Changing Oil in Jet Pump

[grhonk]

I've never changed the oil in my jet pump. Is it difficult to do? The manual says there's a hole in the conical piece, and it states you have to take out the entire jet pump in order to stick a wire down the hole to see how much oil is down there. Isn't there an easier way? The manual says to pull the pump, but it doesn't say how to pull it.

Ref: 97 xp

 

[LouDoo]

You don't need to pull the pump to check or change the oil.

1. Remove the steering nozzle.
2. To check the oil remove the fill plug, fill to overflowing, replace the fill plug.
3. To change the oil, remove the cone.
4. I use an empty 12 pack, fold it up, stick the cardboard between the pump and the ride plate, let the oil drain into a container.
5. Replace the "O" ring, smear a little RV sealant on the "O" ring, re-install the cone bolts, use blue thread lock.
6. Refill the pump oil, I use 75W90 Mobile 1 synthetic, to over flowing, takes about 3oz.
7. Pressure test manual says 10psi for 10mins., I do 30psi for 30mins.
8. Replace the fill plug.

You need to do this annually, I do mine when I winterize.

Lou

 

[bigJake]

Lou, I'd be pretty drunk by the time I got to step 5.

grhonk, here is a video version:http://video.search.yahoo.com/video...&c=0&sigr=11a62mjmb&age=0&fr=yfp-t-142-s&tt=b

 

[LouDoo]

Lou, I'd be pretty drunk by the time I got to step 5.

grhonk, here is a video version:http://video.search.yahoo.com/video...&c=0&sigr=11a62mjmb&age=0&fr=yfp-t-142-s&tt=b

Jake,

You don't have to empty the 12 pack, but it would probably help. BTW, how do you like your new truck. Thinking about upgrading to a Grand Cherokee so I can tow my boat.

Lou

 

[bigJake]

Jake,

You don't have to empty the 12 pack, but it would probably help. BTW, how do you like your new truck. Thinking about upgrading to a Grand Cherokee so I can tow my boat.

Lou

Lou, I've only driven the truck once so far. That 5.7 got some real power.

We left for Hilton Head the day after getting it and just got back home today. I thought about taking the truck to HH, but so glad I didn't. I'm sure it would have gotten a few parking lot dings.

 

[grhonk]

You don't need to pull the pump to check or change the oil.

1. Remove the steering nozzle.
2. To check the oil remove the fill plug, fill to overflowing, replace the fill plug.
3. To change the oil, remove the cone.
4. I use an empty 12 pack, fold it up, stick the cardboard between the pump and the ride plate, let the oil drain into a container.
5. Replace the "O" ring, smear a little RV sealant on the "O" ring, re-install the cone bolts, use blue thread lock.
6. Refill the pump oil, I use 75W90 Mobile 1 synthetic, to over flowing, takes about 3oz.
7. Pressure test manual says 10psi for 10mins., I do 30psi for 30mins.
8. Replace the fill plug.

You need to do this annually, I do mine when I winterize.

Lou

Great procedure! Just a few of questions, though, if you don't mind: Will any "O" ring suffice for the replacement, as long as it's the same size, or does it have to be an OEM replacement? What is RV sealant? Where can I get 75W90 Mobile 1 synthetic, besides the Seadoo dealer? How do you do the pressure test? Do I need to buy a tool to fit into the hole where the allen screw fill hole is?

 

[grhonk]

Lou, I'd be pretty drunk by the time I got to step 5.

grhonk, here is a video version:http://video.search.yahoo.com/video...&c=0&sigr=11a62mjmb&age=0&fr=yfp-t-142-s&tt=b

Fantastic video! BTW, can you tell me how to run a search on this website that narrows down the search to just something like "vts problem"? I tried "vts" and it doesn't find any hits. Then I tried "vts problem" and I gives me everything with "problem" in the title. It is not what I am looking for .. I want the exact words together, "vts problem". Any help on searching would be greatly appreciated.

 

[bigJake]

Fantastic video! BTW, can you tell me how to run a search on this website that narrows down the search to just something like "vts problem"? I tried "vts" and it doesn't find any hits. Then I tried "vts problem" and I gives me everything with "problem" in the title. It is not what I am looking for .. I want the exact words together, "vts problem". Any help on searching would be greatly appreciated.

the search capability on the site is very limited, use your web browser to search the forum eg vts problem site:seadooforum.com

 

[grhonk]

Great procedure! Just a few of questions, though, if you don't mind: Will any "O" ring suffice for the replacement, as long as it's the same size, or does it have to be an OEM replacement? What is RV sealant? Where can I get 75W90 Mobile 1 synthetic, besides the Seadoo dealer? How do you do the pressure test? Do I need to buy a tool to fit into the hole where the allen screw fill hole is?

Ok. I bought some 75W90 syn and gooped up the O-ring with RTV (white), but how do you take the pressure test?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Ok. I bought some 75W90 syn and gooped up the O-ring with RTV (white), but how do you take the pressure test?

Pressure test before filling with oil, lol, through the fill port in the cone. Pump up with air and watch for pressure decay, hopefully no pressure drop else there's a leak.

And the oil is supposed to be designed to resist corrosion in a gearbox that might get water in it, so I use Mercruiser High Performance Gear Lube, there are other similar products out there.

 

[grhonk]

Pressure test before filling with oil, lol, through the fill port in the cone. Pump up with air and watch for pressure decay, hopefully no pressure drop else there's a leak.

And the oil is supposed to be designed to resist corrosion in a gearbox that might get water in it, so I use Mercruiser High Performance Gear Lube, there are other similar products out there.

OK. I haven't fill her yet, but what device do you use to hold the pressure for half an hour? It would seem you would need a pressure gauge with the correct set screw threads on the end of it. Is this something that the dealership sells, or is everyone making their own kit?

Something from AutoZone maybe?

Do you need to seal the pressure gauge's threads?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

OK. I haven't fill her yet, but what device do you use to hold the pressure for half an hour? It would seem you would need a pressure gauge with the correct set screw threads on the end of it. Is this something that the dealership sells, or is everyone making their own kit?

Something from AutoZone maybe?

Do you need to seal the pressure gauge's threads?

I guess everyone uses their pop-off pump with the appropriate fitting(s), looks like a 1/8" pipe thread to me but take your threaded pump plug with you to lowes for a fitting match, needs to be exact same thread. I just use the same one I've used for over a decade, looks like 1/8" pipe thread to me. I've got the entire mercruiser stern drive service tool set, and it has a vacuum and pressure pump in it, I check both vacuum and pressure on the stern drives when I find water in them or if I replace the lip seals. I think some guys make a manifold and use their air compressors but just a couple pumps with a simple hand pump is all that's necessary, even a bicycle pump will do.

I guess if the threads leak or if your valve in your pump leaks, your test results won't be representative of yothe condition of the seals in your jet pump so you might find it necessary to use thread sealer, my pump has an o-ring seal on it.

 

[Guest_User]

and do not over pressurize, it will ruin the seal.

I used a hand held bicycle pump with gauge built in. pump to 10 psi and let sit for 15-20 minutes if there is a rapid drop in pressure there is a leak, if the pressure holds with only 1-2 psi loss your good to go...
McMaster sells schrader valves for 1/8 npt thread.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#schrader-valves/=ojffdb

 

[grhonk]

I guess everyone uses their pop-off pump with the appropriate fitting(s), looks like a 1/8" pipe thread to me but take your threaded pump plug with you to lowes for a fitting match, needs to be exact same thread. I just use the same one I've used for over a decade, looks like 1/8" pipe thread to me. I've got the entire mercruiser stern drive service tool set, and it has a vacuum and pressure pump in it, I check both vacuum and pressure on the stern drives when I find water in them or if I replace the lip seals. I think some guys make a manifold and use their air compressors but just a couple pumps with a simple hand pump is all that's necessary, even a bicycle pump will do.

I guess if the threads leak or if your valve in your pump leaks, your test results won't be representative of yothe condition of the seals in your jet pump so you might find it necessary to use thread sealer, my pump has an o-ring seal on it.

Thanks a bunch! I think I will look into a schrader valve, though. So, if you see a rapid drop in pressure, does this mean you need to change the seal in the pump? Keep in mind, there is no such thing as a stupid question. If there's a big leak, wouldn't all the oil have leaked out by now?

 

[grhonk]

I guess everyone uses their pop-off pump with the appropriate fitting(s), looks like a 1/8" pipe thread to me but take your threaded pump plug with you to lowes for a fitting match, needs to be exact same thread. I just use the same one I've used for over a decade, looks like 1/8" pipe thread to me. I've got the entire mercruiser stern drive service tool set, and it has a vacuum and pressure pump in it, I check both vacuum and pressure on the stern drives when I find water in them or if I replace the lip seals. I think some guys make a manifold and use their air compressors but just a couple pumps with a simple hand pump is all that's necessary, even a bicycle pump will do.

I guess if the threads leak or if your valve in your pump leaks, your test results won't be representative of yothe condition of the seals in your jet pump so you might find it necessary to use thread sealer, my pump has an o-ring seal on it.

Thanks a bunch! I think I will look into a schrader valve, though. So, if you see a rapid drop in pressure, does this mean you need to change the seal in the pump? Keep in mind, there is no such thing as a stupid question. If there's a big leak, wouldn't all the oil have leaked out by now?

 

[Guest_User]

Thanks a bunch! I think I will look into a schrader valve, though. So, if you see a rapid drop in pressure, does this mean you need to change the seal in the pump? Keep in mind, there is no such thing as a stupid question. If there's a big leak, wouldn't all the oil have leaked out by now?

you would see a milky color oil if the seal was bad as well as a loss of fluid or overfilled from water ingestion. just depends on what you see when you change the oil.
Dark oil is ok, as long as it doesn`t smell terribly burnt, you should be fine. Milky oil, you have a bad seal, could be from the seal behind the impeller and/or the tail cone O ring, or allen plug.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Thanks a bunch! I think I will look into a schrader valve, though. So, if you see a rapid drop in pressure, does this mean you need to change the seal in the pump? Keep in mind, there is no such thing as a stupid question. If there's a big leak, wouldn't all the oil have leaked out by now?

If you had a leak, not only would lubricant leak out but most likely would find water in the cavity, likely with rusted bearings if the water was in there long enough.

There are two seals, including the lip seal around the impeller shaft, and the one you just disturbed to drain the oil. The third potential leak point would be the fill plug itself assuming the cavity isn't cracked or broken from mechanical damage such as water inside freezing and expanding, which is unlikely if the cavity was leak free.

 

[grhonk]

If you had a leak, not only would lubricant leak out but most likely would find water in the cavity, likely with rusted bearings if the water was in there long enough.

There are two seals, including the lip seal around the impeller shaft, and the one you just disturbed to drain the oil. The third potential leak point would be the fill plug itself assuming the cavity isn't cracked or broken from mechanical damage such as water inside freezing and expanding, which is unlikely if the cavity was leak free.

OK. All great help in understanding these Jet Skis. Thanks a million. I can't emphasize enough how great this website is for the new Jet Ski owner. My oil came out black and stinky.

I was looking around for a good accurate 10 PSI gauge and came up short at Lowes and Home Depot. Will look at Harbor Freight and some precision tools places later this week. Most gauges start out at 20 psi and range up to 100 psi. Is there a good judgement call on 10 psi that I am overlooking? Like blowing until your cheeks puff out? My bicycle pump can pump up to 80 psi, so I don't want to use that. Any ideas on buying the right type of gauge that is accurate at 10 psi and can detect a drop of 2 psi?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

OK. All great help in understanding these Jet Skis. Thanks a million. I can't emphasize enough how great this website is for the new Jet Ski owner. My oil came out black and stinky.

I was looking around for a good accurate 10 PSI gauge and came up short at Lowes and Home Depot. Will look at Harbor Freight and some precision tools places later this week. Most gauges start out at 20 psi and range up to 100 psi. Is there a good judgement call on 10 psi that I am overlooking? Like blowing until your cheeks puff out? My bicycle pump can pump up to 80 psi, so I don't want to use that. Any ideas on buying the right type of gauge that is accurate at 10 psi and can detect a drop of 2 psi?

I think you can use the bike pump if you have a gauge on the test port then just stop pumping at 10psi, one pump will probably be more than you need depending on the volume of the pump.

Harbor freight should have a gauge you can use. For example, this one on ebay is a vacuum and pressure gauge that only goes to 10psi, so it wouldn't work well for measuring pop-off obviously, but at least you can measure vacuum with it if you have the need at some point:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACCURATE-EN...US_Measuring_Layout_Tools&hash=item27d808be80

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

This gauge has a range you could use for pressure test and pop-off check:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Oil-F...d=100009&prg=1088&rk=3&rkt=5&sd=270855932036&

 

[grhonk]

This gauge has a range you could use for pressure test and pop-off check:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Oil-F...d=100009&prg=1088&rk=3&rkt=5&sd=270855932036&

Ok. Thanks for the ideas. I'll visit a local precision tool store in Detroit .. got to find something there. Where do most people purchase their pop-off gauges?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Ok. Thanks for the ideas. I'll visit a local precision tool store in Detroit .. got to find something there. Where do most people purchase their pop-off gauges?

I'm not sure where they get theirs these days exactly, I've had my pumps/gauges for many years now. Can probably get some ideas from this link:

http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=mikuni+pop+off+gauge

 

[Guest_User]

http://www.shopsbt.com/jetski_repair_tools/80-350.html