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Best way to replace the oil lines (2 stroke)

skaatevw

New Member
I am new to this forum, We have a 1996 2 stroke Sea doo GTX, I checked this week to get ready for summer fun, and found ALL THE OIL in the bottom of the boat? I have read that tanks cracks now, I will check that for sure, but when getting my hands in there, I touched the small lines on top of pump, they were so brittle that they broke right off! What is the procedure to replace them, what needs to come off? Please send me AYTHING that you good people may think will help, My bettter half is screaming to get on this ride, lol. Thanks again
SKATEVW
 
I found it nearly impossible to do without taking the carbs off, I think on my 97 gsx that has the 787 like yours I could do the oil line to the mag cylinder but had to take the pto carb off. I have always used OEM oil line from BRP for those lines, just because of their importance, wanted to be sure the ID was exactly correct. If you do decide to get them at a mower shop or hardware store instead the ID is 3/32”. Let me know if yo TV need a part number for the OEM ones and I can give you a number. The original clamps can come off by squeezing the ends in, this will open them up enough to get them off, I use small zip ties to keep them in place, the oil lines can be difficult to get on, I sometimes heat the end of the line with a hair dryer, then hold them on a angle from the fitting with a pair of needle nose, I find it easier to start the oil line on the fitting in a 45 degree angle, There is ways to take the oil pump off and run it with a drill to get oil back in the new hoses but I’ve always just pre mixed the fuel in the tank and then start the machine, reach down and pull the oil pump lever to wide open, you should see the oil pulse up the lines and fill with oil in about 10 seconds or so. You could also squirt some injection oil in the intake manifold before you put the carbs back on, I guess really this would be even better then pre mixing till the lines fill up, if your careful and don’t damage the carb gaskets you can re use them, torque you carbs down to the proper spec. Oh, and also when your taking the old lines off, I cut down the length of the old line where they are fitted in the fitting with a new utility knife blade haut so I’m not putting to much pressure on the oil pump or intake manifold fittings, wouldn’t want them to break lol. Hope this helps
 
I would suggest you do not reuse the carb gaskets and if they are original they will not come off easily and the last thing you want is an air leak.

To bleed the little oil lines all you have to do is start the ski and at idle hole the oil pump arm wide open. The skis take basically no oil at idle and will be fine until the oil purges the air out. You don't need to go to the trouble of premixing or adding additional oil, there will be enough residual in the crankcase from the last time it ran.
 
WOW, I thank both of you guys, I ride stand up Kawasaki's and this is totally a different ball game. YES, I would like the part # for the hose, again, thanks. One other thing, the tank emptied almost to the bottom, so I dont think it is the tank seam in middle? And the first time it leaked, I replaced the seal for the hose outlet? , what else should I do?
 
WOW, I thank both of you guys, I ride stand up Kawasaki's and this is totally a different ball game. YES, I would like the part # for the hose, again, thanks. One other thing, the tank emptied almost to the bottom, so I dont think it is the tank seam in middle? And the first time it leaked, I replaced the seal for the hose outlet? , what else should I do?
686FE8CD-007C-4509-8D53-64A7043D562B.jpegHere’s that number for the hose 219704404, there’s probably 9 different numbers for that hose so don’t be alarmed if they put that number in and say it’s a different number. It should come as a 1500mm length though. As for the oil leaking out, not sure I would clean it up real well in there and then line everything with paper towels to help give you a better idea where it’s leaking. Take the spark plugs out, ground the plug wires and roll it over though just in case it leaked out the rotary valve past the seals into the crankcase. Probably didn’t, but just to be safe.
 
You are correct, I would replace the lower tank grommet when you have the oil system drained.
 
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