Challenger 1800 questions

[enut]

I picked up a 1998 Challenger 1800. I have two questions on it after taking it out.

1. The Starboard engine, tends to stall out at low idle <1k-2k rpm. At higher idle, it will keep running fine. Could this be just an adjustment or a carb rebuild?

2. The Starboard engine just before I took it out on the water, leaked a lot of oil out of the exhaust. After I came back home and flushed both engines out, the Starboard engine did not leak oil anymore. This is the first time I took the boat on the water. The previous owner had said he did not have it out for 3 years. Is this normal?

Other wise the boat was good.

Thanks

 

[Dr Honda]

If it's been parked for 3 years... yes... oil out the exhaust will be normal. The oil got into the engine via the rotary valve seals. Sometimes they hydro lock from the oil. It should be fine now.

Since they have been siting... I would rebuild the carbs on both engines. Since it has 2-stroke engines... the fuel is it's life blood. If it runs lean, you don't properly transport the oil, and you will overheat the piston crowns. (causing a meltdown)

 

[enut]

When I disconnect the fuel and oil lines, should I replace those otiker clamps with regular screw style clamps? What do you guys do in this situation?

Also, I am unsure how to disconnect the choke cables. Do they somehow slide out of the holes in what looks like hex nuts. I am pretty handy, but I don't want to break something.

Thanks

 

[enut]

One more thing, is there some good techniques to working on these boats? Do most of you work leaning over the rear seat practically upside down as you are working on these engines? Or is there some other trick, It is tough on the back after awhile.

 

[Dr Honda]

Nope... no tricks. You will be hanging from the rear seat most of the time. (or the side)

The choke cable is held into the choke arms with a very small grub screw (Set screw) in the side of the arm. Once you loosen the set screws... the rod will slide out.


Oketer clams suck, and without the proper tools... you can't put them back on. SO... we just use regular screw type hose clamps. Make sure they are stainless. I just replaced a bunch of clamps that were supposed to be stainless, but they rusted in one year, and some actually broke. The only exception to this is on the small oil injection hoses. (if you replace them) We just use good, small zip-ties.