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Broken motor mount???

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scooper77515

scooper77515

freebie fixer
Premium Member
I took the 96 XP out today, and it ran pretty good, but didn't want to start after turned off. Kept flooding. So when I got it home, i pulled the air cleaner off, and cleaned it out really good, lubed up the carb and linkages, and adjusted the low speed screws. They were at 1-1/2 turns, book calls for 3/4 - 1-1/4, so I was WAY rich anyway.

Well, while tightening the aircleaner screws back down, the entire engine lifted in my hand!!!

I was very surprised, by the way, at how light this engine is...must be all aluminum and/or magnesium.

It "looks like" it is just a round rubber bumper sitting on a flat metal part screwed onto the floor of the hull. The metal framing is a little rusty, but not broken. There appears to be a screw through the middle holding the rubber bumper up to the top half of the motor mount.

Question (FINALLY GOT TO THE QUESTION!!!!) is how long could I have been driving with the motor mount broken without knowing it, and what kind of damage should I look for now that I found that the mount is out?

Could it have been broken for a long time, or did I just break it today while messing with the carbs?

I was jumping small waves today, and didn't hear or feel anything amiss...

Broken mount is the one on the right side, behind the carbs. So apparently the torque of the engine pushes it against that mount?
 
Oh, and by the way...

...I am on Babbits online, and I cannot figure out which piece I need to buy. Anyone have a part number or at least the name of the part?

Here is a pic of what is left. I assume the rubber is supposed to be permanently attached to the metal base?

mount.jpg
 
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If you are at babbits look some wear that you would not think a motor mount would be. under exhaust is where it will be found at babbits. Good luck Robin :cheers:
 
OK, now I am thinking too much

How are the rubber bushings attached to the metal base at the factory?

It seems like they are just glued on. I don't know if I like the idea of my motor being GLUED to the hull.

Can I use a short 1" or 1-1/2" lag bolt into the rubber to mount the bushing to the metal base?

The rubber is not rotted or brittle. It seems that a short lag bolt and some locktite would keep this thing attached, but still give it the pliability and "give" it needs to function as it should. Lag bolt the rubber to the base, bolt the base back down to the hull, and VOILA!

Just thinking out loud here...
 
I found a couple for $30 plus 12 shipping on ebay. They are listed as being for 787 and 96GSX engine. They look like the part, but I just need to cross-reference the part numbers.
 
Engine weight ....

Long block 787 is 75 pounds. Long block 717 is 55 pounds. I guess that's 20 additional pounds just for the balance shaft and RAVE casings.....:rofl:
 
You know...I was torquing down the bolts that hold the air-cleaner/flame arrester down, and the motor lifted up about 6 inches.

It didn't seem all too heavy. Then I tried it barehanded....it seemed quite light.

I would not have guessed more than 20-30 pounds...
 
Chain fall....

Yeah, the first motor I pulled was on a 96 model challenger (motor in the 787 picure thread) and I put it under a tree and got out the chain fall and all, then was quite surprised that when I got the motor in the air, put it on the ground, then was really surprised to see how light they were. In my "a look inside the 787", I tote that block and pistons from bench to bench.

My next door neighbor has a 4 stroke, 125 horse outboard. I carried the 110 hp Rotax to the backyard and asked him if he could do this to his engine. He laughed because he could believe it was a 110 hp engine.... RAVE's make a big difference in creating a lot of that horsepower.
 
Repairing the mount

I decided to just repair the mount, since the rubber was still soft and pliable. Besides, since they are just glued together, I figured my fix would hold up better than the manufacturer's engineering.

I cleaned the two mating surfaces up with 36 grit sandpaper and acetone, and used JB Weld (the "glue") to put the two pieces back together.

Then I drilled two holes in the bottom of the mount off center, so the screws would not hit the threaded insert in the rubber mount. Drive 2 short 1" lag-bolts or similar into it to hold it more steady and to keep it from pulling out of the glue. The heads of the bolts fit up inside the cavity created under the metal part of the mount by the angled base.

Done. 15 minutes, cost about $3 to fix.
 
Please let us know how well it works in a month or 2. So that if others want to use that opption. I have thought about doing that myself over the years but never have. I have asked about a glue that would work but the only answer I got was that no one has reported any good luck trying to reglue. :cheers:
 
That's a good "fix"Scott...just be sure you used stainless or maybe galvanized to keep the salt water from corroding it. Be aware of any vibration as it might be just a little bit too ridged now. They help in keeping vibrations to a minimum too. Double check you spacing on the shaft at the rear too so it is still aligned correctly.

Karl
 
The screws only go into the rubber for the bottom 1/2" or maybe 3/4", and not all the way through the bumper. hopefully it will still retain it's flex. And they are galvanized, so they should hold up for a while.
 
Thats sounds like a good thing... You'll be fine...Oh yea the Challenger ran great yesterday...

Karl
 
Ended up using different screws. One is zinc coated lag screw, other is coated concrete anchor. Both have really deep threads, and both are about an inch or so long.

JB Weld job could have been nicer, but I am looking for function here, not beauty.
 

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Do you guys think I should go ahead and take off the other mounts and do this to them BEFORE they break? Just the screw part?

Seems like they will be breaking soon, if this one wore out now...
 
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