SurfBeat
Active Member
Last week, with SDF assistance from TimmyBoy and others, I removed the PTO (rear) carb from my 93 GTX to check out a possible carb problem; stall-out whenever I accellerated. (Because the MAG (front) carb looks like a PIA to remove, if a rebuild is necessary, I'll do that with the carb mounted and simply work at an angle)
When I disassembled the PTO carb I removed the internal filter (also removed the filter from the MAG carb) both appeared almost new; no gum, no debris, no tears to the mesh.
When I removed the diaphram, the metal ring attached thereto was 50% tarnished.
Clymers manual does not provide guidance on how to determine whether a diaphram is defective, so, I took it to the dealer who said "it was defective."
The dealer based his opinion by examining the metal ring on the diaphram which as stated above, was tarnished and according to the dealer, was caused by exposure to water.
Moreover, the dealer said, the Doo is 15 years old, so replace the damn diaphram; they only last soooo long!
When he told me the cost, I understood his care-free attitude; the damn diaphram cost $28.00 bucks, the valve body gasket another $25.00, (which mine looks brand new). I wondered, $53.00 for items that should not cost more than $50.00!!
He then said, a complete rebuild kit is $49.00. It appears a no brainer what to purchase, CONDITIONED that I even need a new diaphram.
Question: What should I do boyz? Is it time to replace the diaphram because of of discoloration of the metal ring, because of age, or both? The rubber on mine is flexable with no tears.
The internal parts of the carb are almost like new; a little black tarnish on the valve body.
The Mikuni rebuild kit does not have the correct Spring Arm, 115 grams. I need an 85 gm according to the SDF. (I want to be off to the River next week, so, no time to wait until July for the guy on SDF who sells rebuid kits to return to sell me his kit)
ALSO, and most import, my D*ck Head brother turned both the high and low speed screws while I wasn't watching.
Clymer's manual states the factory sets the low speed @ 1 & 1/2 turns.
QUESTION: Does one turn equal 360% which would require two turns of the wrist? Or, does one turn mean 180% which is actually one turn of the wrist and a 1/4 turn for the half-turn?
Do I simply set the the high speed screw at 0 and call it a day?
Do I examine the MAG carb to check what it is set at, then set the PTO carb same-o-same-o?
One final question. The valve body gasket is serrated on one side; does the serration face the inside of the carb or the valve body?
I sure would like to get this project done on one Doo tonight so I can get to the other tomorrow and finish the J O B!
It's been a learning experience with all the help I have received thus far. Almost done!!
When I disassembled the PTO carb I removed the internal filter (also removed the filter from the MAG carb) both appeared almost new; no gum, no debris, no tears to the mesh.
When I removed the diaphram, the metal ring attached thereto was 50% tarnished.
Clymers manual does not provide guidance on how to determine whether a diaphram is defective, so, I took it to the dealer who said "it was defective."
The dealer based his opinion by examining the metal ring on the diaphram which as stated above, was tarnished and according to the dealer, was caused by exposure to water.
Moreover, the dealer said, the Doo is 15 years old, so replace the damn diaphram; they only last soooo long!
When he told me the cost, I understood his care-free attitude; the damn diaphram cost $28.00 bucks, the valve body gasket another $25.00, (which mine looks brand new). I wondered, $53.00 for items that should not cost more than $50.00!!
He then said, a complete rebuild kit is $49.00. It appears a no brainer what to purchase, CONDITIONED that I even need a new diaphram.
Question: What should I do boyz? Is it time to replace the diaphram because of of discoloration of the metal ring, because of age, or both? The rubber on mine is flexable with no tears.
The internal parts of the carb are almost like new; a little black tarnish on the valve body.
The Mikuni rebuild kit does not have the correct Spring Arm, 115 grams. I need an 85 gm according to the SDF. (I want to be off to the River next week, so, no time to wait until July for the guy on SDF who sells rebuid kits to return to sell me his kit)
ALSO, and most import, my D*ck Head brother turned both the high and low speed screws while I wasn't watching.
Clymer's manual states the factory sets the low speed @ 1 & 1/2 turns.
QUESTION: Does one turn equal 360% which would require two turns of the wrist? Or, does one turn mean 180% which is actually one turn of the wrist and a 1/4 turn for the half-turn?
Do I simply set the the high speed screw at 0 and call it a day?
Do I examine the MAG carb to check what it is set at, then set the PTO carb same-o-same-o?
One final question. The valve body gasket is serrated on one side; does the serration face the inside of the carb or the valve body?
I sure would like to get this project done on one Doo tonight so I can get to the other tomorrow and finish the J O B!
It's been a learning experience with all the help I have received thus far. Almost done!!
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