Anyone ever tried a ball-valve behind the water-flush line?

[scooper77515]

I was talking with the wife about how I keep destroying vice-grips when flushing the engine on the garden hose, because they rust up from exposure to the water, then I thought about installing a nylon ball-valve.

Anyone done it? Anyone think of any problems from using one?

I have one that is PVC or nylon, and has a large plastic turn-key. 90 degree turn and it opens for running, 90 degrees other way and it shuts off, for running on the hose.

Any Yeas or Nays?

 

[robin savell lloyd]

I can not see where this will hurt. :cheers:

 

[Skatman]

Brass....

The only valve material in design that is impervious to rust and corrosion is brass........
But my question here is why you keep using vise grips or why you want a ball valve in the first place. If your talking about the water overflow while flushing, that's suppose to happen by design. It's a bleed off to keep from over pressuring the system.........
I must have missed something......:cheers:

 

[robin savell lloyd]

Skatman may have a point here. I only run in fresh water and do not flush so I assumed that your proceedure was correct. I would have to read up on flushing. I thought I had read some where that a water line needed to be blocked off when flushing but I could very well be mistaken. I just looked at my manual and it does say to block off water outlet I can only assume this is so that it will be a reverse flush. Seadoo even sales a tool for this. part number 529 030 400 I still do not see where ball vave would be bad. Louis I never knew that pvc or cpvc would corode

 

[Mirage]

I found this, was wondering if anyone has used it???

http://www.pwcproflush.com/

 

[robin savell lloyd]

That looks intresting Mirage.

 

[scooper77515]

That kit even has the nylon valve I am talking about. I bet that would be a great kit for those who put theirs up for a season, but I use mine all year around. Just may skip a week or two if it is too nasty out.

The manual says to flush the engine by using a crimp to pinch the tube behind the fresh water connection. (I forgot yesterday, and the water just comes straight out the big hole in the back, and doesn't go through the engine cooling passages).

I do this for a couple minutes after each salt water session unless I stop by a fresh water boat launch on the way home. Then I just put the trailer in the water and run it a few minutes on the trailer. Sometimes I ski it for a few minutes.

While flushing it on the hose, after a couple minutes, I taste the water coming out the little "pee-hole" in the back and if it doesn't taste salty, I know I am done.

Anyways, I figured a ball valve would never break, get lost, rattle around in my front hull-bucket, etc. And if I needed to get a tow, I could just pop off the seat, crank the valve closed, and enjoy my ride...

I mainly asked because it seems that if it was this simple and efficient, SeaDoo would have put one in at the factory...

 

[robin savell lloyd]

Scott that sounded a little nasty drinking out of the pee hole and if it were salty it was not ready yet.:rofl: I believe seadoo has to keep the price down in order to stay competative. that is why you may see other things you think they could improve upon. :cheers:

 

[robin savell lloyd]

Scott I may be wrong but I do not think that ball valve would be in the right place for a tow as in my manual it would go on the outlet and for a tow I would think it would need to be on inlet.

 

[scooper77515]

inlet/outlet

I need to look at my manual...I think it says to crimp it in the same place both ways. I could be wrong, but I will look it up when I get home (currently, at my folks' beach house for vacation, today is last day).

 

[kustomkarl]

Scott, I went to Walmarts ans purchased a coupling with plastic and brass fitting. I pop it in the threads of the seadoo hose fitting by hand, and the other end screws on the hose. It works like a coupler and the 2 fittings Hose, and Boat clip together. When the seadoo is running it allows the correct water to cool and clean the cooling system. All the excess pressure is coming out the rear hose to prevent damage to the engine from allowing too much water to back flow into the exhaust. When you tow a seadoo you clamp off the feed line, coming into the cooling system, not the exhausted water out of the boat. I don't have a picture but all the Walmarts sell them...Black and brass color, in the garden section....like $2.25

Karl

 

[scooper77515]

Ooops...

...I forgot to respond to Robin's pee drinking comment...sorry:ack:

I left myself open for that one, but all my life, since I was a little tyke on my parents' outboard, we always called that the "pee hole". I think it is obvious why we called it that...:reddevil:

I am looking at my Clymer manual as we speak, and will scan it, but my scanner is not working and I am downloading the 75Meg driver as I type this. I will add the picture later when the scanner starts to work...

I am crimping the outlet hose, and maybe that wording is confusing people. The picture in the owners manual AND the clymer rebuild manual show crimping just behind the fresh-water hose inlet. This is where I was thinking of installing the valve.

Now that I am home and reading the books, it does NOT say to crimp any hoses for towing, but to just "have the watercraft towed at a moderate speed" which sounds misleading and potentially dangerous to me. Moderate in my language is 25-45 mph...

We all know to keep is much slower than that...

Karl, are you talking about a T for the garden hose...? I need to see it to understand what you are talking about. And now that I am looking at the photos, I see which hose needs to be crimped for towing. It is down in the bottom, not the one at the top, right?

 

[scooper77515]

I am looking at my Clymer manual as we speak, and will scan it, but my scanner is not working and I am downloading the 75Meg driver as I type this. I will add the picture later when the scanner starts to work...

I give up...worked on installing this scanner for WAY too long, and it is not cooperating.

Anyway, thinking of installing this valve just behind where the inlet is for the fresh water hose...Where you normally crimp it for flushing.

I just hope that I never need to be towed, or that the tow-er is kind enough to go slow...:hat:

 

[robin savell lloyd]

Sory Scott but I have to stick with this untill some one can prove to me that my manual is wrong or that I have read it wrong. [ Scott I may be wrong but I do not think that ball valve would be in the right place for a tow as in my manual it would go on the outlet. and for a tow I would think it would need to be on inlet. ] :hurray:

 

[scooper77515]

I think you are right

When I got home and searched my manual, they said only to "tow it at a moderate speed" and nothing about crimping any hoses. It just makes logical sense that if you were to crimp the top outlet hose, it would still let water in the engine, and the lower inlet hose should be crimped.

But I could still use the valve for flushing, which I do MUCH more than getting towed...

 

[robin savell lloyd]

The only valve material in design that is impervious to rust and corrosion is brass........
But my question here is why you keep using vise grips or why you want a ball valve in the first place. If your talking about the water overflow while flushing, that's suppose to happen by design. It's a bleed off to keep from over pressuring the system.........
I must have missed something......:cheers:

Skatman may still have a point. Sory I forgot that you have a 787 engine and your cooling system may be a little different than mine. :cheers:

 

[scooper77515]

Owners manual says to crimp it there. If I don't the water just pours straight out the back and never goes through the engine for cooling and flushing.

 

[robin savell lloyd]

I guess yours is like mine. some what any ways. :cheers: