Can´t change modes in LCD cluster

[joakimeg]

Hello,

So I just bough a Seadoo GTX 2004 155 PWC with some drive shaft issues.
I have not had it on water, but wanted to scroll through the different info in the display. Like the runtime etc..
When I click the mode button nothing happens. The MAINT light comes up at start and the scooter beeps really loud. I have heard that the light is a easy reset. I do not know about the beep though.
Either way, does anyone know why I can´t scroll through? Could the cluster be bad? I can see some info after the MAINT light, but can´t change to other info.

- Thanks

 

[mkov608]

Yes, you probably have corrosion inside the cluster on the electrical connectors. It's happened to me twice.

 

[joakimeg]

Yes, you probably have corrosion inside the cluster on the electrical connectors. It's happened to me twice.

Can I just open it and remove the corrosion? You had the same symptomes?

 

[mkov608]

Possibly; it depends on the extent of the damage. Take your time if you are going to attempt to disassemble; you can't buy replacement parts.

I didn't have a problem w/ the mode button, but the the audible warning would sound randomly with no other indications. The corrosion inside was very bad; the cable that runs from the rear cannon plug to the circuit board was shot. I ended up replacing the information center (IC). I'm glad I kept the parts; I used them to fix the other IC on my other ski when the circuit board faulted.

 

[joakimeg]

Possibly; it depends on the extent of the damage. Take your time if you are going to attempt to disassemble; you can't buy replacement parts.

I didn't have a problem w/ the mode button, but the the audible warning would sound randomly with no other indications. The corrosion inside was very bad; the cable that runs from the rear cannon plug to the circuit board was shot. I ended up replacing the information center (IC). I'm glad I kept the parts; I used them to fix the other IC on my other ski when the circuit board faulted.

Is it hard to do? Is there any guides on it?
I do not want to break it, because new ones are so expensive. Would not be surprised if it is glued a lot...

 

[mkov608]

That depends on your skill level. I would say it's not difficult to disassemble and reassemble.

I've never seen a guide, and no glue is use when Sea-Do builds them.

 

[joakimeg]

That depends on your skill level. I would say it's not difficult to disassemble and reassemble.

I've never seen a guide, and no glue is use when Sea-Do builds them.

Okey, I have decent skill level, so shouldn't be a problem. Do you start from the back of it and loosen the screws to the different black holes?

 

[mkov608]

I use some automotive trim tools like these, and an o-ring tool.

https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Removal-Fastener-Removers-Strong/dp/B01KXN7LE6
https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-9843-R...528806047&sr=8-6&keywords=o+ring+removal+tool

1. There are eight screws on the back that hold plugs into the back of the housing at the corners (supposed to keep the water out of the screw holes). Under the plugs, there are four screws that hold the circuit board to the housing. Remove all of those screws first; the second lens will hold the motherboard in place. You can also remove the two screws holding the cannon plug to the housing.
2. Flip the cluster over and gently pull the black (or silver) bezel off the edge of the housing; use the trim tool here. If you look closely, you can see where the black bezel clips onto the housing. With the bezel removed, you have access to the first plastic lens.
3. Using your trim tools again, gently pry the first plastic lens from the housing by inserting the tool into the slots around the rim. Be very careful to pry a little at a time so you don't crack the plastic.
4. Using an o-ring tool, insert the tool between the edge of the housing and the rubber seal of the inner plastic lens. Again, be very careful, and take your time.
5. Remove the two screws that hold the cannon plug to the housing if you didn't do that in step 1.
6. Remove the motherboard and cable from the housing.

Post a picture where the cable connects to the cannon plug and a second picture of the bottom (as it sits in the ski) of the MB. That's where I had problems because these are the low points when the gauge is installed in the ski, and water collects here. If water gets in, these points sits in a bath and corrosion takes over.

OBTW, don't do this outside. Humidity in the air will be trapped inside the cluster when you put it back together; later it will condense and cause all sorts of problems.