Battery not charging '96 GTX

[bz1mcr]

For over two years now I have to keep a charger on my battery when the machine is on the lift. If I don't battery voltage will gradually drop until the machine will no longer fire up. Even if it is cranking OK, it will not fire up if the battery is down enough that it is showing "low Voltage" on the display. As long as it is well charged, it will fire up and run fine for several hours. But, if allowed to set for a couple of weeks after a run the battery is sometimes down enough that it will not fire, unless put on the charger for a while.

It's possible something is draining the battery in storage, but I think it is more likely the on board charger is not working. How can it be checked out?
Is there a fuse to check?


My '95 XP runs all season with out needing a battery charge. They both have the same batteries and usage pattern (normally both run at the same time). The XP seems to get charged up when running, the GTX does not.

What should I check?

 

[kustomkarl]

Here is a check for you to see if the PWC is charging. When the engine is running, set your voltmeter for 20 VDC and put the leads on the correct terminal posts. With the engine running, you should be reading anywhere from 14.5 to 14.8 VDC. (typically this test is done at 5,000 rpms) This tells you your charging circuit is good. If the voltage is higher, the regulator is bad. If you’re not showing a charge and you've replaced the rectifier, you may want to do a test on the Magneto/stator/charging coil. If you’re not a premium member and you don't have access to a manual, this test will be hard to do without it. There are 2 fuses that protect the charging system. Check the 15 amp fuse in the MPEM and the 15 amp fuse between the solenoid and the MPEM.

The magneto and stator create un-regulated AC current. The "rectifier" converts that AC to DC current and the regulator maintains the current between 14 to 14.5 volts DC for the engines operation and charging circuit.

Here is test to see if you have a voltage draw.
Disconnect the neg cable from the battery. Take a 12 volt test lamp and connect it between the cable end and the battery post (Lanyard cap must be off DESS post). If the test lamp lites then you have a constant draw on the battery and this is not good. I would then start disconnecting components, one at a time, to see if any of these are causing a draw on the battery. In your case I would start with the info gauge then go to the rectifier and then go to the VTS module, etc. Note: using a volt meter connected between the cable end and the battery post will not work. It must be a 12volt test LITE.
Lite on...draw. No lite on...no draw.

Do you have a seadoo manual to help with the electrical problem?
If you want you could join as a "premium member". As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and privet use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too.

Karl

 

[bz1mcr]

Karl,
Thanks for the reply and information. Unfortunately I won't have acess to the machine for about two weeks. I'll do the voltage check and that should be a good start.

I can only guess that the MPEM is the Main ?P? Electronics Module, but I don't know where it is or how to find the 15A fuse in it. You also mentioned a solenoid. Is that the starter solenoid? If so I know where that is. Is the fuse an inline fuse just suspended in the wire going to the solenoid? From your description I am guessing that if either of those fuses was blown the machine would not be cranking and running normally. So, perhaps they are OK.

I think VTS is Variable Thrust System. My 95 XP has that, but the 96 GTX does not. So I guess that leaves the rectifer and info gauge as possible unwanted battery loads. I'm thinking it could be the rectifier as that would explaine both issues, lack of charging, and voltage drop during storage.

Wher is the rectifier located? Do you know the P/N and a good online supplier?

Don

 

[kustomkarl]

The MPEM (Multi Purpose Electronic Control Module)is the newer version of the control module in your seadoo. Follow the + cable from the battery to the electrical box to locate the fuse. In the box next to the solenoid. The cable goes directly to the solenoid and then also jumps to the control module. The other side of the solenoid goes directly to the starter.

Karl