Any tricks for turning carb screws after installation?

[kilgorekb]

So I went out last night to tune the low-speed and idle screws. I could only get the tip of my index finger on the low-speed T-handle. OK, well, the tip of my finger is tore up from trying to turn the T-handles. Also, I had to cut my tuning short, because there came a point where I just couldn't take the pain on my finger tip. I tried some thin gloves too, but that didn't help.

I know the low-speed screw has a slot for a screwdriver, but the throttle lever is blocking screwdriver access.

So, any tips? Any tool I don't know about? I'm gonna try to think of a makeshift wheel kinda thing to slide over it.

 

[Dr Honda]

The low speed needle is just to trim the fuel at idle. (smooth it out, keep it from loading up)


I've rebuilt a LOT of seadoo carbs. They will run at factory spec, if you cleaned them properly, and the engine is in good condition. So... honestly... if you are stock... there is no need to tune. (unless you are above 4000' MSL)

 

[kilgorekb]

Every party has a pooper..... OK, I had enough fingertip skin grow back in order to set them to oem spec. And since the tuning guide I was reading was from a racing/performace team, I guess I'll believe you.

 

[Britrick]

Hold the throttle on full and the throttle lever moves out of the way , then you can get youre screwdriver onto the screw .

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yeah, honestly, you shouldn't normally have to adjust the idle mixture, it should be close enough with the suggested settings and if it's not then I'd suspect that a problem exists.

If the carbs had been modified to accommodate some engine mods oriented towards performance gains, then yes, it might need some fine tuning, and thats why it has adjustment screws on it. Otherwise, it SHOULD be running fine unless a problem still exists.