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Bringing a 97 xp back from the grave

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Well guys I'm back again with a different jet ski this time. I bought a 97 XP which from what I've read and experienced myself over the past couple of weeks can be a real headache lol. I really do like working on these jet skis an I've done my research on this one and all of its problems. I just need someone to confirm that what I think is true, so here we go.

When we got the ski home, there was no power. Nothing happens when you press the start/stop button, nothing happens when you put the DESS key on the post. No lights, no trim, nothing.

First thing we did was make sure the motor wasn't locked. Jumped the solenoid, and the engine turns over, so we're not locked up which is a good thing haha.the engine won't turn over if there are spark plugs in it, but it will crank over strong with them out. We can even put our fingers over where the spark plugs go and cause the engine to have trouble turning over, so I think we have a weak starter. Gonna get that replaced ASAP.

All in all the engine seems to be in fair condition. So back to the electrical portion of things. I've done plenty of reading about this model and here are a list of things I have diagnosed. If anyone can think of something else for me to check let me know.

-broke out the multimeter, checked all fuses
-15A in starter relay, 15A and 5A were blown.
-guy said the VTS motor was bad, so pulled that and started check to see what was making the fuses blow.
-after I pulled the VTS motor, 15A in starter relay stopped blowing.
-pulled the yellow cables out of the rectifier, 15A in mpem stopped blowing.
-pulled the plug from the front of the motor (stator pickup I believe?) 5A, 7.5A stopped blowing.

now that I've got all the fuses running I start testing for continuity in the steering wheel assembly. Here is what I've confirmed thus far:

-Buzzer/beeper has good continuity down to the mpem.
-DESS post has good continuity down to the mpem.

Here is where things started getting interesting for me. We were checking the power button for continuity. And found what is unfortunately leading me to believe that the MPEM is no longer any good. When we did a continuity test from the start button to where it plugs into the rear elec. box (by the solenoid), the Yellow/Red cable is reading continuity with a moderate level of resistance on the Black cable? I can get a reading for a second when I touch the probe to the yellow/red wire. But then it dies. Here are some tests I did to just double check the wiring harnesses and make sure they were good.

-checked YELLOW/RED wire in both wiring harnesses and it has good continuity in the harness going from the steering column to the MPEM and in the harness going from the MPEM to the Rear electrical box. 0 ohms or completed circuit.

-same is true of the black cable in both wiring harnesses.

so here is where the problem is as far as I can think to narrow it down. I plugged the wiring harness from the steering column into the MPEM and left the harness that goes to the rear elec. box unplugged so I can test for continuity on the wires coming through the MPEM. I disconnected the battery so I didn't accidentally kill anything. This is the weird part. When I test the yellow/red wire, it comes out through the computer on both the yellow/red terminal and the black terminal. Same is true of the black cable and there is resistance on the yellow/red terminal when testing the black cable.

So at this point, something is grounding inside the magneto, I have a bad rectifier, a bad VTS motor, and a bad MPEM possibly. Boy when I said I wanted a project I sure got one! Haha. But at least when it is all fixed it will be done right and I'll be REALLLYY familiar with the machine lol.

My question is this, have I missed anything, and is there any way possible to get away with not buying another MPEM if it is bad? And also, where do I go from here as far as getting power back to the steering column? Thanks guys in advance for all of your help!
 
I think your vts probably fried your mpem or water splashing on it,as for getting away without it, sadly no and that year is going to run you about $300-$350 used.
Your stator probably has water in the housing and caused that to fry too, $75-$100 for that.

Hope fully your start stop button is good because I just had to try taking that off and that is hard wired right into the main harness)dumb asz design) but you can just cut the wires and add weatherpack terminals to it.
 
If you are thinking the key or the dess post is the problem because you get no beeps and the gauges arent turning on then you can hit the start button 5 times and that will cycle the system and all the gauges will turn on. The key doesnt even need to be on to do this. If you get the gauges to turn on this way you are in luck.
 
No I know that's not the problem, I've already tried to enter diagnostics mode, i really do believe that the MPEM is the problem or at least part of it. But I just did an
 
No I know that's not the problem, I've already tried to enter diagnostics mode, i really do believe that the MPEM is the problem or at least part of it. But I just did another voltage test from a ground on the engine to the start button and DESS post and it is reading 12.5 volts at both of them. Will a bad MPEM keep the start button from working? Because it not doing anything at the steering column.
 
If it keeps blowing fuses theres no way to test it....well except for me. I have harnesses made up and a programmer. I could tell you ASAP if you sent it.

I would also recommend pulling the stator cover off and check it out. If its got water in it you really need to take the mag housing apart and inspect the crack where it meets the crank seal. If its rusty it will last a tank or two before it rips the seal apart and blows up. Sounds like from your tests its bad anyways.

I have all the parts available you mentioned and would give you a nice discount if you bought it all at once. Also If you send yours and its bad, I can program your old key to the new mpem so you have a backup key.
 
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Okay update on this, my dad and I I finally found the time to get inside the magneto cover. No rust damage no water inside the engine. What a relief. Minimal metal shavings, though there were a few attached to the stator pickup magnet? I think the manual refers to it as the trigger coil.

Anyways got all of that cleaned off of the magnet, and gave everything a good wipe down. We put it all back together and still blew the 5A fuse on the MPEM.

Interesting note though, the 7.5A fuse blew when we reconnected the main ground to the MPEM. We went and unplugged the VTS housing, and the new fuse didn't blow. I have pics of the stator to put up later.

At this point I'm thinking the Housing has a short in it, and when the nimrods plugged a bigger amp fuse in place of the 7.5A, it fried the MPEM. Any other suggestions or tests anyone can think of?
 
an easy way would be to send it to minnetonka,have him test it,u either get yours back,proven good,or buy one from him,(send him your dess key,so he can program it to the new mpem)
 
well as long as you got all the junk out of there thats the best you can do there. You can run a ground from the battery to the ground post inside the grey box and keep the mag connector disconnected. that will for sure rule out the stator being some sort of an issue.

Again...if you want to send the MPEM to me I have a harness setup specifically to test them.
 
Alright, I'll check on that. Where is this ground post at?

I'm outta funding at the moment, but when I get some I'll be sure to get back to you. I'm having a ball working on this ski, what is your opinion on the 97 XP?

Minnetonka; I have another question for you. Do you have the white storage tray that goes over the engine on this XP? I've looked everywhere and I can't find one. This ski didn't come with one on it. :(
 
Im sorry I misspoke...forgot it was a 97 XP. Only way to do it on that one is to hook it to the ground on the mag harness with either a pin connector or pull the ground out of the mag connector and wrap it around the pin.

Just send that thing over it will take me all of 2mins to tell you if its good or bad. Throw me $10 and pay for shipping. If its bad I can sell you a replacement and program your old key to the new mpem so you have two keys.

I have at least one of those trays...but most of them the strap for the fire extinguisher is rotted.
 
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Aright, Well I still need to get the cash for the replacement so I'll get back to you when I get that taken care of. haha I'm an unemployed college student so money comes sparingly lol.

I've read horror stories about people buying new MPEM's and frying them because they haven't checked all of their bases. I can't think of anything else to check. Does anyone have suggestions on anything else I can check while I'm waiting to get this one checked out?

That tray having a rotted strap is the least of my worries. We have good ole' fashioned southern ingenuity on our side haha; We'll make it work somehow.
 
Well send it up so I can test it...so you know where you are at.

There really isnt much that can cause this...you already looked over the other major place. Keep the VTS unhooked. If the black ebox is clean inside and you checked all the connectors, about the only other thing you can do is check each wire for resistance.
 
Do you think the 97 xp will be a pretty reliable ski for a newbie like myself? Or should I have gotten a 96 xp instead? I know there's a bit of a love hate relationship between these two skis. I've read a lot if bad reviews about the 97. But people who like it seem to be very loyal. I was just curious if I made the right choice for a new toy or not lol.
 
Do you think the 97 xp will be a pretty reliable ski for a newbie like myself? Or should I have gotten a 96 xp instead? I know there's a bit of a love hate relationship between these two skis. I've read a lot if bad reviews about the 97. But people who like it seem to be very loyal. I was just curious if I made the right choice for a new toy or not lol.

the 97 itself isn't more or less problematic than any other model (with exception to DI models) so that answer is no, you didn't make a mistake of any sort, the biggest difference between the 97 and the 96 is the larger base of used parts available for the 96 but honestly, don't sweat it !
 
Its all opinion and what they are using it for. As Spim said its no better or worse reliability wise, just a couple things like engine alignment and taking care of the mpem/connectors that are important specifically to the 97.
 
Its all opinion and what they are using it for. As Spim said its no better or worse reliability wise, just a couple things like engine alignment and taking care of the mpem/connectors that are important specifically to the 97.

exactly, there are definately differences between the 96 and 97 as far as handeling, holeshot, max speed, manuaverability, etc, its been fairly well documented here and there on the forum.

I've written a couple of full page essays on the subject and i'm not in the mood to repeat: but in summary of 50 words or less: the 96 IMO has more fun factor (faster, jumps better, spinouts, etc) , the 97 is a better river cruiser, larger gas tank, good carver, and will handle chop MUCH better, but won't be as fast out of the hole, and won't jump worth a dam (at least by comparison)
 
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