MyFirstSpeedster
Member
Hey guys - I've got a 2012 Speedster 150-260. I'm upgrading the stereo this year (if they ever let me get my boat out of storage {NY here}), and I am looking to replace my battery with something with more capacitance.
Ideally I'd add another battery with an isolating switch (i.e. blue sea), but I already have enough to do on the boat (stereo, upholster, blower, s-charger, oil, intake manifold upg, cold-air, intercooler, etc), so I don't want to take the time to learn how to fiberglass a 2nd battery mount (at least this year) into the engine compartment (haven't seen any walk-throughs on how others physically added a battery for their two battery setups anyway).
I'm wondering what people's thoughts are on minimum Cold cranking amps (CCA) for a 4-tec boat.
-I see some posts for 4tec skis that mention CCA used between 350-400, but I couldn't find anything on the boat batteries
-I would think 552CCA would be enough, but perhaps there are differences between ski/boat where the 552CCA battery might struggle
STEREO SETUP:
-Wet Sounds HTX-2 2 channel: 150w RMs x 2 @ 4ohms
-Wet Sounds REVO 6 6.25": 2 @ 100w RMS
-No sub (this year)
-Battery (current): Deka 24M6 Lead Acid 650CCA & 115min @ 25A draw
>Always started the boat easily, even after it tipped over and lost some fluid
-Battery (proposed): Deka DC31DT ($142 @ Lowes) Lead Acid 552CCA & 190min @ 25A draw
>650 CCA listed, but fine print advises deduct 15% of CCA as a result double insulated glass mats on the deep cycle batteries
>>75min additonal amp draw is 65% capacity increase over the 24M6
>>>NOTE: there is a DP31DT (dual purpose) w/700CCA, but I can only find it shipped for $279
P.S.
-I evaluated a ton of different battery manufacturer and found Deka batteries to have the best capacity (within class) and being the best bang for your buck
-Gel seems out base don it's very different charging cycle/curve
-AGM was more money and does have a slightly different charging cycle/curve, and I've never had an issue with my lead acid battery
>I drove the boat so hard, it broke the plastic battery tray (i found it laying against the engine, and made a diamond plate mount to replace), and I never had issues with hard driving noticeably affecting the operating ability of my current lead acid battery
-I'm planning on having a DC jump pack on the boat with me in case i drain the battery playing music at the sand bar
Ideally I'd add another battery with an isolating switch (i.e. blue sea), but I already have enough to do on the boat (stereo, upholster, blower, s-charger, oil, intake manifold upg, cold-air, intercooler, etc), so I don't want to take the time to learn how to fiberglass a 2nd battery mount (at least this year) into the engine compartment (haven't seen any walk-throughs on how others physically added a battery for their two battery setups anyway).
I'm wondering what people's thoughts are on minimum Cold cranking amps (CCA) for a 4-tec boat.
-I see some posts for 4tec skis that mention CCA used between 350-400, but I couldn't find anything on the boat batteries
-I would think 552CCA would be enough, but perhaps there are differences between ski/boat where the 552CCA battery might struggle
STEREO SETUP:
-Wet Sounds HTX-2 2 channel: 150w RMs x 2 @ 4ohms
-Wet Sounds REVO 6 6.25": 2 @ 100w RMS
-No sub (this year)
-Battery (current): Deka 24M6 Lead Acid 650CCA & 115min @ 25A draw
>Always started the boat easily, even after it tipped over and lost some fluid
-Battery (proposed): Deka DC31DT ($142 @ Lowes) Lead Acid 552CCA & 190min @ 25A draw
>650 CCA listed, but fine print advises deduct 15% of CCA as a result double insulated glass mats on the deep cycle batteries
>>75min additonal amp draw is 65% capacity increase over the 24M6
>>>NOTE: there is a DP31DT (dual purpose) w/700CCA, but I can only find it shipped for $279
P.S.
-I evaluated a ton of different battery manufacturer and found Deka batteries to have the best capacity (within class) and being the best bang for your buck
-Gel seems out base don it's very different charging cycle/curve
-AGM was more money and does have a slightly different charging cycle/curve, and I've never had an issue with my lead acid battery
>I drove the boat so hard, it broke the plastic battery tray (i found it laying against the engine, and made a diamond plate mount to replace), and I never had issues with hard driving noticeably affecting the operating ability of my current lead acid battery
-I'm planning on having a DC jump pack on the boat with me in case i drain the battery playing music at the sand bar