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Bringing a 97 sportster back to life

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jacklegjim

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I was given a 1997 sportster not running and no trailer. The hull is in good shape just needs to be buffed. The seats are pretty rough.
I have had it since last fall and decided I need to see if I can get it running or get rid of it.Someone had cut the wires going to the stator and trigger in an attempet to get it running and they had replaced the coil because the old one was in the bottom of the boat. The cover to the grey box was off also. I spent a few hours last Friday checking the stator and trigger and they are bad. So I pulled the motor to replace it. In the process of pulling the motor I was going to leave the carbs in the boat but, the bolts on the rear carb were corroded so bad they would not come out. I drilled the head off applied heat and could not get the carb to come off the bolts. In the process of trying to remove the carb I broke the intake manifold. After removing the flywheel cover I could see the problem there. One of the bolts that hold the stator plate on was broke off and the other two were loose and it had ground into the flywheel.At this point I am waiting on parts. I have a stator ,flywheel,intake manifold and carbs on the way here $200.00 for all of it. I may need more electronic parts but I will get these put in and see what is next.I have the motor on my work bench is there anything else I need to check while it is out? I did a compression test and it was a little over 200 psi but, there was oil in the cyl. so I am not sure where I am at with that . This is the first boat I have had that did not have a prop on it so I am new to this. While I am waiting on parts I have been checking on other things and found the steering cable is locked up.There is also a small cable that runs from the steering box to the throttle and something does not look right about it I can't find it in the manual.
As I try to make progress I am sure I will have questions also any advice is appreciated.
Sorry for the long post I just wanted to give some the history on it.
Thanks Jim
 
The mechanical end of your project is pretty straightforward, and it sounds like you know your way around a wrench. The achilles heel of these boats is the module BRP used to run everything, they refer to it as the MPEM.

It does everything from housing the security codes for the DESS lanyards to storing the timing numbers and CDI to run the motor. I know you couldn't test your's on account of the ignition generator coil being bad but I hope that module still works for you.

There's some really good information to be found here from restoration threads and how to's on everything from upholstery to electrical, you definitely landed in the right place for your project.
 
I was reading an old post on having the motor out and it was noted to check the oil pump while the motor was out.
What should I look for on an oil pump inspection? I have new hoses and crimp clamps coming.
Thanks
 
I was reading an old post on having the motor out and it was noted to check the oil pump while the motor was out.
What should I look for on an oil pump inspection? I have new hoses and crimp clamps coming.
Thanks

Man your on it! :cheers: The pump isn't a big deal but the hoses sure are, especially the two smaller injection lines. 3/32" tygon fuel line replaces those from the pump over to the injector's easily. You see some failures from broken/cracked injection lines that have never been changed but the pumps themselves are known to be very dependable.

You have a plastic drive gear on your pump that would merit looking over but so long as the teeth are in good shape you shouldn't have anything to worry about. Getting the pump bled and adjusted properly is what you want to concentrate on after the throttle cable is dialed in.

There are alignment marks on the pump to use when your ready to set it up.
720 oil pump aligment.jpg
 
I was going to update last night but the internet was down. This is what I have done since last post. The gas tank was half full with bad gas. The safest way I could think of to get it out was to remove the tank and pour it in cans (the motor was already out). This was a struggle to say the least But, the tank is good and clean and I was able to clean under the tank it was very dirty under there. I got the replacement parts put on,cleaned and painted the motor. Because I had someone to help me set the motor in the boat
I did no use a hoist this and decision made it take a couple hours longer because puting oil lines and carb linkage is alot easier when the motor is not in the bottom of the boat leasson learned. I went ahead and replaced the rectifier to be on the safe side. Someone cut the plug off the boat wiring harness that goes to the magneto. The replacement stator I got had the plug on it so I have that temporarily connected until I decide what to do about the connection. Everything is bolted in and connected.I put new oil and gas in also a new battery. I pushed the start button a few times as soon as it got gas it fired right up.With it at idle I held the oil pump lever at max open to fill the lines. This took a lot longer than I expected. I spent some extre time here to make sure everything was right. The process takes a while when only idling 10-20 seconds at a time. A couple differend times I put a little oil in the carb to be sure it had enough oil. I started about noon Friday finished at 2:00 am Sat.morning.
Right now the motor seams to run good I have run it for a minuit at a time on the hose. At idle there is a little rattling at the back of the boat I assume it is the impeller.
I don't know if that is normal or means it needs work.I still have a way to go before I can go to the lake with it but, I am glad the motor and electronics seam to be fine.
I will give another updatd after more progress is made
 
It seams like every thing I work on is a struggle on this boat or maybe it is due to me getting older anyway, I pulled the steering cable off and got it working good now.
I can't get the throttle cable that goes to the steering box adjusted right. Turning one way it pulls too much and the other way it does not pull at all. Is this cable necessary to have if not I am going to take it off. I think mechanically I am ready to go to the lake and give it a try and see how the pump acts. I am waiting for a cheap trailer to come along. I am not holding out for a seadoo trailer I am looking for anything it will fit on. I have alot of cosmetic work to do. The whole boat needs to be buffed and my seats are in bad shape.I am starting on this next while I am looking for a trailer. So far I am in it for $300.00 including 2 year registration.
Next update I will include some pictures if I can get them on here.
 
Your project sounds like mine. Getting the engine fired up the first time is a great feeling of accomplishment. I have gone through about 2 gallons of purple power cleaning the inside of the hull and engine compartment. I had oil residue from bow to stern. Roughly a gallon of organic slimy stuff and plastic parts. I didn't remove the fuel tank, but I did pull one engine to replace the stator. Once out, I could get more cleaning done.
I am not familiar with the throttle going to the steering. I will have to check out the manual. I know the choke cable goes under the steering in the console.
I'm 44 and bending over into the engine compartment is definitely a real pain. I can feel the ribs I have broken in the past. I have a build thread on my 94 here and once you get it in the water, that work will pay off. Stay with it and keep us updated! Sounds like you are doing a great job!
Be sure to update your information. That way we know what you're working on.
 
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