Changing your own oil on Seadoo boat

[hancop]

Has anyone changed their own oil and filter on the Seadoo boats ?
I have a 2012 260 hp speedster and would like to change my own oil and filter.
I have the 2012 shop manual and it looks pretty straight forward, but one area I don' t understand or am a little concerned about is the following: Fully depress the throttle lever and HOLD it while cranking engine for 10 seconds. Siphon oil again. Repeat the crank-siphon cycle 2 - 3 times.

It is suggested to do that step to get more oil out. I know on the Sea-doo PWC's that holding the throttle wide open puts it into drown mode and it will not start, but does this actually work on the boats ? You would have to put the boat in forward to be able to even move the throttle to max, and then will the boat even allow you to turn it over with this scenario ? I am thinking no as it probably will only allow the key to be turned if throttle is in neutral ?

Maybe someone who changes there own oil on these could chime in here ?
Any tips for doing this ? Ideas on how to prevent oil spillage when changing oil filter ?
Should I get a new O ring when buy the oil filter and oil ?

Thanks

 

[gverva]

I have a 210 challenger and it has the intelligent throttle control (iTC), aka electronic throttle control, which I believe your 2012 150 speedster has. Putting the engine in drown confused me as well because the engine will not turn over if not in neutral, but it does still apply to boats. Deeper into the shop manual (I can't remember what section but not the maintenance section) it actually does discuss drown mode with iTC.

Basically you need to find where the throttle cable terminates. In my boat it is behind the helm/console, where you access the backside of the gauges, steering, etc. The same area on the 150 is underneath the front storage compartment. Or I suppose it could be in the engine compartment, but I'm guessing not. Once you find the termination point, you'll see a device where the throttle movement gets translated into electric signals (throttle sensor). There is a metal arm that gets moved by the throttle cable that you can push all the way to the other side, and this simulates wide open throttle and puts the engine in drown mode. I'll try to get a picture of my setup if I can, but if you move the throttle while looking at the throttle sensor you should be able to see what I mean.

The above has worked for me just fine. As for you other questions, I don't really have any spillage when removing the oil filter other than a drip or 2. It drains well and it's not like removing the filter off an auto. Just through some rags around the filter canister before removing. Oh and you'll need an E10 torx socket to get the filter bolt loose. I always change the 2 O-rings on the outside of the filter cover, but the old O-rings see to be OK. I've heard about some people having oil spewing everywhere because the oil cover was not installed correctly or maybe O-rings got damaged. Not something I care to clean-up so I change them every time to be safe.


Geoff

 

[pvamax]

Start as you normally would in Neutral and no throttle, but manually pull the throttle cable wide open at the throttle body, very easy. Helps to have someone else press the start button, but i just use a broom stick to reach it while holding the tb open. This enters drown mode on the 215 boat anyway.

 

[cheappc]

I got a pretty good Quote from my purchasing dealer... what do you guys think? I have done all my work on my older boat, but since I wan to do the "10 hour break in inspection" and also the oil change and tune up?

Ok I just searched and found the video on how to change the oil, same method as my older boat, you have to siphon out the oil....

I guess its better than paying big bucks to the dealer for doing it...

 

[timeman]

I bought my boat used w/12 hours, the guy I bought it from pre-paid a 3 yr. service contract....Every time I had it in for the annual (pre-paid) service, oil /filter /spark plugs it was around $300 bucks...I figured the invoice was bogus, way inflated because it was a pre-pay?... sort of a chance for the dealer to be making some money back from the factory?

Well when my contract ran out, I called and asked what the "cash" price would be?...To my surprise it was exactly the same as before. So I learned how to do the annual stuff myself, and it was not only easy, but CHEAP.

Here's an example of what's needed direct from the manufacturer:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Change-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a015292b1&vxp=mtr

Also purchased an oil siphon pump at West Marine, but for less than a third of what my dealer wanted for just one service , I was in business, plus I don't have to drag my boat to them and play fetch when they call....

BTW, this is the first ebay example I came across...when I order, I always find someone with "free" shipping...

Happy Boating!

 

[SeaDoo Fan]

This is what I use to extract my oil. A Mighty Vac MV7400. It works great. I also use it to change oil in my lawn mower, riding mower, tiller, pressure washer etc.