Custom drive shaft

[Albysure]

At the beginning of the summer I was having a slight cavatating issue...so I simple pushed back the bellow and carbon seal and moved the c clip to the next spot...fixed....my friend wanted to do the same because his carbon seal was leaking but he did not have the extra spots to move the clip...so he just ordered a new drive line kit....so we pulled the drive shaft out and went to a local machine shop and add the groves machined in and matched my spacing....so hopefully later on he can move it without having to just buy a new kit...has anybody done this or is it even a good idea?

Thanks

 

[Dr Honda]

I can't ever remembering hearing about anyone doing that. But... sounds like a good idea, since the shaft was out.

 

[Guest_User]

why not just properly align the engine and Forward/rearward placement to have the "correct" bellows compressed tension on the carbon seal???

Follow the specs in the shop service manual and he`ll be fine...

 

[Dr Honda]

why not just properly align the engine and Forward/rearward placement to have the "correct" bellows compressed tension on the carbon seal???

Follow the specs in the shop service manual and he`ll be fine...

Yes... without a doubt, that's the best way.


BUT........


Some of the seadoo driveshafts had up to 3 C-clip grooves cut in them from the factory. The nice thing is... when cavatation was in question... you could load the boot a little more by moving it back.



The reason they probably got away from that, is if you take a new boot, seal, and ring... and just put it on the tight spot... you would over heat the seal, and wear it prematurely. The idea was to run it as lose as possible. but, you know most people.... "If tight is good... tighter must be better."

 

[Guest_User]

The reason they probably got away from that, is if you take a new boot, seal, and ring... and just put it on the tight spot... you would over heat the seal, and wear it prematurely. The idea was to run it as lose as possible. but, you know most people.... "If tight is good... tighter must be better."

exactly... ^^^

I`ve seen some aftermarket drive shafts with the multi grooves.
personally I`d rather try to do it right with factory specs and new parts before I make up a band aid...
chances are the issue would be resolved if all were in spec.

the spacing on the grooves appears to be more than what`s needed, but I saying that without first hand experience.

 

[Albysure]

I agree with both of you....but I said he is replacing it now because it is leaking and causing cavitation....so he is doing it right...the machined c clips spots are for future use....for example----we went to go out last Thursday and he could not get up on plane... so he spent most of the day fighting to keep up with us...if he had the extra c clips machined in then he could of simple put the boat back on the trailer and slide the bellow and carbon seal back a spot....this would of saved the day instead of limping around all day....

 

[howie099]

My OEM shafts have the 3 grooves in them. The longer OEM boots are real strong. I needed another person to pull the boot so I could install the clip on the first groove. I couldn'r hold the boot assembly with just 1 hand and install the clip with my other. I don't see how you could get them on the third grove with a good boot. I did have WSM boots for about 2 mins installed when I could pull them back with not much effert. I have to say the OEMs are much stonger and about 3/8" longer.