Carbon ring and stainless steel piece

[bigtexan99]

Is my driveshaft in okay shape? (pics included)

I'm in the process of rebuilding my drivetrain to put an end to the cavitation I've been experiencing and will be posting a few different threads today on the various components.

Here are some pics of the driveshaft. The splines on both ends seem okay, but there is some rust in the middle. Is their still life for this driveshaft? Should I leave it as is or can I service it somehow?




Thanks!

 

[bigtexan99]

Wear Ring or impeller out of round?

I'm in the process of rebuilding my drivetrain to put an end to the cavitation I've been experiencing and will be posting a few different threads today on the various components.

Here are some pics of my impeller, the dark photo shows the issue. If you look at ring as a clock face, the 6, 9, and 12 oclock areas have pretty good gap tolerances of .20. At the 3 clock position, the gap tolerance goes up to .50!

If the prop is rotated, the gap stays at the 3 clock position so I'm thinking its not the prop thats warped, but the wear ring is either worn or out of round?

Appreciate your input!




I'll try and upload a Video of the impeller rotating. There is a 'ding' sound that occurs at every revolution.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3YepRZPJ3nLR3l2OUNnRjdyNGs/view?usp=sharing

 

[bigtexan99]

Blue plastic driveshaft protector thru hull

I'm in the process of rebuilding my drivetrain to put an end to the cavitation I've been experiencing and will be posting a few different threads today on the various components.

Here are some photos of the blue plastic driveshaft protector. I previously had cut off chucks of it on the impeller side of the hull.

Question, now that I've got the driveshaft out should I remove the blue piece completely or leave the piece that is thru the hull? On the inside of the hull it has four little plastic arms that are keeping it in place.

Thanks so much for you advice.

UPDATE: I have completely removed the blue plastic shaft protector from the boat.

 

[bigtexan99]

I'm in the process of rebuilding my drivetrain to put an end to the cavitation I've been experiencing and will be posting a few different threads today on the various components.

The carbon ring only has about 15 hours on it. Do you think it needs to be replaced? What about the stainless piece. It looks okay to me, but I don't want to have to take it all apart to do it again if I still have cavitation!



As far as the bellow / accordion, I cut that piece off so I could move the stainless ring back to remove the C clip, so I'll clearly need to get a new bellows.

I've been so frustrated with the cavitation issue, I just want to have the boat run like its supposed too! Thanks!!

 

[racerxxx]

If it's OK with you I want to combine all 4 of your threads on your cavitation issue. It doesn't make sense to me to keep track of 4 threads that all pertain to the same problem.

 

[MLars]

I think it's fine. My speedster I rebuilt this summer was used in saltwater prior to being put in storage for the next 8 years. When I changed the carbon seal my driveshafts were completely brown in the middle from rust, but the splines were clean and shiny, so as long as those are fine you should be good to go

 

[bigtexan99]

Well sure, you can do what you want.

The only reason I made separate posts, is because in the past if I ask a multi-part question sometimes only one part gets answered and I have to repost a followup for the second question or someone says "make a separate post for a different question".

But as long as I'm getting free advice, either way is fine with me! :thumbsup:

 

[bigtexan99]

Thanks Mlars! Should I bother sanding / wire brush scrubbing and painting it with rustoleum spray paint?

 

[racerxxx]

As Mlars said, the driveshaft is fine. I bead blast and powdercoat mine that look like that. So, sure you could paint it up.


I've never been a fan of that delrin wear ring in the old all plastic140 pumps. I know guys have used them but, in an all plastic pump like yours they just are out of round sometimes...the pump that is. Personally I would try an OEM wear ring, look on ebay and only buy one in OEM packaging, there are knock-off that look almost identical.

Ditch the blue shaft protector, that is causing major disturbances in there being broken. They're glued in, so just get it back the the hull as close as you can and just leave the rest in the thru hull fitting.


On to the stainless collar.....15 hours???????????? That thing looks like its been run dry for hours, or is just the carbon side 15 hours? Regardless, follow the link, that is what you want, hands down they are the bomb!

http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=595_602_2&products_id=4


Sorry for the delay in the posts.

 

[bigtexan99]

I've never been a fan of that delrin wear ring in the old all plastic140 pumps....

Ditch the blue shaft protector....


On to the stainless collar.....15 hours???????????? That thing looks like its been run dry for hours, or is just the carbon side 15 hours....

I'll cut out some more of the blue plastic guard.

Is my pump a 140mm? I thought it was the 155mm?? I'll order the OEM wear ring. Think I"m gonna go with a Skat-Trak swirl impeller.

Yes, the carbon ring is only 15 hours but the stainless steel ring is probably original. I cleaned and wet-sanded it with some carb cleaner (after taking out the o-rings) and it looks much cleaner. Here is a new picture.

 

[racerxxx]

Oh yeah, my bad on the pump size.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

 

[bigtexan99]

Ordering some of the parts....

For the bellow, does it need to be OEM or will the 9 dollar one from SBT work okay?

 

[MLars]

I got an SBT driveline kit for mine and it's worked fine so far

 

[racerxxx]

Yeah, that looks way better on the ring.

As far as the parts go, if you're ordering that kit from OSD you might as well just get an OEM bellow from them. The $9 one from SBT will end up costing you the same when you factor in their shipping. I try and do a 1 stop shop. You're also talking to a 99% OEM guy. I dump tons of cash into my toys, I don't want to chase my butt on a potential issue. I learned long ago that it was easier to just pay up front and save the time on the back end. To each his own though.

 

[bigtexan99]

Thanks for all the tips and advice so far.

Did anyone watch the video I linked that showed me spinning the impeller? https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3YepRZPJ3nLR3l2OUNnRjdyNGs/view?usp=sharing What does that 'clink' sound mean? How do I know when its time to rebuild the impeller shaft bearing internals?

 

[Coastiejoe]

The video has no volume for me. In general, clicking is a bad bearing. No bad enough to seize, but it is beginning to fail.


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[howie099]

In that video that sounds like the impeller rubbing the wear ring which it common if it is new or the impeller has a nic in it. Does sound like a bearing since the sound only happens after every revolution.

 

[bigtexan99]

Thanks Howie....did you mean to say it "does" or "doesn't" sound like a bearing?

I kinda think it sounds like the blade on the ring myself, but I don't have any reference sound to compare it to.

 

[XP 787]

+1 on the OSD carbon ring setup. I had just a little cavitation swapped out carbon ring, bellows, and HD SS ring and this solved my problem.

 

[howie099]

It doesn't sound like a bearing. It sounds like the impeller is just rubbing the wear ring in that location. A bearing you would hear the grinding turning the impeller the whole time not just in one location every time. Plus you can feel the resistance in a bearing spinning it

 

[bigtexan99]

I got the impeller off today and that clicking noise was indeed the impeller on the wear ring. Pulled the shaft out and the bearings all look good inside the pump.

Question: What is this retaining ring for on the main driveshaft (part #18) for? I'm fairly certain it was not installed on mine, or if it was it fell off during removal and I can't find it. http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...ke=seadoojb&a=121&b=12&c=0&d=-DRIVESHAFT-ASSY.

Update: Never mind on the question about retaining ring part #18. It's part of the retaining clip for the blue plastic shaft protector, which I removed and won't be using. http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?20064-Drive-shaft-retaining-ring-what-is-it

 

[bigtexan99]

Update: got the OEM wear ring in today and it installed easy after puttin it in the freezer for an hour. Put everything back together and going to lake test tomorrow afternoon. Hopefully my cavitation issues will be gone. The wear ring and the impeller are TIGHT. No more big gap at the 3 oclock position so I'm guessing the wear ring I replaced was out of round.

My jet pump (155) has a large ribbed rubber gasket (#69) around it. Am I correct in thinking I don't need the flat neoprene ring that everyone talks about? There was not one there when I removed it. http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...ke=seadoojb&a=121&b=12&c=0&d=-DRIVESHAFT-ASSY

 

[racerxxx]

Yep, you need one. I would not rely on that lip alone. Every ounce of prevention you can do will lessen the chance of cavitation.

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[bigtexan99]

Final update:

Lake tested this morning and no cavitation! Jumps up on plane like a rabbit.

Thanks for everyone's help. I'm leaning toward the root cause being the bellows and/or the wear ring.