Carbon Ring Changeout

[m.colley]

Just wanted to say thanks to Dr. Honda and all the other members that have posted their experiences and know how with changing their carbon ring. Last time I had the boat out I noticed some cavitation and even more a water leak between the stainless ring and carbon ring and knew I needed to change it. I did my research and found several posts on the subject but the one that explained it best was this one http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...rbon-ring-seal-replacement-tutorial-by-chance. It showed me exactly what I had to do, including using a 2x4 and pry bar to help encourage a stubborn stainless ring back to gain access to the c clip. After a few busted knuckles and swearing sessions I was finally able to get the stainless ring back far enough to get to the clip. Everything went pretty easy after that..
Thanks again everyone for all your previous posts..


Martin

BTW, here's what the carbon ring looked like once I got it out. The face has a couple of good gouges in it and looks to be the source of problems.

 

[Dr Honda]

Glad it worked out, and that we could help. :thumbsup:

 

[mlebauer]

I just completed the routine today, using the good Dr.'s procedure. Like everything, it looks easier than it turned out!

The biggest puzzle was the rubber plug at the PTO end of the shaft. It popped out on entirely on one side and partially on the other. I had to figure out how to keep it in place while pushing the shaft back through. With all the grease it wouldn't stay, even after cleaning the grease off. Solution was to put a piece of tissue in the hole at the end of the shaft.. I assume having that bit of tissue won't be a problem, I figured it will get soaked with grease and dissolve over time. The other where the plug hung slightly wouldn't go into the PTO all the way, had to take the pump back out & straighten the plug. I assume those plugs are needed so the shaft doesn't hit metal on either end.

Getting the new clip on was harder than getting the old out, the new rubber boot was stiff and the ring snapped back, forcing a painful session of pushing hard with 2 hands, straining hard with one hand to keep the boot compressed, and quickly pushing the new ring in place. Sore wrists & fingers were the result. Is that normal?

 

[dbracela]

A third hand comes in handy while putting the c-clip on, just need someone to wrap themselves around you while you both work in there.

What I do for the rubber bumper is to use a 1cc syringe with a small gauge needle, stick it through the centre "hole" and suck the bumper into place. The rubber seals as I pull the needle out, creating a vacuum in there and leaving the bumper snugly in place. Hit up a local drug store, a medic, your doc, or your local crack whore for the required supplies.

 

[mlebauer]

Good idea on the syringe, dbracela. If I have to go back in I'll try that approach, assuming I can get a crack whore to give it up. :rofl:

Which I may have to do.

How critical are the o-rings inside the stainless ring? I forgot to put them in. I'm fearing the worst, that I have to do that whole procedure over again. :facepalm:

 

[dbracela]

Forgot to put new ones in as in you left the old ones in there, or as in there is nothing in there at all?

 

[mlebauer]

I put in a new stainless ring, do the o-rings go inside it or on the shaft? I didn't remove any old rings.

 

[racerxxx]

If you don't have o rings she's gonna leak. Also, here are the good bumpers, they have a hole in them to let the air out.

http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=3367

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2

 

[racerxxx]

I put in a new stainless ring, do the o-rings go inside it or on the shaft? I didn't remove any old rings.

2 go inside

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2

 

[mlebauer]

I'm depressed thinking about it. And it's a twin engine. At least I know what I'm doing this time.

 

[dbracela]

I didn't know they sold bumpers with holes in them. I'm going to order some.

Sucks that you have to pull them again, but it'll be quick now that you know what you're doing. Racerxxx is right, it'll leak if you don't have them in there.

 

[racerxxx]

I'm depressed thinking about it. And it's a twin engine. At least I know what I'm doing this time.

You'll get the hang of it, it's about a 45 minute job total. Not sure how you take the pumps apart but I remove both the clam shells, steering nozzles, and both pump nozzles all as one unit, then I just drop each pump separately. Don't forget to undo the clips first. IIRC its like 10 pieces of hardware to get the steering apart, then the 8 nuts on the pumps. Piece of cake, a few more times under your belt and you'll be saying "Wow that was easy." Pay attention to the little seals on the pump for the water inlet when you pull the pumps, don't want to lose one of those. Then get another set of hands , or use your knee(my method) to steady the other side when you're putting it back together. Make sure the driveshaft bumpers stay in place too.


Part# 32 is what you don't want to lose.

 

[mlebauer]

Oh, I've taken the pumps off multiple times, but...45 mins? For 2 pumps? You're a speed demon! I just invested in a drill bit adapter set for the job, at least can get the nuts and bolts off faster (won't put them on that way tho...could overtighten).

Yeah, I take the whole steering nozzle/reverse-neutral flapper thing off as 1 unit after disconnecting the reverse and steering cables. And usually use my knees, wife & kids like to ride it, not work on it. Sometimes one of the boys helps but they get bored easily.

"Pay attention to the little seals on the pump for the water inlet when you pull the pumps"
What seals? The flush inlet port? Never paid attention to that, but so far haven't had a problem with it (that I know of). But, as you can see, I'm seal challenged.

 

[dbracela]

The seal, part #32 in the schematic he gave you, is basically a rubber o-ring with a lip on it. It seals the water inlet on the pump to the shoe so that you don't pull in any air, just cooling water. The PO of my boat just used regular o rings, but the OEM ones I received were white.