• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

Anyone had this calamity occur? Challenger crank died... why EXACTLY?

Status
Not open for further replies.

IDoSeaDoo

Well-Known Member
I have a 97 Challenger w/ single 787. Rebuilt top end in Dec, running everything stock. Was running autolite 65's to break it in (these plugs are invincible to fouling!). It's what the guys at Advance crossed the NGKs to, but I'm not sure if these plugs were the right heat range. I simply forgot to swap them out for the correct NGKs. Anyway, the motor broke in perfectly, had 150psi on both holes. Was running it quite often the entire winter despite my pump cavitation. (I know, I know, shoulda fixed that). Anyway, I had four people on it last sunday and we managed to plane out, minutes before the crank gave up.
Upon disassembly, I found that the rear cyl had 90psi while front was at 140. Piston crowns looked good with normal wear. Cyl walls looked ok. With jugs removed I saw that the crank bearing failed and the c-rod actually moves up/down on the crack itself. Not sure how old that thing is, probably from '96. The plugs were pretty brown, like a coffee color. The PTO was a lighter color, but I also found signs of water intrusion on the dome. Closer inspection of the jugs showed burned out head gasket rings. Also, I noted that the lower expansion pipe was super heated and even changed color. The paint actually peeled off around the cone and the exhaust hose had a hole in it :facepalm: I didn't think it was running that lean, as the high needles were turned out 1/4 on each cyl, but now I suspect otherwise. Seems that it's not enough to compensate for the cold air (45-70 degF). So anyone have any theories as to why the crank gave out? What should I do to prevent this in the future? If the cylinders are w/in spec dimensionally, any reason I shouldn't re-use them w/ another bottom end?
Thanks guys
 
Oh no!

Most will tell you, more hp (TE only) with old crank = complete rebuild.

How the ski running? Did you do a top end on the xp too?
 
Sorry it happened. But it's not than unusual, even though you did a top end you've still got a 13 year old crank. Personally when it's time to do a top end I just get a re-man engine. I learned the hard way too, "back in the day" I installed high performance heads on my Camero 30 days later it needed a new crank.

Lou
 
what about the water in the cylinder? those head o-rings were cooked to where they split. you don't think hydrolock could have played a role?
 
Could incorrect heat-range plugs help cause such heat to cook head-gaskets and peel paint off the expansion pipe? Like I said, I was running both high jets 1/4 turn out. Spec says to have MAG closed and PTO out 1/4 (I think). Will be running 1/2 turns out next time and watching the paint next time!
 
Sorry it happened. But it's not than unusual, even though you did a top end you've still got a 13 year old crank. Personally when it's time to do a top end I just get a re-man engine. I learned the hard way too, "back in the day" I installed high performance heads on my Camero 30 days later it needed a new crank.

Lou
totally agree.
in most instances replacing or doing a top end puts more load on a worn bottom and boom...
A lot of customers would only do a Head/valve repair and not follow recommended engine rebuild to suit, specifically the 4 banger chrysler engines, restore lost compression and it just kills the crank bearings all that much faster...
 
Could incorrect heat-range plugs help cause such heat to cook head-gaskets and peel paint off the expansion pipe? Like I said, I was running both high jets 1/4 turn out. Spec says to have MAG closed and PTO out 1/4 (I think). Will be running 1/2 turns out next time and watching the paint next time!

in short NO. to high heat range will blister the plug core, to cold and it will foul, you`ll know either way by viewing.
now, if you had detonation or knock you could have been beating up the old components, but that also would have been evident on the piston crowns and ring lands.

My vote would be it was just time for the crank to give up the ghost. and like Lou states, it would just simplify things to get a complet reman and call it a day...
now is a good opportunity to go thru the carbs and assure they are clean...

good luck... PS, you can`t beat NGK`s... I`ve never had any NGK foul even with heavy premixing...
 
I could be off base here, but if you have cavitation to the extend that you describe would that not also limit the water flow to the engine and give you insufficient cooling. Engine would get hot, blow seals, melt pipes, get water in the motor etc.
 
I could be off base here, but if you have cavitation to the extend that you describe would that not also limit the water flow to the engine and give you insufficient cooling. Engine would get hot, blow seals, melt pipes, get water in the motor etc.

he should check the water regulator as well...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top