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Depth transducer location options
- Thread starter drjack
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Are you attempting to avoid drilling holes in the transom? If yes, I can understand why but will add fortunately, there's no wood in our transoms. I would still use plenty of a good marine sealer in the screw holes, such as 3M 4200, not silicone. Although silicone would probably work just fine, I've seen more cases than not, where it failed.
As far as the ride plate goes, I wonder if your sensor assembly comes with a bracket which would work well to obtain a reasonable position. This position also might expose the sensor to being easily bumped out of position although I would also consider the ride plate as well, to avoid drilling holes in my hull.
This mounting location (ride plate) is similar to the location chosen for many Pontoon mounts, usually pontoons have a mounting plate factory-welded to the toon for this purpose.
So to answer your question, yes, I believe I would prefer the ride plate but honestly no, I've never mounted one there but thought you deserves some kind of response.
And, I believe if you can work out a bracket to position the sensor according to your instructions recommendation, it should work quite well.
As far as the ride plate goes, I wonder if your sensor assembly comes with a bracket which would work well to obtain a reasonable position. This position also might expose the sensor to being easily bumped out of position although I would also consider the ride plate as well, to avoid drilling holes in my hull.
This mounting location (ride plate) is similar to the location chosen for many Pontoon mounts, usually pontoons have a mounting plate factory-welded to the toon for this purpose.
So to answer your question, yes, I believe I would prefer the ride plate but honestly no, I've never mounted one there but thought you deserves some kind of response.
And, I believe if you can work out a bracket to position the sensor according to your instructions recommendation, it should work quite well.
The Garmin DV45 comes with an unique torpedo style transducer with hardware that allows you to mount with a couple of different configurations.
The older Hummingbird version was mounted on the transom but I found when crashing down from some wave jumping, the transducer would flip up or at least start moving vertically, no matter how tight I secure the bolts. When looking at this new torpedo style, the transducer is at least twice the length and I figure that it will move vertically even more so.
The skid plate has a flat area, just about opposite of the speed sensor location, and thinking this new transducer would have a secure location. The cabling will still have to routed along the exterior of the transom area by using the same hole provided. No sense in drilling more holes as there's enough opportunities to sink a boat as there is.
The older Hummingbird version was mounted on the transom but I found when crashing down from some wave jumping, the transducer would flip up or at least start moving vertically, no matter how tight I secure the bolts. When looking at this new torpedo style, the transducer is at least twice the length and I figure that it will move vertically even more so.
The skid plate has a flat area, just about opposite of the speed sensor location, and thinking this new transducer would have a secure location. The cabling will still have to routed along the exterior of the transom area by using the same hole provided. No sense in drilling more holes as there's enough opportunities to sink a boat as there is.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I like to use Marine-Tex to fill holes, there's even a train of thought that says in the case of fiberglass one should drill the hole oversize maybe 2x and fill with an epoxy such as Marine-Tex, then redrill to the specific size for the screw. This avoids to large degree, a path for water absorption.
I often use cellophane packing tape to keep the epoxy in place during curing period.
Agree, it's pretty common for the sensor bracket to flip up. More so if it's mounted low seems like.
Many people prefer the inside hull sensors for these reasons but in some cases with our foam-laminated hulls and even the way water flows into the jet pump, sometimes the chosen position doesn't work well while underway.
I'm not sure what happens if you were to mount the sensor flush on the bottom of the ride plate, it might slow the boat slightly at speed?
That sensor shown with the gear-clamp looks interesting, I haven't seen that one before for some reason. Maybe I need to pay closer attention.
I often use cellophane packing tape to keep the epoxy in place during curing period.
Agree, it's pretty common for the sensor bracket to flip up. More so if it's mounted low seems like.
Many people prefer the inside hull sensors for these reasons but in some cases with our foam-laminated hulls and even the way water flows into the jet pump, sometimes the chosen position doesn't work well while underway.
I'm not sure what happens if you were to mount the sensor flush on the bottom of the ride plate, it might slow the boat slightly at speed?
That sensor shown with the gear-clamp looks interesting, I haven't seen that one before for some reason. Maybe I need to pay closer attention.
The agent/ friend who sold me the chartplotter unit mentioned that this transducer will work from the inside, but to be sure as its location is to dam up an area with plastering material and fill with water, then drop in the transducer to try out. Once a location is determined, then epoxy the transducer in place. When using epoxy, just carefully mix the the two agents together enough to blend without creating air bubbles.
But after all that involvement, it's best to just mount from the transom.
The gear clamping hardware is provided if you wish to mount this on the gearbox of a typical outboard motor.
The optional hardware provides a simple bracket to screw to the back of the transom.
But, the option I'm considering is no hardware brackets. Just use the flat sided surface of the transducer to rest against the ride plate, after drilling 4 holes for the screws needed to secure it.
I may lose a nautical mile per hour, ....but is it always about constant top end? I hope not, lol.
Sportster, I like your thoughts of increasing the size of the hole for sealant performance. That makes sense. I appreciate your thoughts.
I think I'll pursue my intentions and update how it all turned out. After all, one doesn't learn unless they make mistakes.
But after all that involvement, it's best to just mount from the transom.
The gear clamping hardware is provided if you wish to mount this on the gearbox of a typical outboard motor.
The optional hardware provides a simple bracket to screw to the back of the transom.
But, the option I'm considering is no hardware brackets. Just use the flat sided surface of the transducer to rest against the ride plate, after drilling 4 holes for the screws needed to secure it.
I may lose a nautical mile per hour, ....but is it always about constant top end? I hope not, lol.
Sportster, I like your thoughts of increasing the size of the hole for sealant performance. That makes sense. I appreciate your thoughts.
I think I'll pursue my intentions and update how it all turned out. After all, one doesn't learn unless they make mistakes.
There is another way to learn... you can heed the expensive lessons of those that have already paid, so you don't have to pay for the full cost of learning from scratch
For example: If you don't use Loctite on the screws that hold the flame arrestor to the carburetors, and they back out, the screws can go thru the carbs while the engine is running, and lock the rotary valve in place, destroying your brass gear. To fix it, you may need to crack the case. I paid for that one!!!! I wish someone had warned me. Hopefully it won't happen to you now that you heard my story
I agree that the lessons you suffer through and pay for, usually stick harder and longer with you.
On the transducer side, I have a dead transducer glued to my hull with epoxy. Just the one, the working one is now in a bracket outside. Your mileage may vary.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Yep, it doesn't hurt to ask, that's the OP's intention!
And certainly yes, transducers do go bad. I see many of the transom-mount type that live in water all summer season often no longer work after a couple years. Water gets in and corrosion will occur. Animals will chew the wires off, as well.
And certainly yes, transducers do go bad. I see many of the transom-mount type that live in water all summer season often no longer work after a couple years. Water gets in and corrosion will occur. Animals will chew the wires off, as well.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
As a test, you might consider using a c-clamp to clamp a small block of wood similar in size, prior to drilling the holes.
I too, wouldn't anticipate a huge change of speed but might be worth simulating.
Premix
Active Member
I would not attach the transducer to the bottom of the ride plate. I suspect it could scrub off more MPH than it might suggest. I'd rather have it trailing the ride plate so you can adjust it's height. Could the transducer encounter turbulence from the water inlet at speed?
I'm enthused about the plastic bag method in this video.
http://youtu.be/22SzRXa21hg
I'm enthused about the plastic bag method in this video.
http://youtu.be/22SzRXa21hg
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