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Carbon Seal replacement - Problem planing and water leak 96 sportster

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larrybr45

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It appears with my periodic inability to get on a plane with 3 people, and water leak issue, I will need to replace the carbon seal.

I am not the best mechanically, this sounds very tough to do. Is this something that a novice can do ok?

Then, doing some research here, I had some questions to make sure I have the right parts. Some of the parts may have overlapped repairs others were doing that is why I want to be sure I get the right parts.

1. I noticed on one of the threads it mentioned changing a neoprene seal when changing the carbon seal. Is this true, or does this seal not get replaced?

2. Should a new boot be put in regardless of the condition of the existing one?

3. With the repair, strong zip ties can be used on the boot, no screw clamps or oetiker clamps needed?

4. I saw a couple threads mention replacing driveshaft bumpers with rubber pieces with holes in them. Should these be changed out during the repair?

5. Finally, I should order 2 of the same size o-rings, and then the other o-ring for a total of 3. Is that correct?

thanks for everyones help!
lar
 
It appears that you have four threads going, all on the same subject, lets pick one and stick to it.

Question 1, yes when ever you remove the pump, which is necessary when changing the carbon seal you need to use a new neoprene gasket.

Question 2, yes, if you're going to all the trouble to change the carbon seal change the bellows also.

Question 3, use the original hose clamps on the bellows, if you are also replacing the rubber boot a quality zip tie is fine.

Question 4, if the driveshaft bumpers are missing or noticeably worn replace them.

Question 5, I'm thinking the third "O" ring has been replaced with a clip.

Lou
 
Thanks.

Looking at SBT driveline kit for my 96 sportster. It has oring instead of the metal clip in it. THey do sell another kit that has the metal clip...Am i ok to use the oring or should i get the clip? Also, it does not have a neoprene gasket you have talked about, where do I get this as I dont see on my parts list for the driveline?

Finally, for the wear ring, SBT has a kit for $40 78-101-02 that has a ring and a neoprine seal. The ring looks white and is made out of something called Delrin. I hear only use seadoo parts as only they fit and the ring is black. Is this ring ok to use??
 
The metal clip is better and less chance of it coming off, use the metal. Personally I would use a oem seadoo wear ring, I like how they fit better and are more true to size.
 
Well, I got the metal holder to move back using pry bar, and cut out a no ring I had. I am looking to put in the c ring. But, how do I get the pump off the easiest way so that I can take out the old carbon ring etc. from the shaft? The instructions said to remove pump once I cut the oring holding the steel piece. How in the world does the pump come off easy?

Thanks
Lar
 
Ok, I got the pump off, what a PITA! Next time I will buy the removal tool I think. Couple things....

Noticed a LOT of caulk, kind of a blue tint to it. What type of caulk should I use when putting the pump back on?

My long blue pipe is kind of broken at end near pump nothing appears ready to come off, just missing a couple small pieces at the end. is this a big deal?

What type of grease to use at each of the shaft ends?

Do I need a seal for the through the hull blue/black piece? This wont budge at all.

thanks!
Lar
 
Ok, I got the pump off, what a PITA! Next time I will buy the removal tool I think. Couple things....

Noticed a LOT of caulk, kind of a blue tint to it. What type of caulk should I use when putting the pump back on?

My long blue pipe is kind of broken at end near pump nothing appears ready to come off, just missing a couple small pieces at the end. is this a big deal?

What type of grease to use at each of the shaft ends?

Do I need a seal for the through the hull blue/black piece? This wont budge at all.

thanks!
Lar
 
There shouldn't be any caulk, your pump mounts to the ride plate and has a neoprene seal, part no. 5. If you need to use a sealant, use only at the penetrations use a silicone sealant.

The blue sleeve is the shaft protector, if it's broken just throw it away.

Grease, marine or waterproof grease, I use the same stuff I use for the trailer bearings.

Not sure about the "blue/black" piece, can you locate on the parts drawing or post a picture.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...=176&b=15&c=0&d=-PROPULSION-SYSTEM---INTERNAL

It would probably be a good idea to download a shop manual for your boat, you can get one from this site if you join as a premium member or you can just google for one.

Lou
 
Thanks for the quick reply. Mine had caulk everywhere. I am shocked it is not needed. I got caulk between bolt holes, edges of everything, everywhere! Took forever to get off.....if you don't feel it is needed I won't caulk the pump then too the boat.

Thx
Lar
 
O.K., you will need the neoprene gasket, and you will need to use a silicone sealer just where the hose connections penetrate the hull, one for the cooling water feed to the motor, and one for the bailer tube connections.

Lou
 

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I got to the point where I got the impeller removed. I had the pump held in a vise by the bottom of the impeller shaft and used an impeller removal tool. I started on the wear ring using a chisel to create a cut in the ring.

Well, I was chiseling the wear ring and then somehow the pump housing can be pulled up with the impeller shaft still in the vise. This is the screw that the impeller screws onto. Did I knock something out like a holding ring or something? Once the impeller has been removed is this normal for the impeller shaft to come right out of the pump housing if pulled?

Just worried I popped out some clamp that holds the impeller shaft to the pump. THinking if I put the impeller back on I somehow broke something and will mess things up worse. I looked around and cannot find any kind of ring or anything that might have popped off the impeller shaft. I have a 1996 sportster (one engine) seadoo....

thx
lar :angelsad:
 
I got to the point where I got the impeller removed. I had the pump held in a vise by the bottom of the impeller shaft and used an impeller removal tool. I started on the wear ring using a chisel to create a cut in the ring.

Well, I was chiseling the wear ring and then somehow the pump housing can be pulled up with the impeller shaft still in the vise. This is the screw that the impeller screws onto. Did I knock something out like a holding ring or something? Once the impeller has been removed is this normal for the impeller shaft to come right out of the pump housing if pulled?

Just worried I popped out some clamp that holds the impeller shaft to the pump. THinking if I put the impeller back on I somehow broke something and will mess things up worse. I looked around and cannot find any kind of ring or anything that might have popped off the impeller shaft. I have a 1996 sportster (one engine) seadoo....

thx
lar :angelsad:

Mine is 2001 sportster le. The shaft does come off free with impeller removed.
So you are good. Did you find your baby teeth LoL.
 
I need help. I am at the end of this BUT, I have to put on the metal clip. I cannot get the stainless steel piece to go back far enough to put the clip on. I am trying to wedge with crow bar. Need about 1/4 inch to still go.

Any suggestions?
Can I put the clip on the shaft THEN put on the boot, carbon seal etc? (Of course for this I need to take pump back off and shaft out.

Any help would be appreciated.:facepalm:
 
Just checking in to see if anyone has thoughts.....I need help. I am at the end of this process of new wear ring and carbon seal, BUT, I have to put on the metal clip. I cannot get the stainless steel piece to go back far enough to put the clip on. I am trying to wedge with crow bar. Need about 1/4 inch to still go.

Any suggestions?
Can I put the clip on the shaft THEN put on the boot, carbon seal etc? (Of course for this I need to take pump back off and shaft out.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
I would think that would work. It fits when it is assembled so it should go back together like that as well.


Repairing and selling iPads, iPhones and Mini iPads.
 
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