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Challenger Winterizing

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pl_dwsn

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My first winter with this challenger. People that live in a below 0 winter please chime in. Do I need to tie the hoses up and put antifreeze in, or can I drain all of the water out and call it good. The boat will be sitting in an insulated building. Also....On the rear flush port, is this supposed to have a plug in it? If I am reading the manual right, this should be left open and it is a relief for the cylinder top. Mine is plugged right now and I hook up the hose to the top flush port behind the drivers seat. Should the bottom rear flush port be plugged or open? (96 challenger)
 
Plugged....?

That water hose fitting type flush port should be left open at all times. This is our open loop cooling water outlet. If you plug it, then the only water leaving your engine during operation is through your tail tell tube and the water injection to the exhaust. I'm surprised you didn't get the over heat alarm.

You asked about winterizing. There are a gazillion threads on this and a few stickies. But, since you took the time to actually PM me, that means you have some concerns about your boat, I can appreciate that.

Your motor, the Rotax, uses the total loss cooling system. You should not have to worry about busting a block, etc.... like you would from a car. But, there are pockets where water can sit up and freeze. Therefore, we add antifreeze to our engines.

If you are going to store in an insulted building, you could do away with winterizing all together, especially if you could start the motor once every two weeks. On the nights when temps will fall below zero, you can place a light build in the engine compartment, aft of the PTO, pointed toward the motor. You must use extreme caution in this situation if your boat has any kind of fuel build up or leaks into the hull.

If you want to winterize, the battery should be removed when you finish with all your steps and kept in an area above freezing with no extreme temp changes.

Looking at the engine, you have 2 hoses connected to the head. The one on the left goes it your water supply from the pump. Pinch that hose. On the port side of the engine, you have a small line, usually clear or discolored over time, that is coming from your cylinders to the rear exhaust water box. Pinch that hose too. Now, looking inside the engine compartment, where the upper flush connection and the one you see going out the back come together, pinch the one going out the back.

Go to your auto parts house and buy a gallon of that 50/50 premixed coolant. Pour this in with a funnel where you would normally connect the hose for flushing until you see if come out the "tale tell" line, which is the highest point of your motor.

Now, un-pinch all your hoses I mentioned to pinch. Most of the coolant will run back out but the areas of pockets will now be protected from freezing.

You should use WD-40 to liberally spray the entire engine, this will provide a moisture barrier and keep rust from forming.

Last, I use a Lithium Spray, which you can get from your local auto parts house. Lithium is a grease used during engine rebuilds. It also provides a barrier where metal to metal parts meet. This will too keep rust from forming. Take out your plugs and spray it inside the plug holes. It's a good idea to grab your PTO hub (take off the cover) and spin it counterclockwise when you are doing this. You do not need to use that expensive "bombardier fogging spray".......also, spray a bit through your carbs, air box removed. This will put some grease protectant on your rotary valve.........:cheers:
 
As always, great write up Snipe.

Only thing I would change is to use a RV type of anti freeze that's safer for the environment. That way in the spring you're not putting regular car anti freeze into the water. It's the same price and easy to get - doing our part to keep our waters clean :)
 
In the 'storage' section of my shop manual, there is a recommendation to change the lubircant in the impellor shaft reservoir. Is this a good idea to do this annually, or is it BRP just trying to sell more of its over-priced XPS Synthetic Jet Pump oil?

I also see that they recommend greasing the PTO flywheel. Probably not a bad idea either.
 
Further investigation of my shop manual reveals that changing the jet pump oil is a bit involved. Perhaps I am misinterpreting the steps involved, but it doesn't look like something that weas meant to be for annual maintenance. Thoughts anyone on how often the jet pump oil needs to be replaced?
 
I should think before I post. After inspecting the jet, changing jet oil doesn't appear to be that big an operation. Karl's post from May of this year also helps a lot (you fellas should be writing the shop manuals). Nonetheless, should this be done annually... more specifically when winterizing?
 
The jet pump oil should be changed or at least checked as part of the winterizing process. If you have any water that seeped into the the pump assy., it could either freeze and cause damage or corrode the bearings.
If you change it, use Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyester Oil or similar.

Karl
 
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