Attn : timmyboy76 and MOTO-Madness

[4Run4Fun]

My 2000XP is still not back to normal.
I removed the carbs again, took the new n/s spring out and replaced it with the old one that was in there before as you suggested timmyboy, cleaned everyting again, and reassembled. That definately helped. The backfiring seems to be fixed, and it starts much easier, but it still will not exceed 3000 RPMs in the water. It will rev to about 7K on the trailer, but even that is not as pepppy as it should be. Other skis I have will fly up the RPM range when you hit the throttle, this one takes a little longer. Its almost as if the high speed fuel circuit is not working at all. I have the screws set as instructed at lsa 1.5 turns out, and hsa all the way in.

I had a question also about something I noticed during the rebuild. When you remove the metering block from the fuel bowl, there is an orifice on one side that seems to contain what looks like a really tiny brass BB. My question is, is that BB supposed to move? I sprayed carb cleaner in what looked to be the other end of that orifice and nothing would pass the BB, it seemed to be fixed in place. Could this be totally blocking the high speed fuel circuit?

I know I am ranting, but after having the carbs off and on about 5 times, I am really frustrated.

Thanks,
Ryan

 

[timmyboy76]

Ryan...sounds your carbs are perfect. While they were off, did you happen to look at the conditions of the reeds/pedals. Also, went thru your other "thread" and didnt see anything mentioned about, RAVE cleaning?

 

[4Run4Fun]

Thanks for the reply!
During my numerous carb removals, I did not inspect the reeds. Since I took them off together and left the head pipe on, I never removed the intake manifolds so I couldn't see the reeds. I have not addressed the RAVES either, but in the past when my RAVEs were in bad shape (on other skis) I only lost a couple of MPH on the top end, nothing near this serious.

Did you get a chance to think about what I mentioned about the metering block and the tiny brass BB in the end of one of the orifices? I swear that thing has to move in some sort. It wouldn't make any sense to bore an orifice in the metering block and then engineer a brass ball to close it off again.

Just out of curiousity, why are the high speed screws always set to all the way in? I know these are not automotive carbs, but in my experience, all the way in totally shuts off the fuel flow through that circuit. Should I try backing them out a 1/4 turn or something?

Thanks,

Ryan

 

[timmyboy76]

#40

I've seen those "brass" b.b.s here..
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=71&B=16

Are you referring to #53

As for raves, yours could be completely closed/stuck at idle position.

 

[4Run4Fun]

RE : RAVEs - I had not thought of that. I will get into them tonight!

RE : Brass BB - Its inside part #40. The little metering block that you take out (to expose the jets underneath). When it comes out, its like shaped like a slice of pizza. The orifice is located on one of the sides (not the top or bottom ) . There is a tiny hole ( maybe 1mm or less) that seems to be connected to another hole on the top of the metering block. Right at the end of the hole on the side there is a tiny brass ball blocking the hole - and I cannot get it to move. It just didn't sit right with me when I saw it. I couldn't figure out what purpose it could serve if the ball didn't move. I saw no mention of it in the manual, and it wasn't addressed in the .pdf carb rebuild guide I found here on the forum. I am grasping at straws, I know.

Ryan

 

[timmyboy76]

yeah, know what ur talk'n about. I've messed w/ them "while back", ans only conclusion i came up with, is thats the "holding area" to cast the piece, then they plug it, with brass ball...?

 

[4Run4Fun]

Ok, that makes me feel better. I was sure there had to be some purpose to that part. So, if you say the thing doesn't move, then I'll concentrate on something else.

What do you think about backing out the High speed adjustment a smidge?

Ryan

 

[timmyboy76]

leave it alone.

 

[4Run4Fun]

Alright, no touching the the HSA - gotcha.

I suppose my next step is get into those RAVEs.

Thanks,

Ryan

 

[4Run4Fun]

Upon disassembly of the RAVE vavles I discovered that under one cap - there was NO SPRING. Therefore, one RAVE was amost always open, and the other alomst always closed. Installed a replacment spring and cleaned the RAVES, they were not bad at all - very little buildup.

Took the ski back too the water and that made a huge differene. Now she tops out at about 4800-4900 RPM. Still not where it needs to be, but worlds better. Once it reaches that RPM it develops what sounds like a miss in the engine. Kind of a intermittent sputter, just enough to hold it back from really opening up. and it holds steady at about 4850RPM. During the hole-shot it will spike to just over 5K, but once on plane and the pump is hooked up good, she's stuck at 4850.

I treid several different preloads on the RAVE spring, but saw very little diffrence. The best was with the red screw about flush with the top of the black cap.

If its not one thing its a dozen. Now on to a new diagnosis.

Ryan

 

[timmyboy76]

man...wish a lake was that close...

Have you done compression test?

 

[4Run4Fun]

Yea, I paid out the yin-yan for a place on the lake, and I'm mortgaged to the hilt to prove it!

I did a compression check early on in the process. I cannot remember the exact numbers but both were over 140psi and with about 5 psi of each other.

I know you told me not to mess with the hsa, but I am SO tempted. What are the dangers of messing with that? Engine damage? I'm just trying to squeze the last 2k RPMs out of this beast.

Ryan

 

[timmyboy76]

WE WANT PICS....

Nuth'n will happen, just foul plugs.