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Breaking manifold Bolts
- Thread starter MRseadoo
- Start date
- Status
Broken bolts!
Have I ever broken manifold bolts?........yes! You don't say alot about what your doing to break them, but make sure when you remove them, you clean the threads really well, then run them in before assembly to make sure they run in all the way by hand, that there is no restrictions before you start with a torque wrench. If the threads aren't cleaned, you will get a false reading on your torque specification and the chance of over tightening.
Have I ever broken manifold bolts?........yes! You don't say alot about what your doing to break them, but make sure when you remove them, you clean the threads really well, then run them in before assembly to make sure they run in all the way by hand, that there is no restrictions before you start with a torque wrench. If the threads aren't cleaned, you will get a false reading on your torque specification and the chance of over tightening.
chariotdriver
New Member
Safety wire.....
I've had problems with bolts/nuts in the past due to material differences or lots of vibration........nothing beats stainless steel safety wire. It's a bit of a pain but it works 100%. That's why it's used in the aviation industry on just about everything that's important. It's not too hard to drill a 1/16 hole in a nut or bolt corner and the wire is relatively cheap. I bought a 100 foot roll over 10 years ago for 25 bucks and still have more than half of it left. You don't need the fancy twister pliars; I use the smallest needle nose vise-grips and they work great. I have NEVER had a safety wired nut or bolt come loose and if it did there would be the tatle tale sign of a broken wire. I've used the stuff on the Sea-doo's, Cummins diesel engines, home built helicopters, and GSXR motor cycles. It just plain works. Hope this helps. cd
I've had problems with bolts/nuts in the past due to material differences or lots of vibration........nothing beats stainless steel safety wire. It's a bit of a pain but it works 100%. That's why it's used in the aviation industry on just about everything that's important. It's not too hard to drill a 1/16 hole in a nut or bolt corner and the wire is relatively cheap. I bought a 100 foot roll over 10 years ago for 25 bucks and still have more than half of it left. You don't need the fancy twister pliars; I use the smallest needle nose vise-grips and they work great. I have NEVER had a safety wired nut or bolt come loose and if it did there would be the tatle tale sign of a broken wire. I've used the stuff on the Sea-doo's, Cummins diesel engines, home built helicopters, and GSXR motor cycles. It just plain works. Hope this helps. cd
Ah, good info. If you have any details on drilling the holes (bit sizes, fixtures, dealing with SST) and the type of safety wire (gauge, sources) this would be very useful.
mojo0107
Member
Lots of people have this problem...
Its and engineering problem...I took a handfull of bolts into the chef mechanic at my local dealer and he guessed it right down to the HP of the engine. I've since have researched it myself and well here ya go for what its worth...Once it starts doing this new bolts and a stud will not fix it.
I have a 96 spx runs great but I've found out that its a problem when the idle is at 1800-2100 rpm's. The harmonix snaps them. Some people are getting 6-10 hrs out of them some a few weeks. Threre does not seem to be a cure for this other then a new unit, I'm doing that now tired of working more then playing with the kids.
You can do a few things to help.
1. Replace all three bolts on the top and the one stud, as well as the one down on the side. go back w/seadoo parts if you use harden steel you may end up breaking the entire manifold. $30 for bolts or $360 for a manifold
2. Check your engine ruber mounts there are four. Start in this order with the torq of the engine this is the order they go bad. RR, RF, LR, and if it breaks them everytime you start it LF, I've never seen a left frount or heard of the LF going bad.
3. Check or replace your impeller...If you have sucked a rock,ski rope, etc... into the impeller it may be pitted or out of balance, causing the vibration that is breaking the bolts...
Its some extra work but you have three options keep fixing, try to prevent, or get a newer unit. You can get a new 155 on ebay for 8999 in the Jax FL area. good LUCK and if you find a simpler fix let me know.
Its and engineering problem...I took a handfull of bolts into the chef mechanic at my local dealer and he guessed it right down to the HP of the engine. I've since have researched it myself and well here ya go for what its worth...Once it starts doing this new bolts and a stud will not fix it.
I have a 96 spx runs great but I've found out that its a problem when the idle is at 1800-2100 rpm's. The harmonix snaps them. Some people are getting 6-10 hrs out of them some a few weeks. Threre does not seem to be a cure for this other then a new unit, I'm doing that now tired of working more then playing with the kids.
You can do a few things to help.
1. Replace all three bolts on the top and the one stud, as well as the one down on the side. go back w/seadoo parts if you use harden steel you may end up breaking the entire manifold. $30 for bolts or $360 for a manifold
2. Check your engine ruber mounts there are four. Start in this order with the torq of the engine this is the order they go bad. RR, RF, LR, and if it breaks them everytime you start it LF, I've never seen a left frount or heard of the LF going bad.
3. Check or replace your impeller...If you have sucked a rock,ski rope, etc... into the impeller it may be pitted or out of balance, causing the vibration that is breaking the bolts...
Its some extra work but you have three options keep fixing, try to prevent, or get a newer unit. You can get a new 155 on ebay for 8999 in the Jax FL area. good LUCK and if you find a simpler fix let me know.
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