Continued OIL question

[SeadooBOB Square Pants]

Hello all,
So I was on the lake for the first time with my boat and the guys that tuned my boat said all the levels were good and I was ready to go.....hmmm. I am out in the middle of the lake and the boats starts running funny. I look at the speedo and the oil light is on, I have no idea how long it has been on. Well needless to say I am pretty far from my trailer and so I go buy some oil from the marina and put it in so I don't mess up the boat. Do you think I should have the current oil drained and replace all of it. If so how much time/work does it take? 1-2 hours? Or can I just wait for the remaining oil to drain again? I purchased the boat used and I talked to the guy who owned it before and he didn't even know what type of oil he was running.
:ack:

 

[timmyboy76]

What kind of boat, motor?

 

[Lenny718]

Ditto, what kind/type of motor is powering your boat?

 

[SeadooBOB Square Pants]

1996 Seadoo Speedster twin 85HP Rotax engines.

 

[timmyboy76]

Yah...I'd drain it, most you can...beaker/syphin/shop vac out the res., Dont know if was mineral or synthetic. Might get messy, but simple green or this other stuff is good, cant think of name, also drain line/s for oil injector as well.
Undo hoses from motor to drain case/s, or push/blow air in line/s that are on bottom of res, and will push thru return, draining in jug/container...good luck.
Aint worth lett'n dealer do it, just could get messy..

 

[SeadooBOB Square Pants]

Could I just take the entire reservoir out and drain it that way. The oil has already been run in the engine with two types of oil, maybe more, couldn't I just drain the reservoir? There might already be 2 to possible three types oils in the motor/reservoir.....I bought quicksilver which says it exceeds API TC standards which I think is what I am going for.

 

[timmyboy76]

Yah, but you want that oil out of the casings and lines as well.

 

[SeadooBOB Square Pants]

Well I am going to attempt to drain it all this week, I hope it is not too messy....but it will be.
Thanks for all the help.

 

[kustomkarl]

Here is some information on oil and what you need to drain an get the injector pump back in order.

Use High quality low ASH API TC Injector oil.
Do Not use NMMA TC-W, TC-W2 or TC-W3 outboard motor oils or other ash less type 2 cycle oil. Avoid mixing different brands of API TC oil as resulting chemical reaction will cause severe engine damage. Never mix Mineral or synthetics oil together.

Never use fuel containing more than 10 % alcohol,( Methanol or Ethanol) as severe damage will occur. The minimum of 87 octane is recommended for most engines.

Here is a step by step to the oil pump oil lines;

After you drain the oil from the oil lines and refill them, you have to be sure there is no air in the lines when the engine starts up or it will cause the engine to seize up. You need to fill the oil lines back up with oil. To drain the oil from the Rotary Valve Chamber, use a shop vac to suck the oil out of the hose…it’s the one that is 3/8” diameter. I attach the empty lines back to tank and fill the tank. The oil line going to the oil injector pump attaches to a elbow fitting on allows the oil to flow to the pump. I let the oil drain into the oil line to the pump first and put a small cup at the end of the oil line, to catch the oil coming out of the end of full line. Attach the full oil line to the elbow on the oil pump. There is a bleeder screw on the pump. Lay a rag under the bleeder screw. Open the bleeder screw till the pump has oil coming out. Tighten the bleeder screw. Be sure the oil is full in the small 2 lines also. Let the oil seep out the ends of the small lines to fill the lines as best as you can. Connect the 2 small oil lines from the pump to the carburetors. Where the cable is connected is a Disk,(pump lever) that the cable is attached to. Check that the mark on the pump aligns with the mark on the disk. Apply the throttle with the ENGINE OFF and check that the cable is in sync with the oil injector cable. They should move open and close at the same time. To bleed the 2 small lines and get the bubbles out, start the engine, on the water hose. DO NOT APPLY THROTTLE. Let the engine IDLE. Turn the Disk,( pump lever) that the oil injector cable is attached to, to full open so the air bubbles travel to the carburetors and leave no bubbles in the line. Don’t run the seadoo for more than a couple minutes on the hose.
For the Rotary Valve Gear Shaft, attach the hose on the tank and allow the oil to fill the hose and attach it to the case. Recheck all the oil lines and be sure they aren't leaking any oil. If you still have any questions give us a shout.

Karl