FloridaBound0911
New Member
Well guys I'm back again with a different jet ski this time. I bought a 97 XP which from what I've read and experienced myself over the past couple of weeks can be a real headache lol. I really do like working on these jet skis an I've done my research on this one and all of its problems. I just need someone to confirm that what I think is true, so here we go.
When we got the ski home, there was no power. Nothing happens when you press the start/stop button, nothing happens when you put the DESS key on the post. No lights, no trim, nothing.
First thing we did was make sure the motor wasn't locked. Jumped the solenoid, and the engine turns over, so we're not locked up which is a good thing haha.the engine won't turn over if there are spark plugs in it, but it will crank over strong with them out. We can even put our fingers over where the spark plugs go and cause the engine to have trouble turning over, so I think we have a weak starter. Gonna get that replaced ASAP.
All in all the engine seems to be in fair condition. So back to the electrical portion of things. I've done plenty of reading about this model and here are a list of things I have diagnosed. If anyone can think of something else for me to check let me know.
-broke out the multimeter, checked all fuses
-15A in starter relay, 15A and 5A were blown.
-guy said the VTS motor was bad, so pulled that and started check to see what was making the fuses blow.
-after I pulled the VTS motor, 15A in starter relay stopped blowing.
-pulled the yellow cables out of the rectifier, 15A in mpem stopped blowing.
-pulled the plug from the front of the motor (stator pickup I believe?) 5A, 7.5A stopped blowing.
now that I've got all the fuses running I start testing for continuity in the steering wheel assembly. Here is what I've confirmed thus far:
-Buzzer/beeper has good continuity down to the mpem.
-DESS post has good continuity down to the mpem.
Here is where things started getting interesting for me. We were checking the power button for continuity. And found what is unfortunately leading me to believe that the MPEM is no longer any good. When we did a continuity test from the start button to where it plugs into the rear elec. box (by the solenoid), the Yellow/Red cable is reading continuity with a moderate level of resistance on the Black cable? I can get a reading for a second when I touch the probe to the yellow/red wire. But then it dies. Here are some tests I did to just double check the wiring harnesses and make sure they were good.
-checked YELLOW/RED wire in both wiring harnesses and it has good continuity in the harness going from the steering column to the MPEM and in the harness going from the MPEM to the Rear electrical box. 0 ohms or completed circuit.
-same is true of the black cable in both wiring harnesses.
so here is where the problem is as far as I can think to narrow it down. I plugged the wiring harness from the steering column into the MPEM and left the harness that goes to the rear elec. box unplugged so I can test for continuity on the wires coming through the MPEM. I disconnected the battery so I didn't accidentally kill anything. This is the weird part. When I test the yellow/red wire, it comes out through the computer on both the yellow/red terminal and the black terminal. Same is true of the black cable and there is resistance on the yellow/red terminal when testing the black cable.
So at this point, something is grounding inside the magneto, I have a bad rectifier, a bad VTS motor, and a bad MPEM possibly. Boy when I said I wanted a project I sure got one! Haha. But at least when it is all fixed it will be done right and I'll be REALLLYY familiar with the machine lol.
My question is this, have I missed anything, and is there any way possible to get away with not buying another MPEM if it is bad? And also, where do I go from here as far as getting power back to the steering column? Thanks guys in advance for all of your help!
When we got the ski home, there was no power. Nothing happens when you press the start/stop button, nothing happens when you put the DESS key on the post. No lights, no trim, nothing.
First thing we did was make sure the motor wasn't locked. Jumped the solenoid, and the engine turns over, so we're not locked up which is a good thing haha.the engine won't turn over if there are spark plugs in it, but it will crank over strong with them out. We can even put our fingers over where the spark plugs go and cause the engine to have trouble turning over, so I think we have a weak starter. Gonna get that replaced ASAP.
All in all the engine seems to be in fair condition. So back to the electrical portion of things. I've done plenty of reading about this model and here are a list of things I have diagnosed. If anyone can think of something else for me to check let me know.
-broke out the multimeter, checked all fuses
-15A in starter relay, 15A and 5A were blown.
-guy said the VTS motor was bad, so pulled that and started check to see what was making the fuses blow.
-after I pulled the VTS motor, 15A in starter relay stopped blowing.
-pulled the yellow cables out of the rectifier, 15A in mpem stopped blowing.
-pulled the plug from the front of the motor (stator pickup I believe?) 5A, 7.5A stopped blowing.
now that I've got all the fuses running I start testing for continuity in the steering wheel assembly. Here is what I've confirmed thus far:
-Buzzer/beeper has good continuity down to the mpem.
-DESS post has good continuity down to the mpem.
Here is where things started getting interesting for me. We were checking the power button for continuity. And found what is unfortunately leading me to believe that the MPEM is no longer any good. When we did a continuity test from the start button to where it plugs into the rear elec. box (by the solenoid), the Yellow/Red cable is reading continuity with a moderate level of resistance on the Black cable? I can get a reading for a second when I touch the probe to the yellow/red wire. But then it dies. Here are some tests I did to just double check the wiring harnesses and make sure they were good.
-checked YELLOW/RED wire in both wiring harnesses and it has good continuity in the harness going from the steering column to the MPEM and in the harness going from the MPEM to the Rear electrical box. 0 ohms or completed circuit.
-same is true of the black cable in both wiring harnesses.
so here is where the problem is as far as I can think to narrow it down. I plugged the wiring harness from the steering column into the MPEM and left the harness that goes to the rear elec. box unplugged so I can test for continuity on the wires coming through the MPEM. I disconnected the battery so I didn't accidentally kill anything. This is the weird part. When I test the yellow/red wire, it comes out through the computer on both the yellow/red terminal and the black terminal. Same is true of the black cable and there is resistance on the yellow/red terminal when testing the black cable.
So at this point, something is grounding inside the magneto, I have a bad rectifier, a bad VTS motor, and a bad MPEM possibly. Boy when I said I wanted a project I sure got one! Haha. But at least when it is all fixed it will be done right and I'll be REALLLYY familiar with the machine lol.
My question is this, have I missed anything, and is there any way possible to get away with not buying another MPEM if it is bad? And also, where do I go from here as far as getting power back to the steering column? Thanks guys in advance for all of your help!