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DEEP CYCLE BATTERY FOR STARTING - MINIMUM CCA?

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Hey guys - I've got a 2012 Speedster 150-260. I'm upgrading the stereo this year (if they ever let me get my boat out of storage {NY here}), and I am looking to replace my battery with something with more capacitance.

Ideally I'd add another battery with an isolating switch (i.e. blue sea), but I already have enough to do on the boat (stereo, upholster, blower, s-charger, oil, intake manifold upg, cold-air, intercooler, etc), so I don't want to take the time to learn how to fiberglass a 2nd battery mount (at least this year) into the engine compartment (haven't seen any walk-throughs on how others physically added a battery for their two battery setups anyway).

I'm wondering what people's thoughts are on minimum Cold cranking amps (CCA) for a 4-tec boat.
-I see some posts for 4tec skis that mention CCA used between 350-400, but I couldn't find anything on the boat batteries
-I would think 552CCA would be enough, but perhaps there are differences between ski/boat where the 552CCA battery might struggle

STEREO SETUP:
-Wet Sounds HTX-2 2 channel: 150w RMs x 2 @ 4ohms
-Wet Sounds REVO 6 6.25": 2 @ 100w RMS
-No sub (this year)
-Battery (current): Deka 24M6 Lead Acid 650CCA & 115min @ 25A draw
>Always started the boat easily, even after it tipped over and lost some fluid
-Battery (proposed): Deka DC31DT ($142 @ Lowes) Lead Acid 552CCA & 190min @ 25A draw
>650 CCA listed, but fine print advises deduct 15% of CCA as a result double insulated glass mats on the deep cycle batteries
>>75min additonal amp draw is 65% capacity increase over the 24M6
>>>NOTE: there is a DP31DT (dual purpose) w/700CCA, but I can only find it shipped for $279

P.S.
-I evaluated a ton of different battery manufacturer and found Deka batteries to have the best capacity (within class) and being the best bang for your buck
-Gel seems out base don it's very different charging cycle/curve
-AGM was more money and does have a slightly different charging cycle/curve, and I've never had an issue with my lead acid battery
>I drove the boat so hard, it broke the plastic battery tray (i found it laying against the engine, and made a diamond plate mount to replace), and I never had issues with hard driving noticeably affecting the operating ability of my current lead acid battery
-I'm planning on having a DC jump pack on the boat with me in case i drain the battery playing music at the sand bar
 
I run three optima D34M CCA 750. Two for my audio/ accessories needs and one for for starting/ running the boat. Don’t know if this is answers your question. If you needing know anything else let me know.

P.S. they are great but looking forward I’m probably going to change them out for two lithium batteries. I will do this for weight reduction. This will happen before end of summer.

2011 seadoo speedster 150

Clarion head unit M303 ( Maximum power output: 192W (48W x 4) with an Clarion MW1 wired remote (on swim deck, so you don’t have to get out the water) and SiriusXM SXV300v1.

1-Rockford Fosgate PM400X2

1 set of Rockford Fosgate PM282HW tower speakers

2 sets of Rockford Fosgate PM2652 6.5
 
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@hungoverracer - thanks for sharing man; any new info is useful.

I always thought the optima blues were strictly deep cycle, but the website seems to list it as a dual-pupose battery.

Sounds like a pretty nice setup on a 150!
>>>What do you think of it?

You mention having a 48x4 head unit and a 2 channel amp.
>>>How are you powering each set of two speakers; two on the amp and two form the deck?

What's your battery wiring setup for ?
>>>I'm guessing you're running a switch like blue-switch, but what format are two accessory batteries in?

Where did you mount all those batteries?
>>>any chance you could grab a pick of your setup at some point?
>>>I'd like to add batteries, but short of fiber-glassing another battery tray mount tray somewhere I'm not sure how I'd do it

IMG_0455.JPG
^^^Found a pic of when I noticed my battery tray broke
 
The set up is nice, somethings that bother me is that those tower speakers (that are running off the two channel amp) are heavy and the wake tower needs some stiffing. When in motion the tower wants to sway side to side (even when all bolts are tight). It concerns me so much that I don’t trailer the boat anymore with the tower speakers mounted. I’ve seen others post about cracks or breaks appearing in their factory tower. I don’t chance it and besides the chance of a something hitting those expensive tower speakers is high when rolling down the highway at 75 or 80 mph. Thankfully it’s great having easy disconnects.

I’m running the component speakers off the radio for now, I’m planning on running another amp just for those speakers (Rockford Fosgate PM600X4) just ran out some money before completion.

I made a steal battery box that houses the extra two batteries (I’ll get a few pictures for you this weekend after I pull it out and clean it up).
 
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Here when I first did my installation with my odyssey batteries. Like I said I send you some newer pictures this weekend. Cheer

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You didn't clean it huh....looks pretty great from those pictures!

It's obvious you take care of your boat.

I bought mine from a guy who enjoyed the hell out of it (315hrs on a 12' when i bought it in Canada in April 19'), but he didn't care for it as well as I'd liked (bad mildew on the seats).

I just got mine out of storage today and will be working on some stuff.

I'll post a pic of my makeshift battery tray in a day or two.
 
IMG_1532.jpg
^^^This is what I rigged up the morning I was supposed to leave for a bachelor party weekend after discovering that my batter tray had broken

@hungoverracer - I see you moved the fusebox out of the way, but how did you secure the tray with the Odysseys to the fiberglass? What about over the drop (towards the engine)?
>>>I'm imagining you drilled and riveted where the fusebox was (depth?), and made a foot for the portion that extends towards the engine

Do you drive aggressively (i.e. wave jump, etc); I'm trying to make sure that anything I do will survive the beating I give the boat.
 

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The fuse box was already in its place, I used a small piece of thick rubber then I epoxied it to the bracket and let it dry. After that I epoxied it to the fiber glass. I used several tubes of epoxy to bond it to the point I didn’t think that it would move.
 
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So this weekend I installed a NOCO on board battery charger it’s waterproof and does a great job charging AGM batteries.
This was partly because I found both of my prior battery chargers had shot the $hit. I didn’t know that they were were not working because the indicator lights showed to be charging. What I figure is in early spring we had some bad storms and I believe both had to have been hit with a electrical surge.
I do plan on placing some holes next to the charger to hide the wires instead of how it is now.

da80fcf77fa5b5c93ec3bc2bf0447382.jpg
 
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