My brother bought me a nitrous kit for Christmas. Should get me up to around 500 hp in a 2900 lb maverick.
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Anybody ever mess with this stuff?
- Thread starter scooper77515
- Start date
Motor is brand-spanking new, and I run it to 6500 for 265 hp to the wheels. Did a dyno back in November. That estimates to about 330 at the flywheel.
The nitrous kit is good for 100-125-150. All together, about 480 HP, 2900 lbs, calculators on the internet say 10.6s at 126mph in the 1/4. I will believe it when I have the timeslip in my hand.
Check out this torque curve...pink line at the top. 60 mph is around 3000 rpms. Ignore the electrical glitches that cause the peaks. Grounding problem in the system somewhere.
And the coolest thing is I can drive this thing to work tomorrow morning, if I have to. Or want to.
According to Desktop Dyno, correcting for the elevated numbers, here is what the nitrous does to the torque...
Before (remember, subtract about 50 HP for the correction in both graphs. The dyno graph is the same setup as run on the first Desktop Dyno, except DD is flywheel power, not at the wheels, which is usually 20-25% less).
And After...
I can't wait til spring so I can try this new setup out!!!:reddevil:
The nitrous kit is good for 100-125-150. All together, about 480 HP, 2900 lbs, calculators on the internet say 10.6s at 126mph in the 1/4. I will believe it when I have the timeslip in my hand.
Check out this torque curve...pink line at the top. 60 mph is around 3000 rpms. Ignore the electrical glitches that cause the peaks. Grounding problem in the system somewhere.
And the coolest thing is I can drive this thing to work tomorrow morning, if I have to. Or want to.
According to Desktop Dyno, correcting for the elevated numbers, here is what the nitrous does to the torque...
Before (remember, subtract about 50 HP for the correction in both graphs. The dyno graph is the same setup as run on the first Desktop Dyno, except DD is flywheel power, not at the wheels, which is usually 20-25% less).
And After...
I can't wait til spring so I can try this new setup out!!!:reddevil:
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HatCAM
I do a thing where I wear a video camera on a CarCraft hat.
Whenever I screw something up, i usually have my HatCAM on.
I plan on wearing it for the initial launch of this little project...:reddevil:
I have no problem with breaking stuff.
In fact, I sorta do it as an experiment. I break stuff, and tell the less experienced people what you CAN NOT do...
Go to youtube and look up scooper77515, there are some dyno runs, and other stuff to enjoy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7DM5dvxl1ZQ
I do a thing where I wear a video camera on a CarCraft hat.
Whenever I screw something up, i usually have my HatCAM on.
I plan on wearing it for the initial launch of this little project...:reddevil:
I have no problem with breaking stuff.
In fact, I sorta do it as an experiment. I break stuff, and tell the less experienced people what you CAN NOT do...
Go to youtube and look up scooper77515, there are some dyno runs, and other stuff to enjoy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7DM5dvxl1ZQ
I agree. 10s sound pretty far fetched, but low 12s, maybe 11s are possible.
Nitrous...
Remember, nitrous is not explosive. It doesn't add horsepower by an increase in the combustable fuel, it aids in how fast and with what heat this takes place.
Nitrous is an oxidizer. It's used in street rods and from my experience using it in my 20's, is not really worth the risks in using it, verses the damage that can occur to the pistons.
When you use Nitrous, make sure you use the complete kit that is set up to ensure the N02 does not activate the solenoid to allow nitrous fogging until the throttle plates are wide open. And more important is that the N02 is shut down before letting off the throttles. My engine burnt a hole in the top of my number 5 piston when my solenoid stuck open.
Was it fun? Yes, it will throw your head in the back seat. Is it dangerous? Yes. Of course, it's not only dangereous to the engine but in the event of a car wreck, it can pose a high explosive hazard. Not to mention a gas leak can cause you to pass out at the wheel if it fills up your cars interior. Usually, the draft from a car not being so tight will keep this from happening. But, a newer car is a lot more airtight than the older ones......
Oh, don't make a face mask from the tank like I did for the "laughing gas" part of it. IT's a blast but dangereous.......:cheers:
Remember, nitrous is not explosive. It doesn't add horsepower by an increase in the combustable fuel, it aids in how fast and with what heat this takes place.
Nitrous is an oxidizer. It's used in street rods and from my experience using it in my 20's, is not really worth the risks in using it, verses the damage that can occur to the pistons.
When you use Nitrous, make sure you use the complete kit that is set up to ensure the N02 does not activate the solenoid to allow nitrous fogging until the throttle plates are wide open. And more important is that the N02 is shut down before letting off the throttles. My engine burnt a hole in the top of my number 5 piston when my solenoid stuck open.
Was it fun? Yes, it will throw your head in the back seat. Is it dangerous? Yes. Of course, it's not only dangereous to the engine but in the event of a car wreck, it can pose a high explosive hazard. Not to mention a gas leak can cause you to pass out at the wheel if it fills up your cars interior. Usually, the draft from a car not being so tight will keep this from happening. But, a newer car is a lot more airtight than the older ones......
Oh, don't make a face mask from the tank like I did for the "laughing gas" part of it. IT's a blast but dangereous.......:cheers:
This kit sprays both nitrous and gas at the same time to keep the engine from leaning out. I keep the car running a bit rich, anyways, which should help out here. Not so rich as to smell bad at the exhaust, but rich enough to knock my fuel efficiency down a bit.
Also, there is a blow-off valve installed, that will have a metal tube running out the floor, so it will not fill the car with nitrous, but spray it out the bottom of the car if overpressurized or overheated.
I have less than $400 invested in this engine, since it was a steal how I got the block and rotating assembly, and many of the parts were donated, traded, etc. The only part I had to "buy" was the carb which was around $600. So if I crater the engine, I will have fun doing it and will hopefully be able to reuse the carb.
Eventually, I would like to go with a roots-type 6-71 blower on a lower compression engine, so a rebuild and/or new rotating assembly are in the works someday.
Here is what all comes with the kit...
Also, there is a blow-off valve installed, that will have a metal tube running out the floor, so it will not fill the car with nitrous, but spray it out the bottom of the car if overpressurized or overheated.
I have less than $400 invested in this engine, since it was a steal how I got the block and rotating assembly, and many of the parts were donated, traded, etc. The only part I had to "buy" was the carb which was around $600. So if I crater the engine, I will have fun doing it and will hopefully be able to reuse the carb.
Eventually, I would like to go with a roots-type 6-71 blower on a lower compression engine, so a rebuild and/or new rotating assembly are in the works someday.
Here is what all comes with the kit...
Sikiguya
Active Member
Be sure to check with your insurance provider. Most carrier do not like modifications or race purpose equipments in the car, i.e. roll cages and such. Concern is that you will try racing with the car....thus increasing the risk. Just a fact you need to address before putting a lot of money into it. :toetap05::driving::willy_nilly:
Good point on the insurance...On to the internet to do some research.
Scooper....
I know you personally so I think you know what your gettin into. There is a place for nitrous in a nice engine set up for a boost of performance. The only problems I've seen is from people who have no knowledge what so ever about the damages it can cause. So, I'm sure you know all about what you are doing......:cheers:
This kit sprays both nitrous and gas at the same time to keep the engine from leaning out. I keep the car running a bit rich, anyways, which should help out here. Not so rich as to smell bad at the exhaust, but rich enough to knock my fuel efficiency down a bit.
Also, there is a blow-off valve installed, that will have a metal tube running out the floor, so it will not fill the car with nitrous, but spray it out the bottom of the car if overpressurized or overheated.
I have less than $400 invested in this engine, since it was a steal how I got the block and rotating assembly, and many of the parts were donated, traded, etc. The only part I had to "buy" was the carb which was around $600. So if I crater the engine, I will have fun doing it and will hopefully be able to reuse the carb.
Eventually, I would like to go with a roots-type 6-71 blower on a lower compression engine, so a rebuild and/or new rotating assembly are in the works someday.
Here is what all comes with the kit...
I know you personally so I think you know what your gettin into. There is a place for nitrous in a nice engine set up for a boost of performance. The only problems I've seen is from people who have no knowledge what so ever about the damages it can cause. So, I'm sure you know all about what you are doing......:cheers:
Nooooooo...not really:reddevil:
Never messed with this stuff. I was going to go forced induction, but my brother gave me this for Christmas, so I figured "what the heck"
:cheers:
robin savell lloyd
Active Member
[Fact] you will either have a hole lott of fun or problems. My guess would be both. I hope that you have a hole lott of fun before you see problems. :cheers:
So far, nothing but problems.
There is a pretty good bit of plumbing, and it all wants to go to the same places.
The nitrous and fuel solenoids mount right where my dual feed fuel rail plugs in, not to mention I have yet to figure out how to run the third fuel line to the nitrous solenoid.
I will end up re-plumbing the entire engine bay. Braided stainless and -AN fittings are expensive, so this may take a while to get installed and tested.
In fact, I may just cap everything off or remove the nitrous plate for now. I have to pay a couple bills off before I can afford to assemble this add-on.
There is a pretty good bit of plumbing, and it all wants to go to the same places.
The nitrous and fuel solenoids mount right where my dual feed fuel rail plugs in, not to mention I have yet to figure out how to run the third fuel line to the nitrous solenoid.
I will end up re-plumbing the entire engine bay. Braided stainless and -AN fittings are expensive, so this may take a while to get installed and tested.
In fact, I may just cap everything off or remove the nitrous plate for now. I have to pay a couple bills off before I can afford to assemble this add-on.
93mustang97sea
New Member
I mess with this shit all the time so if you have any questions please feel free to ask me and ill answer them to my best.. Your gonna maybe get around 400 hp even with the 150 shot. And I'm glad you went with a wet kit..
OK, do I need a second fuel pump?
I was thinking of using a better regulator and gauge, but letting my single holley blue 110 gph do all the work.
Holley says it is good for up to 500 HP worth of fuel flow.
I was thinking of using a better regulator and gauge, but letting my single holley blue 110 gph do all the work.
Holley says it is good for up to 500 HP worth of fuel flow.
SGTDuckButter
New Member
Scooper:
Your transmission can't handle that HP. Good Luck. I can't wait to hear how it works out. I owned a Mavericks in the late 70's. Mine had a straight 6.
Be Careful. I aways wanted to try the stuff out myself.
Your transmission can't handle that HP. Good Luck. I can't wait to hear how it works out. I owned a Mavericks in the late 70's. Mine had a straight 6.Be Careful. I aways wanted to try the stuff out myself.
Transmission won't handle it. Rear is good to 400 hp, this will get me close to 500. Running a spool on 28-spline axles, most likley not going to hold up either.
So, what is your point :reddevil:
So, what is your point :reddevil:
SGTDuckButter
New Member
:chillpill:
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popasodatastie
New Member
Wide Open!
scooper if you want it go for it add the litte boost of power just use in moderation.
scooper if you want it go for it add the litte boost of power just use in moderation.
Hey, Duckbutter, Take everything I say with a hint of humor. I am NOT a serious person. (read below, in signature)
What serious person would tack on 150 shot of nitrous to a 330 hp 5.0, and expect it to blow up either the engine, trans, or rear, and not really care?
ME!
I love to blow stuff up, as long as I am having fun doing it, and learning what the limits are in the process.
If I blow this one up, it gives me an excuse to build a bigger and better engine, maybe finally with that 6-71 blower :reddevil:
As for use, I would never use it off the line, my drivetrain won't handle it. I would have to "ease" off the line and then nail it once things get moving, and even then, I will have it jetted down to only a 100hp hit.
What serious person would tack on 150 shot of nitrous to a 330 hp 5.0, and expect it to blow up either the engine, trans, or rear, and not really care?
ME!
I love to blow stuff up, as long as I am having fun doing it, and learning what the limits are in the process.
If I blow this one up, it gives me an excuse to build a bigger and better engine, maybe finally with that 6-71 blower :reddevil:
As for use, I would never use it off the line, my drivetrain won't handle it. I would have to "ease" off the line and then nail it once things get moving, and even then, I will have it jetted down to only a 100hp hit.
Riverfurm
Member
I used it my old jet boat with a 460 (30 over) Chevy. It had 10 to 1 CR steel crank and forged pistons. It was a great blast but it did not last long. The first time I used it I thought the bottle was not full but it was. A 10# bottle lasted less then a min. Good for drag racing. Ran a fuel prs. gauge to make sure I did't loose prs. when I was on the NOX. I could feal the extra heat when I hit the button. When I took the engine apart (to put bigger piston in) the wrist pins where blue.
Go for it, it was allot of fun.
How much does is cost to fill a 10# bottle?
It was $30 back in the 80s
Go for it, it was allot of fun.
How much does is cost to fill a 10# bottle?
It was $30 back in the 80s
i am getting quotes in the $40 range.
And yes, only good for about 6-8 1/4 mile passes if I jet it down to 100 hp shot. Bigger engines and higher hp shots will suck that bottle dry even quicker.
And yes, only good for about 6-8 1/4 mile passes if I jet it down to 100 hp shot. Bigger engines and higher hp shots will suck that bottle dry even quicker.
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