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Carbon Seal Carrier
- Thread starter Jnz
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Waterluvr
New Member
The stainless carrier ring is retained from sliding any closer to the pto by either a metal c-clip or an o-ring that is indexed in or around a groove in the drive shaft and the outer edge of the carrier just slides over it. That prevents the pressure from the bellows moving it any further and seals the stainless carrier to the face of the carbon seal.
The c-clip will replace the o-ring in older boats, and some shafts have two grooves versus one to mount the clip closer to the transom to provide additional pressure to the stainless carrier and carbon seal against the bellows.
To service that seal assembly, you need to push the stainless carrier towards the bellows to compress it and that will expose the c-clip (or o-ring) in the shaft groove. Pop the clip out of the groove (or cut away the o-ring) and it will slide forward towards the pto and allow the bellows to relax. You can remove the shaft from the boat once the carrier is no longer being retained by the clip or o-ring.
Replace the older style o-ring on the driveshaft with the newer c-clip if you find one, there are two thinner o-rings inside the stainless carrier that seal it to the shaft that should be inspected and replaced as needed and inspect the face of the carbon seal for smooth even wear patterns.
The face of carbon ring can be resurfaced if it's badly grooved to regain a better seal against the stainless carrier.
If the carrier won't move at all towards the bellows it's frozen in place on the shaft, penetrant and a large adjustable wrench can put enough pressure on it to break it free and get it moved far enough to remove the retainer.
The c-clip will replace the o-ring in older boats, and some shafts have two grooves versus one to mount the clip closer to the transom to provide additional pressure to the stainless carrier and carbon seal against the bellows.
To service that seal assembly, you need to push the stainless carrier towards the bellows to compress it and that will expose the c-clip (or o-ring) in the shaft groove. Pop the clip out of the groove (or cut away the o-ring) and it will slide forward towards the pto and allow the bellows to relax. You can remove the shaft from the boat once the carrier is no longer being retained by the clip or o-ring.
Replace the older style o-ring on the driveshaft with the newer c-clip if you find one, there are two thinner o-rings inside the stainless carrier that seal it to the shaft that should be inspected and replaced as needed and inspect the face of the carbon seal for smooth even wear patterns.
The face of carbon ring can be resurfaced if it's badly grooved to regain a better seal against the stainless carrier.
If the carrier won't move at all towards the bellows it's frozen in place on the shaft, penetrant and a large adjustable wrench can put enough pressure on it to break it free and get it moved far enough to remove the retainer.
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It can be very hard to get the collar to move. Even when it does, it is still a struggle. If you loosen the hose clamps and break the boot loose, it often helps.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Should the stainless seal carrier that butts against the carbon ring move freely? I pulled the shafts out the front with engines removed. Now with engines in I need to get these apart to install these through the rear.
Picture is from Google, but of the same situation.
Not sure exactly how yours is set up but...
My 951 boat has a c-clip that fits in a groove in the drive shaft and captured under the stainless ring so it cannot be slung out, there are also two o-rings under the stainless ring in grooves further aft of the c-clip that keep water from penetrating.
edit:
I just noticed you removed the shaft and need to reinstall it.
You will need to slide the stainless ring toward the pump end of the shaft so you can remove the retaining c-clip, insert the shaft through the thru-hull fitting and slide the stainless ring over the shaft from inside the bilge.
Once the pump is back on the transom then you slide the stainless ring aftward against the tensioning bellows and install the c-clip.
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Most have to tap it. It gets stuck on there pretty well. Use some spray lubricant and tap away. An open end wrench helps as you can slip it over the skinny part of the collar and hit the wrench with a hammer to get it broke free. When you re-install it, put some marine grease in the collar and that will help to prevent it from seizing
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
There is no doubt some corrosion under the stainless ring which makes it hard to slide toward the pump end of the shaft, you only need to slide it that direction by about 1/4 inch in order to remove the c-clip.
Some penetrating oil (ATF) will make it easier to slide the stainless ring.
Try not to bend the stainless ring unless you plan on replacing it, if it's bent it won't seal against the carbon ring.
Some penetrating oil (ATF) will make it easier to slide the stainless ring.
Try not to bend the stainless ring unless you plan on replacing it, if it's bent it won't seal against the carbon ring.
Robert Mooberry
New Member
Some people when they doo maintenance on this part go back to the double seal bearing. Go to keep it lubed, but it seals better.
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