Bolt nightmares!

[Seadoo_sportster]

I've got a 99 sportster that has an issue with bolts! Bought the bost last year, had a new DESS made for it and the mechanic tells me it only had 86 hrs on it, I put about 50 hrs on it since. When putting a load on the boat, i.e. towing skier or tube or just hammering on the throttle a bit much I have broke the stud and a bolt that connects the exhaust manifold to the tuned pipe. This is on the starboard engine. I replaced them a few times, and so far so good, but know I had the stud break on the port engine, tried to remove with a "easy-out" and snapped the easy-out off in the manifold. tried to remove the 8 bolts that hold the manifold on and snapped a bolt in one cylinder, wnet to remove cylinder and snapped a bolt in the head. Needless to say, some colorful words have been flying in my garage and I'm wondering how one broken stud is now going to cost me a small fortune! Why are they breaking so much, by the way the bolts I do get out have a white powder on them. Also might be a stupid question, but the sticker on the boat says the motors are 718.2 cc's is this considered a 717 or 720? Can i get a new gasket set for all my future new parts that is listed for a 720?
Please someone give me some insight, or I might do something drastic to the boat in my garage...p.s. the wife is going to love this after I just spent 1200.00 on getting all the seats done this winter! thanks

 

[robin savell lloyd]

717 is a 720. exhaust bolt breaking. have you cheked the motor mounts?

 

[seadoosnipe]

White powder ash....

I just wrote a thread on this a few days ago, because I've faced the same problem, removing bolts over the last few years. I've almost removed and anti-seized them all...
But, this year, after rebuilding my carbs, I was tightening the mag carb and stripped the bottom bolt. Then, while trying to remove the rotary plate, broke off the upper left, with that white powder ash, then, trying to take off the exhaust manifold, I was on the last bolt, thinking I was scott free and guess what, the last bolt head striped.
Believe it or not, the bolt is not frooze in the threads, the powder ash stuff is frozen in the aluminum material of the manifold. The threads will come out fairly clean.
Right now, I have an easy out in it, but because of family coming down from Idaho, all work has stopped.
The white ash is from electrolysis, I believe. The boats only have one small anode, which is design to attract the electrical corroding component of the salt/brackish water to it for deteriation. But it doesn't seem to be enough.
As for your engines, I bought a complete gasket kit for about $100. I only needed the gaskets for the heads and carbs, but now, I'm glad I got a complete kit.
Your engine is the 717cc engine and your gasket kit is a bit cheaper than mine at $73 dollars for the complete kit.
I'm going through the same crap, so if you get stuck, you can give me a shout!....Oh, BTW, I'm using a Dremel tool with the high speed cutting wheel and PB blaster to help soak and loosen that whit stuff in the casing. My hopes are, once I cut off the bolt head and soak the bolt's inside with the blaster, it'll slide off. But I know from previous experienece, that the bolt is froozen in the exhaust manifolds casing, not the threads.

 

[Seadoo_sportster]

I still have a migraine!

Well, thxs for the info guys! I managed to squeeze some time today to tackle my problems. So far this is what I have managed...exhaust manifold I'm pretty much screwed on, I have gone through 30 bones in new bits with no luck, went big on the bit...lets just say, I'm going to be shopping for a replacement manifold. Your right on the money about the bolts being stuck in the white ash stuff, the one I snapped in the head cover, was completely locked up in that white ash. PB'd the H out of it, pursuaded it with a pair of visegrips and out it came. Now I'm left with the one broke in the jug where the manifold bolts on. She just isnt going to give it up, I've heated it with MAPP gas, PB'd the s out of it and my visegrips are crying for mercy. So tonight I'll soak it in PB, see what it does tom. Not feeling good about it though. Next I'll dremel it out and try the infamous "easy-out" again. I hate to say it, but I think I'll be shopping for a new jug also! By the way DenisKirk lists a total engine gasket set for 69.95...good deal you think? And it also says its for a 720x2, but it will work on my 717's right? One last thing, do I have to remove both jugs to replace that bottom gasket, I think I do. Thanks

 

[dmorozowich]

I am having the same problem. I bought a 94 GTX with engine problems. In taking off the head I broke 11 of the 12 bolts. Even then the white powder was so tight between the left over studs and the head, the head still wouldn't come off. To get the head off I used a #60 drill (oK several #60 drills) to drill out the white powder between the bolts and the head. Now I am trying to figure out how to get the bolts out of the cylinders.

In talking to one of my chemist friends, I think the white powder is either aluminum hydroxide, or aluminum oxide. If it is aluminum hydroxide, I might be able to soak it in a weak acid like vinegar or muratic acid and loosen it up without damaging the base metal much. If it is aluminum oxide, I am stuck.

I am going to do some research on it. I am trying to dissolve some scrapings in vinegar now. If I find a magic solution I'll let you guys know.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Electrolysis....

I'm actually doing research on this subject myself for my monthly, "snipesKorner.
Here's something I found out. The white powder stuff, which is going to be something like aluminium oxide, becuase it's an aluminum engine, is ony seized up in the passages of what it's passing through. When I cut or broke my bolt heads, I was able to drill and easy out all the threaded ends, relatively easy. But the 2 inch or so stud that was going through the exhaust manifold, I practically had to beat them out!.......I finally drilled holes in all, that aleviated the outward pressure on the manifold, then I was able to tap them out.....
It's been a chore, but I've been working with this white powder stuff for about 8 months now.
Most Sea-Doo's only have one zinc anode. I think if they had a few more, the problem wouldn't be so bad..............:cheers:

 

[Seadoo_sportster]

1 busted bolt...countless dollars

Seadoosnipe, well I dont know if you remember my whole story of 1 bolt breaking at the exhaust manifold then one at the jug then one on the head, but the one original stud at the tuned pipe/exhaust manifold is now going to cost me. If you remember i drilled out the stud, broke the easyout off in it, then busted one off at the jug, well the manifold is now crap, got one off of ebay, I pray its the right one. tonight I attempted to drill the one out of the jug, it was going good, then I snapped the bit off in it. Needless to say, my wife would say my anger got the best of me, tried going with a bigger bit, long story short I am now shopping for a replacement jug! one bolt, so many nightmares! Gasket kit is on the way, 70 bones, manifold is 75 now who knows what the jug is going to cost me! I guess 150 isnt that bad, but the fact that one bolt is essentially the reason behind it all fumes me. I'll be looking for a jug, anyone know where I can get a good one for a decent price give me holler. Seadoosnipe I'll check those websites you posted before for good parts...SBT has a listing of used parts if anyone else is shopping!

 

[seadoosnipe]

I'm there with you!....

I should go out there and take a pix of my nightmare. I broke off my easy out that was in my rotary shaft cover. I still got the one on my exhaust manifold. I think, I'm going to go over size to the next mm up. I have a tap and die set, mm and standard....so I may go that route.
I don't know of any other place except www.seadoosource.com as to your alternative of finding parts. There pretty good.........

 

[mojo0107]

96 SPX same problem...?

I have a 96 spx runs great but I've found out that its a problem when the idle is at 1800-2100 rpm's. The harmonix snaps them. Some people are getting 6-10 hrs out of them some a few weeks. Threre does not seem to be a cure for this other then a new unit, I'm doing that now tired of working more then playing with the kids.

You can do a few things to help.
1. Replace all three bolts on the top and the one stud, go back w/seadoo parts if you use harden steel you may end up breaking the entire manifold. $30 for bolts or $360 for a manifold
2. Check your engine ruber mounts there are four. Start in this order with the torq of the engine this is the order they go bad. RR, RF, LR, and if it breaks them everytime you start it LF, I've never seen a left frount or heard of the LF going bad.
3. Check or replace your impeller...If you have sucked a rock,ski rope, etc... into the impeller it may be pitted or out of balance, causing the vibration that is breaking the bolts...

Its some extra work but you have three options keep fixing, try to prevent, or get a newer unit. You can get a new 155 on ebay for 8999 in the Jax FL area. good LUCK and if you find a simpler fix let me know.