As you can tell by my name and post count...

[Tenderfoot]

...this might not be pretty.

First, I'll give my disclaimer: I spend enough time on other forums (usually the 1911 forum, since you asked) that I know how it is, with new members popping up and asking the same old lame questions every other day. The general response is a slightly annoyed listing of previous threads, which usually kills the thread off pretty quickly. I'm good with that, just need to get some help!

I've owned a 1996 GTS for around 7 or 8 years now. Bought it, used it until I got a boat, and the family gravitated away from it. So, I did the responsible thing, and parked it in the back yard for the next 4 years or so....

Which brings me to my longwinded question: at this point, can I save this thing and make it work again? I don't do mechanic work as a rule, but am a relatively quick study and willing to try. In it's current condition, I know it isn't worth much, and would like to give it a go. So, where should I start on it, and what are the odds it'll go? Thanks for any help, sorry if I'm asking redundant questions!:stupid:

 

[JPX]

Welcome.

Plan on some serious work ahead of you. It is possible to save the boat, but you have to know that you must methodically work through each stage to get it to turn over and determine if major reconstruction is necessary.

I'd start by pulling the spark plugs and inspecting the cylinders. Then remove the PTO cover so you can attempt to hand crank the engine at the shaft. Squirt WD-40 or oil into the cylinders to make sure it can move with some lubrication. You want to motor to be able to move freely before you crank the starter on it.

Also, you'd want to make sure all water has been removed. This seems silly if they haven't been in the water. But the hulls can fill with rainwater (or left over water from previous usage). Check the MPEM and ignition boxes for water or moisture. Dry them out and remove electrical connections, clean terminals and reseat.

Carbs - you need to take apart the carbs to make sure they have free flowing internal filters and no garbage in side. Expect to change the fuel lines from grey to black and blow out the fuel selector valve. Anything in the fuel tank? Get it ALL out.

If the motor can roll over, then you might be clear to attempt to crank with the starter. Do it WITHOUT the plugs at first - you might have some stuff in there that needs to be blown out. Then confirm compression with a compression test gauge. Can hold compression? Plan on a cylinder rebuild.

 

[Tenderfoot]

In the immortal words of Moses, "OY!"

So, when the local mechanic said to plan on spending around $500.00, he's not hosing me when charging that... but then, he won't be changing out the hoses and so forth either, will he?

So am I better off paying him to get it in running shape, then change hoses, etc. myself, or can I do this thing??

 

[JPX]

$500 would be a smoking deal if the boat is brought to a steady (if precarious) state of operation. You'd still want to plan on replacing fuel hoses and all that for long term reliability.

Can't wait to hear how things go after a trip to the ski-doc!

 

[Tenderfoot]

Clean living pays off...

So, my wife keeps wearing me out that, before I take the SeaDoo in, I should work on it myself. I tell her no way I'm gonna be able to fix it, right? Been sitting up since '04, right?

So I went out tonight and changed the spark plugs, put my 4 wheeler battery in, and turned it over. It sputtered once, I remembered to pull the choke, and WALA, it cranks right up! Down side is, had to tolerate a completely undeserved "I told you so!" from the wife. Good thing is, no $500 bill jst to get it going!

Question now is, what's necessary to do to be sure it'll work okay at the lake? Should I empty all the old fuel in there out, or go ahead and try to run it through, or what? How do I empty the fuel from it (a link to an old thread that might help?)? I did notice that it does NOT have the gray color hoses, but instead has clear to (now) yellow hoses on the fuel lines. Do these need to be replaced as well? Now that I've got it running, what do I do? :stupid:

 

[JPX]

So, my wife keeps wearing me out that, before I take the SeaDoo in, I should work on it myself. I tell her no way I'm gonna be able to fix it, right? Been sitting up since '04, right?

So I went out tonight and changed the spark plugs, put my 4 wheeler battery in, and turned it over. It sputtered once, I remembered to pull the choke, and WALA, it cranks right up! Down side is, had to tolerate a completely undeserved "I told you so!" from the wife. Good thing is, no $500 bill jst to get it going!

Yay! Sometimes all it is a boost of confidence and a kick in the ass to get in there are give it a go. :hurray:

Question now is, what's necessary to do to be sure it'll work okay at the lake? Should I empty all the old fuel in there out, or go ahead and try to run it through, or what? How do I empty the fuel from it (a link to an old thread that might help?)? I did notice that it does NOT have the gray color hoses, but instead has clear to (now) yellow hoses on the fuel lines. Do these need to be replaced as well? Now that I've got it running, what do I do? :stupid:

Clear hose, for fuel? There is clear hosing for the oil injection system. But the fuel hoses should either be black (means someone figured it out) or grey (hopefully not). Don't get these confused! On the clear oil lines, just make sure they are not cracked or leaking at the zip ties.

I wouldn't run with the existing gas - siphon it out (local thug knows how to do this) or simply go to auto parts store and legitimately buy a siphon hose/bulb. Use the old gas in a lawn mower or something. If you feel you MUST use the old gas, at least dilute it by filling it up with as much new gas a possible.

(Should you really mix $2.50/gal gas with $4.50/gal gas?....hmmm.:lols

For the lake, you should still plan on some trouble. If the carbs' internal filters are crudded up, then you may not get to enjoy full power from the boat....it could even be pretty erratic. So be prepared to have to confront the fuel system at some point. May want to verify low/high speed adjuster screws positions in case anyone was messing with them before.

Check for water leaks, in particular at the rear where the shaft goes through the hull. Check the hull for water filling frequently while riding. You don't want a relatively small but steady water leak to end up choking what you seem to have found is a working motor!

And make sure you take care of the ski properly after you take it out of the water. The long term storage is tough on these skis if it isn't done right.

 

[derek]

first, do the oil in the jet pump. it has been in there for nearly 10 years. 96. carbon ring on the driveshaft seal or bearing and seal and lube fitting. lube fitting? grease it. grease pto while you are in there. now get rid of those fuel lines. all of 'em. black 1/4 inch from any auto parts store. big fuel filter-seperator up high in engine compartment. empty it and clean screen. hook it back up and crank motor while watching it. fills right back up? fuel pump is ok. premix the fuel with 2-stroke oil. 50 to 1. you can't trust the oil injection until you see the oil level in tank go down while running. now back it down the ramp and fire it up. make sure it is tied to trailer so it won't drive up into the truck bed. hold it at fairly high throttle while on trailer. pushes water hard and holds rpm? no water coming in? time to go riding. and btw. that i told you so from spousal unit was completly deserved. you wanted to pay somebody for basic maintenance.