Crankshaft rebuild question

[ape1972]

Hello everyone,
I’m in the process of rebuilding my crankshaft and have a question. Does anyone know what loctite is used for the taper press fit? I can’t find it anywhere. Thank you for the help!

Adrian

 

[Ed Clark]

You neglected to mention the model and year of the ski and the engine model that you are working on. The spec's for chemical/lubrication products and where they are to be applied can generally be found in an online parts manual for the specific model of interest. I just randomly looked at the crankshaft exploded view for the 2002 XP with 947 DI engine. It indicated the use of Loctite 242 on the crankshaft tapers. Loctite 242 is simply the standard blue-colored thread-locker that can purchased anywhere. But, I suggest that you review the specific spec's. for your machine.

Now for a bit of kibitzing that wasn't asked for. It is of no benefit and possibly detrimental to use a thread-lock product on a tapered fit. One man's opinion so take it for what it's worth.

 

[burtshaver2021]

I’ve spent some time trying to research this with little success. I have also seen a thread although it was on a snowmobile forum where a poster recommended using nothing in a press fit taper. If I were doing it I would freeze the crankshaft and heat whatever you are pressing on the taper. Although probably not near as tight of tolerances I have had good success with this method for pressing in wheel bearings, I myself had thought about attempting to rebuild a crankshaft at one time but after reading up on it I decided not to because of all the specialized tools required. 50 ton press, I have a 20 ton press but that’s not big enough. A jig to phase the crank, then the knowledge of knowing just where to hit the crank, V blocks, dial indicator, the spacers. It was just too much for me. I’m interested to know where you sourced the spacers and new bearings from?

 

[ape1972]

You neglected to mention the model and year of the ski and the engine model that you are working on. The spec's for chemical/lubrication products and where they are to be applied can generally be found in an online parts manual for the specific model of interest. I just randomly looked at the crankshaft exploded view for the 2002 XP with 947 DI engine. It indicated the use of Loctite 242 on the crankshaft tapers. Loctite 242 is simply the standard blue-colored thread-locker that can purchased anywhere. But, I suggest that you review the specific spec's. for your machine.

Now for a bit of kibitzing that wasn't asked for. It is of no benefit and possibly detrimental to use a thread-lock product on a tapered fit. One man's opinion so take it for what it's worth.

Model is a 2002 GTX DI

 

[ape1972]

I’ve spent some time trying to research this with little success. I have also seen a thread although it was on a snowmobile forum where a poster recommended using nothing in a press fit taper. If I were doing it I would freeze the crankshaft and heat whatever you are pressing on the taper. Although probably not near as tight of tolerances I have had good success with this method for pressing in wheel bearings, I myself had thought about attempting to rebuild a crankshaft at one time but after reading up on it I decided not to because of all the specialized tools required. 50 ton press, I have a 20 ton press but that’s not big enough. A jig to phase the crank, then the knowledge of knowing just where to hit the crank, V blocks, dial indicator, the spacers. It was just too much for me. I’m interested to know where you sourced the spacers and new bearings from?

Hello and thanks for the input… the bearings are all over eBay. I bought Nachi bearings. I actually separated the crankshaft with a 12 ton press (major pain in the a$$). Spacers can be found at most metal supply companies. I made most of mine. Indicating the crankshaft is the most challenging part.

 

[burtshaver2021]

Hello and thanks for the input… the bearings are all over eBay. I bought Nachi bearings. I actually separated the crankshaft with a 12 ton press (major pain in the a$$). Spacers can be found at most metal supply companies. I made most of mine. Indicating the crankshaft is the most challenging part.

Will this be your first attempt at rebuilding one? Post some pictures along the way. I’m interested to see if a DIY’er like myself might be able complete a project like this although I could see myself starting on a single cylinder crankshaft. Especially interested to see what you end up using for indexing. If I remember correctly the best video I found, he was rebuilding a 717 and used on old crankcase that he had Jimmied up. Thanks for posting

 

[ape1972]

Will this be your first attempt at rebuilding one? Post some pictures along the way. I’m interested to see if a DIY’er like myself might be able complete a project like this although I could see myself starting on a single cylinder crankshaft. Especially interested to see what you end up using for indexing. If I remember correctly the best video I found, he was rebuilding a 717 and used on old crankcase that he had Jimmied up. Thanks for posting

Yes my first attempt but I do have some machine shop knowledge! I will post pics and I had seen the vid o too. I thought of a different way and if it works I will share the info!

 

[MAL]

Yes my first attempt but I do have some machine shop knowledge! I will post pics and I had seen the vid o too. I thought of a different way and if it works I will share the info!

You should comment in the comment section of the videos where they use the Loctite. You may get lucky and hear from the video creator. Small YouTube channels can be pretty good about responding sometimes.

 

[mikidymac]

You do not use or need loctite on the crank press fit parts or bearings. It is just for the flywheels.

You are also going to have V-Blocks and a really good dial indicator to measure runout.