnets for it, and use Teflon wax as a topcoat. It will look great and last a long time.
I own a custom vehicle here in Florida, and Have been in the custom business since 1986.

Karl

 

[DryDocked]

Karl is 100% right! I am a hot rod builder and own seven show cars personally, and can tell you that if you are a novice detailer or less please do not use a high speed polisher. Cars are easy to burn through the paint as it is, but PWCs have very complex compound curves that is just itchin' for a polisher to eat it up, SeaDoo boats are almost as curvy as well. As an extra step, catch a bottle of detail spray and a claybar. It will do wonders removing surface oxidation. Put a little mineral oil (found in the laxatives section of your local drug store) on the rubber and work it in. Be sure not to neglect the lower part of the hull too. Don't use Armorall or any other "slick" products on parts that you contact such as the grips, footbeds, or seat, as it can cause a hairy situation when you take it out next. I personally recommend Pennacle products, but they are insanely expensive. If you are not interested in spending an arm and a leg, use Meguiar's... good stuff! I personally stay away from anything with silicon in it, but the fact that I am a custom painter has a lot to do with that.

Also, be careful not to put anything on the lanyard post. I am sure a little metal polish would be fine, but I wouldn't take any chances. Good luck!

Hey Karl, what kind of car do you have?

 

[kustomkarl]

My everyday drive is a 1988 Dodge Dakota 4x4 long bed, featured in the "1996 LUND" Calender. It has 47,000 original miles on it since I bought it new in the year. House of Kolors paint of course over PPG base color. I also own a 2006 Dodge Charger R/T, HEMI powered, with 9,000 Miles on it. Done a few small tricks under the hood, exhaust, added some cosmetics and a concealed radar detector from Escort,cause I'm a dealer...Lots of fun at 165mph, thanks to Super Chip's tuner. I sold all my VW bugs, they were a fun project. I also gave my son my tricked out 1988 GMC low rider, Slammed, convt top, tilt nose, 1000watt stero... Lots of fun projects.

Karl

 

[ssmedt]

Karl is 100% right! I am a hot rod builder and own seven show cars personally, and can tell you that if you are a novice detailer or less please do not use a high speed polisher. Cars are easy to burn through the paint as it is, but PWCs have very complex compound curves that is just itchin' for a polisher to eat it up, SeaDoo boats are almost as curvy as well. As an extra step, catch a bottle of detail spray and a claybar. It will do wonders removing surface oxidation. Put a little mineral oil (found in the laxatives section of your local drug store) on the rubber and work it in. Be sure not to neglect the lower part of the hull too. Don't use Armorall or any other "slick" products on parts that you contact such as the grips, footbeds, or seat, as it can cause a hairy situation when you take it out next. I personally recommend Pennacle products, but they are insanely expensive. If you are not interested in spending an arm and a leg, use Meguiar's... good stuff! I personally stay away from anything with silicon in it, but the fact that I am a custom painter has a lot to do with that.

QUOTE]

:agree: if you have never used a clay bar; they are awesome; i use them twice per year on my car and the first thing i did to my boat when i got it was take the claybar to the outside; and wow did that gel coat come smooth; then you must follow up with a good wax to protect

 

[DryDocked]

My everyday drive is a 1988 Dodge Dakota 4x4 long bed, featured in the "1996 LUND" Calender. It has 47,000 original miles on it since I bought it new in the year. House of Kolors paint of course over PPG base color. I also own a 2006 Dodge Charger R/T, HEMI powered, with 9,000 Miles on it. Done a few small tricks under the hood, exhaust, added some cosmetics and a concealed radar detector from Escort,cause I'm a dealer...Lots of fun at 165mph, thanks to Super Chip's tuner. I sold all my VW bugs, they were a fun project. I also gave my son my tricked out 1988 GMC low rider, Slammed, convt top, tilt nose, 1000watt stero... Lots of fun projects.

Karl

Sweet! I have the Boss Mustang that Cragar used as their advertisment car from 1997-2001 (which was the last car Larry Shinoda built on before he died) and a 900hp Saleen Mustang to name a couple, so needless to say I am into go fast toys too! Sounds like you have got some really nice rides, congrats!
Sorry for getting off topic.

 

[kustomkarl]

The topic here is kinda like detailing your ride...you just keep getting carried away. :rofl:

Karl

 

[custompartsguy]

there are some products that will work very well on your seadoo, first off for small scratches that can be removed by hand use 3m perfect-it 2 compound or for heavy scratches that can come out by hand use 3m rubbing compount, if they do not come out by hand you can use a buffer, just take it slow and go easy, watercraft are not as easy to burn or hurt the finish compaired to auto's......Take your time and remember if you do not properly remove any imperfections and just go stright to a wax the the wax traps it underneath....2nd and this is a real big no,no....never use automotive waxes on watercraft...fiberglass needs to be able to breath and marine wax is properly formulated to wok in the conditions and allow that, my personal fav is starbright with ptef in it, can be found at west marine,boaters world for about $30 for a bottle, if you do use the buffer keep it away from and rubber/plastic for your first time...go easy on the hood if you do.....if you are the kind that just cannot resist the rubber rail then use blue painters tape and tape off the entire rub rail before you even start...........Its all time thats it....take your time and make it right..........I am a perfessional detailer and ase cert mechanic.......is kind of funny in my seadoo manual it says to wash and wax after each use....thats fine with me....salt water is very agressive.

 

[custompartsguy]

Then for very bad....there is scratch filler, gelcoat and or paint and then wet sand......but you might want to get an expert for that....lol

 

[z06_joe]

Just the other day I was tackling some surface scratches on my 2006 RXP. I actually wet sanded the bad areas of the hull starting with 1000 grit and worked my way up to 2000 grit. I then followed up with a high speed buffer running at about 1800rpms and a poly and wool blend pad using a product called Hi-Temp 357 Magnum which is a heat activated polish/leveler. The hull looked brand new when I was finished. I then applied a coat of Hi-Temp Marine Polish which is a synthetic formula wax that gave the ski the wet look.

If anyone has any detailing questions for PWC, boats or any other vehicles shoot me a PM. :cheers:

Joe

www.detailsupplyonline.com

 

[DryDocked]

Just the other day I was tackling some surface scratches on my 2006 RXP. I actually wet sanded the bad areas of the hull starting with 1000 grit and worked my way up to 2000 grit. I then followed up with a high speed buffer running at about 1800rpms and a poly and wool blend pad using a product called Hi-Temp 357 Magnum which is a heat activated polish/leveler. The hull looked brand new when I was finished. I then applied a coat of Hi-Temp Marine Polish which is a synthetic formula wax that gave the ski the wet look.

If anyone has any detailing questions for PWC, boats or any other vehicles shoot me a PM. :cheers:

Joe

www.detailsupplyonline.com

Very nice, very nice!