Am trying to rebuild my top end and some of the bolts are frozen on the exhaust manifold. I have applied penetrating oil on them fof the last two days and they still will not move. I really do not want to cut the bolts off as I would like to keep the cylinders. Would heat be an answer????:ack:
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Bolts frozen on 657X exhaust manifold....
- Thread starter bdagold
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No heat
Heat probably wouldn't be a good idea with all the gas fumes in the hull. If you have the engine out of the hull and carbs off and you are SURE there is no way this thing could ignite with gas anywhere you could use a propane torch. I would just be real careful no to get it too hot and weaken the manifold.
I know you can get a tool that works off off impact. You can put the socket or whatever on one end and the other end you hit with a hammer and it will turn as you hit it. Try some PB Blaster too, stuff works great.
Heat probably wouldn't be a good idea with all the gas fumes in the hull. If you have the engine out of the hull and carbs off and you are SURE there is no way this thing could ignite with gas anywhere you could use a propane torch. I would just be real careful no to get it too hot and weaken the manifold.
I know you can get a tool that works off off impact. You can put the socket or whatever on one end and the other end you hit with a hammer and it will turn as you hit it. Try some PB Blaster too, stuff works great.
Heat...?
If you can use heat, that may be somewhat effective.
The bolts are seized because of the aluminum oxide corrosion. It's not usually in the threads but in the space between the bolt head and the threaded area.
This is caused by electroylsis because of two different types of metal in contact with each other, aluminum and stainless.
I've since freed all my bolts (1997-787cc) and use anti seize religiously. I don't recommend this practice though to anyone who's not going to be constantly hands on with the motor because without loctite, vibration will cause them to back out. I check and re-torque monthly at minimum....:cheers:
If you can use heat, that may be somewhat effective.
The bolts are seized because of the aluminum oxide corrosion. It's not usually in the threads but in the space between the bolt head and the threaded area.
This is caused by electroylsis because of two different types of metal in contact with each other, aluminum and stainless.
I've since freed all my bolts (1997-787cc) and use anti seize religiously. I don't recommend this practice though to anyone who's not going to be constantly hands on with the motor because without loctite, vibration will cause them to back out. I check and re-torque monthly at minimum....:cheers:
mcurcio1989
New Member
this might help you:
PB Blaster=ok. A 50/50 mix of acetone & ATF=Best Ever! Here's the cold, hard facts from the April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop. They did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better.
Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10
PB Blaster=ok. A 50/50 mix of acetone & ATF=Best Ever! Here's the cold, hard facts from the April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop. They did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better.
Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10
This is what i found out when I swapped a new motor in this summer. I literally destroyed the manifold trying to get the bolt out. 2 of them broke off, next two stripped at the head, and I took the entire cylinder/manifold assembly to my dad's machine shop to mill out the remaining boltheads, and found that it wasn't stuck at the threads, but at the unthreaded part between the threads and head.
I destroyed the manifold (and cylinders) trying to remove them AFTER milling the heads off the bolts, using penetrating oil, acetylene torch, 8 lb sledgehammers with steel wedges, and nothing worked.
I threw away the cylinders (from my blown engine) and ended up tossing the manifold and buying a used one on ebay for $15.
Gotta try the ATF/Acetone mixture. Is it stable enough to mix and store in a container for later use? It won't blow up my storage can, will it?
mcurcio1989
New Member
I don't know about the stability of it. I just found that from another forum and I thought it was a pretty impressive study. I know that you can buy both of them at home depot so it can't be too bad.
Acetone?...
Yeah, you should be able to store it in a well suited container. I wouldn't put it in a plastic bottle or some other temp container. Acetone is flammable, so keep it away from a source of heat.
As for it's use. I'll have to give it a try myself. When I got a rusted nut or bolt, I can see it. But this white corrision stuff seizes the shank of these long bolts to what ever they pass through, not necessarily the threa itself.:cheers:
Yeah, you should be able to store it in a well suited container. I wouldn't put it in a plastic bottle or some other temp container. Acetone is flammable, so keep it away from a source of heat.
As for it's use. I'll have to give it a try myself. When I got a rusted nut or bolt, I can see it. But this white corrision stuff seizes the shank of these long bolts to what ever they pass through, not necessarily the threa itself.:cheers:
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