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Bleed screw Oil pump help

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Tiggo

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My bleed screw on a 2004 GTI LE RFI broke off. It looks like a M4 but what is the length? Also, is it a standard sealing type washer? Copper? The broken screw and washer fell into the bowels of the boat. Help!
 
I don't think the bleed screw is a regular screw. Some have a hole in the middle and a port at the top close to the sealing area to make it easy to bleed the air out of the system. If you just want to seal it, You'll need a bolt that has a flange top and your copper washer should work. I can look at the screw tomorrow as I have a few oil pumps. Definitely need to be careful tightening those little suckers.
 
Thanks for the reply. I had it out and was bleeding it and it looked like a regular screw/washer except for the long hexagonal head. I have a regular M4 with a washer which is working but it may not be the right length. I don't want to block the port behind the opening. If you could measure the length of the bolt (threaded part) and confirm it is a M4 (4mm width) that would be awesome. Of course I over tightened it like an idiot which caused it to snap :( . I hate to buy an entire oil pump just for the bleed screw.
 
No one knows the details of the bleed screw? Size/length? Pretty sure it is a M4 but don't know the length, I don't want one too long that blocks the flow of oil.
 
Thanks but that comes up as a plug for the Impeller Cover in the Pump assembly. I had my hopes up for a second.
2004 Sea-Doo GTI LE RFI Pump | Sea-Doo Warehouse

Thanks for trying. I went ahead and bought a used oil pump so I could scavenge the Bleed Screw. I guess I'll have a spare Oil Pump now.

I'll also post the dimensions of the screw for future help soon.
 
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Thanks but that comes up as a plug for the Impeller Cover in the Pump assembly. I had my hopes up for a second.
2004 Sea-Doo GTI LE RFI Pump | Sea-Doo Warehouse

Thanks for trying. I went ahead and bought a used oil pump so I could scavenge the Bleed Screw. I guess I'll have a spare Oil Pump now.

I'll also post the dimensions of the screw for future help soon.

Well crap. You said oil pump and all I saw was jet pump. [emoji2361]Sorry I got your hopes up, but I bet if I had read it right the first time, I could have sent you one. I’m pretty sure I have one on my old oil pump.
 
Thanks for the offer. I received the used one today and the bleed screw was perfect. It has a very thin sealing washer which seals small channels on the sides of the screw hole. Included are some pictures with measurements of the screw for future searchers.
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Well crap. You said oil pump and all I saw was jet pump. [emoji2361]Sorry I got your hopes up, but I bet if I had read it right the first time, I could have sent you one. I’m pretty sure I have one on my old oil pump.
Not to hijack the thread.
Lopaka, if you still have a spare oil pump bleeder screw, I'd be more than happy to buy one from you.
 
Thanks for th dimensions Tiggo. I broke my bleeder screw today on my 97 GTX & also bought a used oil pump to get the bleeder screw. It seems that the bolt broke a couple of threads into the hole. How did you remove the remaining part of the bolt? I don't believe I can fully insert the new bleeder screw with the remnants still remaining. Can I put copper hi temp gasket maker at the end of the remnant to get back on the water? Great info on this site. I changed my fuel lines, fuel selector valve, oil lines, oil tank, replaced the upper exhaust pipe after welding aluminum plugs on the welch holes, replaced both carburetors - thought I was getting halfway competent working on a jet ski & break that little screw. LOL
 
Thanks for th dimensions Tiggo. I broke my bleeder screw today on my 97 GTX & also bought a used oil pump to get the bleeder screw. It seems that the bolt broke a couple of threads into the hole. How did you remove the remaining part of the bolt? I don't believe I can fully insert the new bleeder screw with the remnants still remaining. Can I put copper hi temp gasket maker at the end of the remnant to get back on the water? Great info on this site. I changed my fuel lines, fuel selector valve, oil lines, oil tank, replaced the upper exhaust pipe after welding aluminum plugs on the welch holes, replaced both carburetors - thought I was getting halfway competent working on a jet ski & break that little screw. LOL
Mine broke off right at the head, so I had a small piece I could tap with a pick and back it out. I personally wouldn't put gasket maker on it for fear it would find its way into the lines and plug one up. Is it leaking oil? If so, I would wait and replace it.
 
Leaking just a bit of oil. I guess the remnant is blocking most of the flow. The new bleeder hex screw is on the way. Anyone use an EZ out to get the old remnant out of this small diameter hole?
 
Just thought of a possible solution if I can't get the broken bleeder bolt out. Can I just take my whole oil pump
out & replace it with the used oil pump? It looks like just 2 bolts attached to the magneto cover. When you put the replacement oil pump on, there is no gasket or grommet behind it correct? The few exploded parts diagrams I have seen online don't seem to enlarge adequately without losing clarity.
 
My oil pump was leaking so I acquired another. Before the install I tested the oil flow rate per the service manual using a hand drill and two large syringes to measure the output and it was spot on. The oil pump had a square shaped o-ring (if that makes sense) on the install side. I put a dab of molykote on it and bolted it on (with some blue threadlocker). The hardest part was getting the cable back on and after that I made sure to adjust the cable to align the hash marks (one on the pump body and one on the "pulley") I added 5 Gallons of 50:1 and started it up and while at idle, holding the oil pump wide open by hand (not letting the cable slip back off) until all the air bubbles passed by. Thats just what I did, and I am just learning so some steps may or may not be necessary, it's just what I did. Hope this helps!
 
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