Can a dentist dismantle and reassemble a speedster jet pump successfully?

[Nathan Mayo]

Here's the deal. My twin 1997 pumps are full of weeds and I can't figure out how else to clean them out. Motors will start, but will not wind up to full speed in the lake............just stay bogged down. I have a set of socket wrenches and the factory shop manual, complete with set-by-step info and pictures.........but the question is............Am I going to be sorry I attempted the job?

I've done a few tasks in the past that left me half dead and wishing I had paid a competent professional for what he already knows how to do. If you have done this procedure in the past and found it to be a cookbook walk in the park project, then please encourage me to forge ahead. If it is the "job from Hell" that should only be undertaken by a $100/hr boat mech.....please say so and save me from certain death before I start.

Thanks...............Nathan Mayo

PS: Root canals are not so tough................working on boats and cars.....that's pretty testy

 

[chucked]

Where are you located? I have an impacted wisdom tooth that needs to go.

 

[chucked]

Nvm, I see florida!

 

[ocod]

Cleaning out weeds from intake is as easy as flossing.

Just reach underneath b/w intake grate and look for weeds and pull them out.
If there's nothing there and boat cavities, it may be the wear ring or rings. It's the clearance b/w prop and ring too big.

You'll have to take off a few nuts and bolts off to get to pump to see wear ring.

 

[mlebauer]

I'm a software guy and managed the pump removal job. It's not so bad. Just be sure you have replacement neoprene seals (PN 293200024) for replacement. You might also change the pump cone oil while you have the pumps off.

Try to get the weeds out by crawling under with the boat on the trailer and pulling them through the intake, as ocod says. Trimming them to where they jam around the shaft in front of the impeller may be enough so that the engines can finish the job, when you get it back out.

If that doesn't work, removing the pumps is just 4 nuts, although the reverser gate/steering nozzle assembly is more fiddly with another 8 bolts plus reverser and steering cable connections. Pay attention to how things are put together as you remove them, especially the reverser cable and steering cable, the others are pretty clear. Use a wrench on each side of the reverser and steering cable connections to remove the nut and bolt attaching it to the assembly. Be careful not to lose the hardware and watch where the cable connects among all the washers! The reverser assembly comes off with 8 bolts screwed into the pump outlets. Don't bother taking the assembly apart, remove the 8 bolts and carefully put the whole thing on the ground with link rods still attached. Then work on each pump. After you remove the 4 nuts holding each pump to the shoe in the hull, pull each straight off the drive shaft. If there is silicone adhesive between the shoe and pump, and/or weeds tangled to the impeller, you will need to give it a good yank. You can chop up the weeds from the impellers in the pump and remove anything tangled around the shaft, which will now be exposed in the hull.

Check the impeller clearance to the wear ring (the plastic part of the pump surrounding the impellers) to see condition. If more than 1-1.5mm gap seen you should replace the wear rings, the boat will accelerate better.

If you want to change the pump oil, remove the drain plug in the pump cone, drain the oil, remove the cone bolts, and knock off gently with a rubber mallet. Make sure the cone is empty. Replace the o-ring (you can get the right size at a hardware store, or order PN 293300011) and put the cone back on, then replace bolts (with loctite). Fill the cones through the drain hole with 75W90 synthetic gear oil.

Remove adhesive backing from the neoprene seals and press to the hull where the pumps seat, then put each pump over the mounting holes pressed against the hull. Use loctite blue on all bolts and nuts when putting the pumps and the reverser assembly back. Start hand tightening, then wrench them down, doesn't need to be super tight but what's comfortably tight with a 3/8s ratchet. Then the reverser assembly. You might ask someone to hold it in place while you screw on the nuts, it's easier. Reattach the reverser cable the way it came off, and voila!

Sounds like a lot, but once you've done it you'll feel like a real wrencher, and you're less likely to break or lose anything than when wrenching in the engine compartment.

Good luck!

 

[bigJake]

Taking the pump off is very easy.

Once you got it all cleaned out, pack the intake grate full of gauze and walk way for like 30 minutes. Then come back and take the gauze out.

 

[m.colley]

taking off the pump is no where near as complicated as it sounds or as the manual may make it appear. After doing it the first time and then re assembling it you'll be an old pro at it. If your like me you'll then laugh at yourself and wonder why you doubted your ability..


Martin

 

[hess996]

If you have very basic knowledge you will be just fine. If this helps at all I own a window tint company and the most mechanical my knowledge was as was basic. I'm a few days away from posting my finished speedster project. 100% rebuild/modify from the trailer up.

 

[El Toro 33809]

Did you get this problem solved? Central Florida here too.