Building new bunks, what to expect?

[scooper77515]

I don't want to do this in two trips. So, here is what I am planning to do. Let me know if there is an easier way to do it with only one trip to the dock.

Put boat in water, tie off to dock.

Bring all tools with me, drill, ratchets, wood, carpet, glue, staples, etc.

Pull off old bunks, and use as template for new bunks. Mainly, where to drill holes to line up with the hardware.

Countersink the bolts, so they lie below the surface of the carpeted bunk, bolt the bunks on, then carpet over the installed 2X4s. Possibly countersink with large enough hole to handle a washer???

I guess ride the boat for an hour or so to let the glued carpet dry (contact cement). Then take boat home.

The wife will be with me, in case she needs to run in to town to get new hardware or bolts while I stay back with the boat.

Never done this before, and cannot tell what kind of bolt is under the carpet and if they are countersunk or carriage bolts, so I need to have my bases covered or will end up having to leave the boat overnight (NOT! It wouldn't be there in the morning!)

Am I going to encounter something unexpected doing it this route?

Inspected the metal hardware yesterday and all looks good and reuseable. There is a rusted spot in the trailer I will be welding some angle iron to when I get it back home (even though it would be easier to do that with the boat OFF of it...)

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[needforspeed]

new bunks

I just put new bunks on my double pWC trailer. I just measured my old bunks, went to home depot and bought my Pressure Treated 2x4's and In/OUt door carpet and SS staples. I made up my bunks the night before. I wrapped all the wood and then folded the neds over like I was wrapping a christmas present and stapled them up. They actually came out really good. Then the next day I just installed them. It was pretty easy and only cost me $24.00. So if I were you I would make up the bunks the day before. If you are gluing, the glue would have plenty of time to dry. Then float off your boat @ the ramp and then just slap on the new bunks. Peice of cake.:hurray:

 

[scooper77515]

Did you put the bolts in first, and carpet over them... I guess that is what is throwing me off. I don't know how the bolts look on top of the 2x4 and under the carpet.

 

[kustomkarl]

Scott, it sounds like your making a huge project replacing the bunks. I do my bunk replacements in the driveway. Leave the trailer hooked up to the truck. Use a jack and jack up the boat. Use a jack stand under the boat in 2 places. Cut the old bolts off the bunk attachment to remove the bunk. Use the old one as a templet and drill out the holes. Use galvanized carriage bolts secure to the brackets. Wrap the bunks in carpet with stainless steel staples(glue is a waste of time) staple at the bottom side of the bunk. Bolt in place with flats,locks and nuts, all galvanized. Lower the boat...do the other side. Takes about 30 minutes per side.

Karl

 

[scooper77515]

I thought about doing it in the driveway on jacks, but my original question still stands...

Carriage bolts is part of the answer. Do I countersink them, or is the carpet over the hump of the bolt enough to keep it from wearing through the carpet and into the hull?

 

[kustomkarl]

Insert the carriage bolts first, Hit them with a hammer to add a little countersink if needed. If you drill to counter sink them it takes out some of the wood's integrity, then carpet over them. When you attach them to the bunks they will counter themselves a little more as they are tightened, and the carpet will cushion it that much more. That's why I use a bit more cushy carpet than just the thin indoor/outdoor type of carpet.

Karl

 

[scooper77515]

Insert the carriage bolts first, Hit them with a hammer to add a little countersink if needed. If you drill to counter sink them it takes out some of the wood's integrity, then carpet over them. When you attach them to the bunks they will counter themselves a little more as they are tightened, and the carpet will cushion it that much more. That's why I use a bit more cushy carpet than just the thin indoor/outdoor type of carpet.

THAT is what I was needing to know. You identified that it IS in fact carriage bolts and not hex-heads, and that I should NOT drill in to countersink.

Thanks for the help :cheers:

 

[scooper77515]

Now I know that I will need vice grips, because those carriage bolts will likely start to spin in the wood and not let the nuts come off. I don't need a hole saw, washers, and many of the other tools I was planning on bringing.

Yesterday, when I finally found a place that had decent carpet that matched what I was looking for, I DID get the thicker of the two that was offered. Glad now that I did.

Weather is supposed to be good tomorrow so off to the lake, take a little time to swap out the bunks and pull out the surfboard for a couple rides! :hurray:

 

[scooper77515]

Well, that was an easy job, relatively. Even better, got to take the boat for a spin by myself for a bit afterwards.

I admit that the angle-iron fix was not perfect, or anywhere near perfect, but it will hold that side together for another year or three. The angle of the pic does not show that there is no metal there where you don't see a weld. It is welded solid along the bottom where the curve doesn't make too much space, and along the ends on this side, so it should keep it all pulled together.

When I got home I tacked welded those two brackets that hang below the trailer on the back, then cut off the hanging part. so they should stay where they are and yet be easy to remove if I ever need to swap them, after 2-3 minutes of using a grinder or cutoff tool.

I loaded up my generator, welder, and power tools and dropped the boat in the water and docked it while I did all this. Cops were concerned and came by every 30 minutes or so to make sure I wasn't "wreaking havoc" but left me alone.

 

[kustomkarl]

That should last a while. You need to rinse it real good after every dip in the salt water. I would also prime the new steel and paint it with at least gray primer to prevent rust and corrosion.

Karl

 

[scooper77515]

As soon as the new metal gets a light rust coat, I will use POR-15.

I don't do salt water anymore. Sometimes the river is a bit brackish, but never salt like in the intracoastal.

 

[robin savell lloyd]

I do believe that you have a problem like mine but yours looks alot worse. I may be wrong but to me I believe that your metal has been in alot of salt water and I believe that it will continue to rust bad from the inside outward as you have the same square tubular steel as mine. Even if you protect the outside the inside will be weaker than one may think. I may get a new or good used aluminum trailer in the future if I keep my boat for a while.

 

[scooper77515]

Robin, I agree with you 100%. The trailer looks like the inside of the engine looked when it cratered right after I bought it.

That back brace is rusting fromt the inside out. I will keep reinforcing it until it seems unsafe, and then buy a new trailer.

At least I "might" be able to keep it alive a season at a time by welding new steel on to it.

 

[timmyboy76]

know, thats how you roll to da water...rite on, Scoop.
Only suggestion, (somewhat late though), would have been, to dis the bracket you got welded to frame, use the "bunk" bracket that swivels, and in bracket place, get 1/4inX5inX3in flat stock and welded that to frame, then drill hole at top, mount bunk bracket.....

 

[scooper77515]

Before the end of the year, I will likely have to add much more metal to that area, and likely just reweld an entire new chunk back there and cut that one off. I could probably buy that back piece from the local trailer manufacturer two towns over, and just weld it on in an hour.

One of the BIG trailer companies is located in Santa Fe, TX (can't remember their name, but you would recognize it) and my company has a school over there. I go by there at least one day a week. I will stop in and see what they can do for me.