Damaged of missing parts: Which ones should I replace?

[WaterEnthusiast]

Hi,

As stated in a previous thread, I recently acquired a 2008 Sea-Doo Wake 215. While I'm no mechanics and this is my first foray in boating and/or mechanical repairs, I've decided to educate myself and start by visually inspecting the Sea-Doo to see what needs to be replaced.

Here is a list of all the parts that I found to be either missing of damaged. I'd like to get advice on whether each of them should absolutely be repaired, could be repaired as an option, or isn't worth time/price) repairing. I noticed that the price for replacement parts isn't cheap, even for small parts that only cost a few cents to manufacture.

Here is the list (let me know if more information is needed. I found the following site to be VERY useful to identify each part number.

1- Anode zinc - 271001487: This is a round part that sits on the ride plate in the back. I have one on the starboard side but none on port side. What is the use of this part and do I need to add the missing one? (see picture).

UPDATE: It seems that only one anode is normally present on Sea-doos.



2- Hex Screw M6 X 20 (Scotch Grip) - 207362060: This is the screw to fix the anode zinc. Can I just use a regular screw from Home Depot instead or they are specially treated for water? What is "scotch grip"?

UPDATE: The scotch grip is a Loctite equivalent.

3- Small boot attached to the direction arm/shaft: 277001582: I am not sure this is the correct part number, and I am not sure if my part is damaged, missing, or if it is a simple matter that the rubber has worn/torn/heated. But something definitely isn't as it was when it got out of the factory. See pictures.



4- Boot to run the wire harnest to the dash board - Bellow - 269501557: When I open the front hood, I can see this rubber boot is torn at multiple places, but I suspect that when the hood is closed, although not sealed, there probably isn't water coming in (?). Also, could I just put electrical tape to "fix it" instead? Those boot aren't cheap and changing them seems to be a pain. See picture below

5- Rubber boot to protect the hood arm - Grommet- 293720078: Just next to the previous part, this boot prevent water from affecting the wire harnest, but I'm not sure there is causes a problem when the hood is closed. See picture.



6- Tow-pylon rubber strap - 293250183: This one is slightly cracked, but I am not sure if I need to replace it or if it is still working. It isn't clear what is the purpose of this part. Also, what is the use of the plastic hook just below it? See picture.

UPDATE: Indeed this part is what locks the tow pylon. I gather from the comment that it should be replaced. The user manual also states that is should be lubricated, which I agree. The hook is to be used with a strap below (missing/broken on my picture) to attach the ski rope to the pylon. I looked into it and they seem easily replaceable.




7- The fire extinguisher is missing the top handle... Does this renders it useless? Can I buy a generic extinguisher that will fit in the hood compartment/straps?

UPDATE: Yes, my extinguisher is not permanently damaged and I'll need to replace it with a Canadian one to legally drive my Sea Doo on the water.




Thanks a lot for your help/feedback on this.

 

[mikidymac]

You already have all the part numbers so I buy all my OEM parts from Pro Caliber out of Washington.

You are out of luck on the extinguisher as all the ones that fit our skis have been recalled or are no longer manufactured. Your best bet is to find one on ebay. And yes, yours is not functioning and illegal because of that. Only other option is to get a generic one and find a way to mount it.

 

[skiasylum]

On the ski pylon the rubber strap puts tension on the locking mechanism that keeps the pylon in the up or down position, I replaced mine and it worked better. I have another strap where your hook is 2011 and it is a place to secure your ski rope when not in use. The other strap goes from the bottom of the pylon to the hook.

 

[lamajama]

#1 - Any machine I have owned has only ever had the anode on the left so don't worry about this. This is to help if you ride in salt water- which by the jet drive pic it appears the machine has been used quite a bit in salt water. You need to rinse this area etc after riding in salt. Search this forum for excellent threads and consider using Saltaway product. Quite good.

 

[skiasylum]

A OEM bolt with 3M scotch grip is the factory lock tite, keeps the bolt from becoming loose when they don’t want you to over tighten it. Usually associated with a specified torque for the bolt.

#5 is the boot for your hood strut which if the shaft corrodes will tear up the seals in the strut and render it useless. I needed to replace mine and you will need to refer to the service manual to do it. I will also mention the top attach point for the strut to the hood is very easily broken. If it breaks you will need a new hood. Never ride your ski without the front storage compartment in place and secure and never force your hood latches shut.

 

[Chester]

You are out of luck on the extinguisher as all the ones that fit our skis have been recalled or are no longer manufactured. Your best bet is to find one on ebay. And yes, yours is not functioning and illegal because of that. Only other option is to get a generic one and find a way to mount it.

I know the Kidde extinguishers were recalled but what about First Alert?

Chester

 

[Chester]

First Alert Marine Compact Fire Extinguisher 5-B:C - Overtons

Chester

 

[WaterEnthusiast]

Thanks all for your replies.

@skiasylum , that is exactly what I thought: At the moment, I can pull up the pylon and also push it down, but I don't understand the mechanism to "unlock it". I just need to force a bit... it doesn't seem "normal". I saw that on a 2007 model (as well as the user manual drawings for my model - which is incorrect) there was a locking pin that needed to be pulled to "unlock" it. Thanks for the clarification regarding the strap for the rope. I had a feeling that this too was a broken part and indeed it seems that I am missing part 269501299, the rubber latch.

@lamajama , I think you are right. I took a closer look at the pictures in the user manual and indeed I only see one anode. Makes sense. Regarding salt water, I too am wondering if this the white deposits is the result of riding in salt water, but I would say it is highly unlikely. I don't know the history of the owners, but I live in Quebec where there is basically no salt water. People here ride in lakes and rivers. Is it possible that one of the owner took it down to the beach for a summer (or longer), sure, but I find it unlikely. Could it instead be from limestone deposits?

@skiasylum why should I not ride without the front storage compartment? I don't see how not having the front storage present can increase the chances of the strut attachement breaking. Also, by looking at the pictures, do you think I NEED to change both boots? Or can I leave then as they are since when the hood is closed, the boot is compressed and water should get in unless there is a lot of water.. (???).

@Chester , will the First Alert exinguisher you linked fit perfectly under the hood in the straps?

Last, but not least, what about my item #3. Is this a damaged boot? Can someone post a picture of their equivalent part? So that I know if it is only slightly burns, or if there is a while other section that is missing.

As a bonus question: Whilst reading the user manual it stated that I should be wary of gas odors inside the hull. When I remove the front compartment, I would say there is a fairly strong gas odor from inside the hull, although the gas tank is almost empty. Should I worry or is this normal? Is there some test I should do to see if there is a leak?

Thanks again for taking the time to help me.

 

[lamajama]

First Alert Marine Compact Fire Extinguisher 5-B:C - Overtons

Chester

I purchased a smaller unit at (Canada) Canadian Tire and it works just fine in my 2008's.

 

[Greg]

Hey @WaterEnthusiast check out the forums official parts site: www.seadoowarehouse.com we will beat any price out there. Just pm me a list of the parts you want

 

[WaterEnthusiast]

Hey @WaterEnthusiast check out the forums official parts site: www.seadoowarehouse.com we will beat any price out there. Just pm me a list of the parts you want

Thanks hfgreg. That website is wonderfully done and it is the one I used to build my part list (but then I used partzilla to store my list). I'll definitely send you a PM once I am ready to order. I've identified 12 parts that I may need to replace, but I'm still not sure that I will replace all of them. Other issue: I'm in Canada so shipping and customs could be an issue so I would have preferred to source locally, although despite those watercrafts being designed in Québec, I think they are laughing at us when deciding the prices for local customers. An option would be to ship to a US address and drive to pick it up.

 

[mikidymac]

First Alert Marine Compact Fire Extinguisher 5-B:C - Overtons

Chester

The first Alert ones were discontinued and when they came back they were too fat. It looks like they might have new ones now in the link you posted but I have not verified they work yet.

 

[WaterEnthusiast]

I know the Kidde extinguishers were recalled but what about First Alert?

Chester

I now realize that I need to purchase a Canadian fire extinguisher; if I end up purchasing my parts from the US parts, I'll still need to purchase the extinguisher locally.

 

[skiasylum]

I replaced both the locking strap and the ski rope strap and once you remove pylon trim it’s pretty straight forward. Nothing tricky. The pylon uses a couple ball and springs into detents to keep it up and down. You are correct just push it down and pull it up. Clean and synthetic grease the pylon shaft and with the new locking strap it will not be finicky.

In my 2011 owners manual it says to not ride the ski without the front storage compartment in place. Not sure exactly why, maybe a flotation thing or the hood is braced against the compartment when it is closed. I am pretty sure my hood to strut attachment broke because of the storage compartment was not in place during a ride.

If it was my ski I would replace both boots, someone probably smarter than us thought that area needed protection from the elements and they are obviously not doing what they were designed to do with tears in them.

 

[Preston]

My 2011 RXTX has 3 anodes fitted to it.

 

[WaterEnthusiast]

I replaced both the locking strap and the ski rope strap and once you remove pylon trim it’s pretty straight forward. Nothing tricky. The pylon uses a couple ball and springs into detents to keep it up and down. You are correct just push it down and pull it up. Clean and synthetic grease the pylon shaft and with the new locking strap it will not be finicky.

In my 2011 owners manual it says to not ride the ski without the front storage compartment in place. Not sure exactly why, maybe a flotation thing or the hood is braced against the compartment when it is closed. I am pretty sure my hood to strut attachment broke because of the storage compartment was not in place during a ride.

If it was my ski I would replace both boots, someone probably smarter than us thought that area needed protection from the elements and they are obviously not doing what they were designed to do with tears in them.

Thanks. I managed to tear apart the pylon and everything became clear. I'll definitely replace the pylon strap as well as the rope strap. When you say clean and synthetic grease.. would jig-a-loo work..? Or WD-40...? Same for lublicating the throttle cable and body: the user manual says to use the Sea-Doo XP-S lubricant... is this the same as WD40 or Jig-a-loo..? I see a tuve of XP-S synthetic greases that sells for 130CAD on Amazon! Wow. That probably answers the question....

Regarding the 2 front boots, my concern isn't the price more than how to get to them without requiring to dismantle the whole hood. Were you able to replace the arm and that boot without removing the hood from the hull..?

 

[skiasylum]

Thanks. I managed to tear apart the pylon and everything became clear. I'll definitely replace the pylon strap as well as the rope strap. When you say clean and synthetic grease.. would jig-a-loo work..? Or WD-40...? Same for lublicating the throttle cable and body: the user manual says to use the Sea-Doo XP-S lubricant... is this the same as WD40 or Jig-a-loo..? I see a tuve of XP-S synthetic greases that sells for 130CAD on Amazon! Wow. That probably answers the question....

Regarding the 2 front boots, my concern isn't the price more than how to get to them without requiring to dismantle the whole hood. Were you able to replace the arm and that boot without removing the hood from the hull..?

My main concern on the lubricant for the pylon shaft that when it is up it’s exposed to certain body covering apparel of the female persuasion and if she gets bearing grease on her $100 swimsuit bottoms it kinda wrecks the day. If you want to spray it with jig-a-loo that’s up to you, probably not my lubricant of choice.

The hood strut bellows can be changed without the hood coming off the hull. The strut disconnects at both ends from the hull and the hood. The electrical boot might be a different story, I don’t have that on my 2011. Looks like you would need to find a connector end of the cable and tie a piece of string to it and see if you can fish it thru the boot from either direction.

 

[WaterEnthusiast]

My main concern on the lubricant for the pylon shaft that when it is up it’s exposed to certain body covering apparel of the female persuasion and if she gets bearing grease on her $100 swimsuit bottoms it kinda wrecks the day. If you want to spray it with jig-a-loo that’s up to you, probably not my lubricant of choice.

The hood strut bellows can be changed without the hood coming off the hull. The strut disconnects at both ends from the hull and the hood. The electrical boot might be a different story, I don’t have that on my 2011. Looks like you would need to find a connector end of the cable and tie a piece of string to it and see if you can fish it thru the boot from either direction.

What would be your lubricant of choice?

So to remove the strut, I only have to pull on it, without removing the top plastic part in which it sits (not the hood, but the plastic tray hooked in the hood - part # 269501552 I think)? I was afraid to pull on the strut, especially after you said this assembly was fragile.

Indeed, it seems in the following years they stopped putting the dashboard dials in the hood, which seems like a good idea! But I am no too concerned about that one, the wire harnest is juste there below and I can easily fish it though and back. The strut was my main concern.

 

[skiasylum]

What would be your lubricant of choice?

So to remove the strut, I only have to pull on it, without removing the top plastic part in which it sits (not the hood, but the plastic tray hooked in the hood - part # 269501552 I think)? I was afraid to pull on the strut, especially after you said this assembly was fragile.

Indeed, it seems in the following years they stopped putting the dashboard dials in the hood, which seems like a good idea! But I am no too concerned about that one, the wire harnest is juste there below and I can easily fish it though and back. The strut was my main concern.

Your 2008 hood shock absorber is completely different than my 2011.
Mine attaches directly to the hood with a different attachment method and from your parts diagram your correct it is very difficult to figure how yours attaches. I do suggest if you have plastic push in pins for the attach points that you warm the plastic to make it less brittle if you attempt to pull them.

 

[mikidymac]

Don't use grease on the pylon. As soon as dirt gets into it you will have a problem. The best thing is spray silicone every couple of rides.

 

[WaterEnthusiast]

Don't use grease on the pylon. As soon as dirt gets into it you will have a problem. The best thing is spray silicone every couple of rides.

Like Jig-a-loo?

 

[mikidymac]

Yes, that should be fine.