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Another GTX Di
- Thread starter G&J
- Start date
- Status
G&J
New Member
OK picked up the GTX Di - and asked the manager about error code he stated there was only one error crankshaft position sensor. So...
I have removed the exhaust to get better access to the area where the sensor is. Before I attempt to remove the magneto cover to physically inspect the sensor and circuit I just wanted to get everyone''s thoughts on any static (resistance etc) checks I should undertake;
1. Resistance between all CPS wires should be zero - that is BK, GY-RE and GY-YL wires.
Will attempt to check at both female socket on magneto cover and other end of cable where it enters MPEM.
Or should I simply follow the instructions on page 06-03-25?
2. Will check and clean MPEM connectors again as I have found corrosion previously, contributing factor?
Other that these checks is there anything else I can/should check?
I have commented previously that the magneto/CPS connector does not sit correctly (loose) so maybe I am looking at intermittent signal when running due to vibration. Anyway just wanted to check everything I can before I start stripping the beast down further.
Thanks in advance
I have removed the exhaust to get better access to the area where the sensor is. Before I attempt to remove the magneto cover to physically inspect the sensor and circuit I just wanted to get everyone''s thoughts on any static (resistance etc) checks I should undertake;
1. Resistance between all CPS wires should be zero - that is BK, GY-RE and GY-YL wires.
Will attempt to check at both female socket on magneto cover and other end of cable where it enters MPEM.
Or should I simply follow the instructions on page 06-03-25?
2. Will check and clean MPEM connectors again as I have found corrosion previously, contributing factor?
Other that these checks is there anything else I can/should check?
I have commented previously that the magneto/CPS connector does not sit correctly (loose) so maybe I am looking at intermittent signal when running due to vibration. Anyway just wanted to check everything I can before I start stripping the beast down further.
Thanks in advance
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
should I simply follow the instructions on page 06-03-25?
2. Will check and clean MPEM connectors again as I have found corrosion previously, contributing factor?
I have commented previously that the magneto/CPS connector does not sit correctly (loose) so maybe I am looking at intermittent signal when running due to vibration. Anyway just wanted to check everything I can before I start stripping the beast down further.
Thanks in advance
Definitely worth a closer look IMO!
Mickirig1
Well-Known Member
Don't make holes in wires with pins etc. Causes problems later on. With corrosion to wire inside the insulation. Might consider taking the black tubes around wires off and feel every inch of the wires. look for green powder on outside of wires. Look for parts that bend too easy. Replace black tubes with wire loom protector. The ribbed stuff with a split down it for installing. Wire / zip tie it back to where it was anchored.
G&J
New Member
Shall do Mickirig1 ! The conector and cable corrosion has always been in the back of my mind as a possible contributing factor, just so hard to nail down that type of fault.
I have been reviewing page 6-03-25 of the service manual which interestingly states...if the tacho shows 300rpm at cranking the CPS circuitry is working properly. Whilst I have not undertaken this crank test yet I have previously monitored RPM at idle and revs and it has appeared to be ok.
Will be interesting to conduct the crank, voltage and resistance checks and see what I get (doesn't look like happening today, crappy weather) either way need to probably crack open magneto cover if not to replace sensor to at least fix up the loose plug mounting.
I have been reviewing page 6-03-25 of the service manual which interestingly states...if the tacho shows 300rpm at cranking the CPS circuitry is working properly. Whilst I have not undertaken this crank test yet I have previously monitored RPM at idle and revs and it has appeared to be ok.
Will be interesting to conduct the crank, voltage and resistance checks and see what I get (doesn't look like happening today, crappy weather) either way need to probably crack open magneto cover if not to replace sensor to at least fix up the loose plug mounting.
Mickirig1
Well-Known Member
I would open the Mag cover. Never know what you will find. One of mine kept popping fuses when I plugged in Mag connector. Pulled cover and the wires to stator had got caught and were grounding in fly wheel teeth. Drove me nuts trying to find the problem. Just make sure all connections are good too. Use VOM to check fuses, some do not seem popped till you test. Ground problems can cause really weird problems. The ground can feed thru other connections causing problems. Current seeks the least resistance to flow.
68ragtop
Well-Known Member
Did your dealer tell you if it was an active code? In other words did they start it up & the CPS went "active"
I only ask because the DI has a different way of storing faults form other skis. It will store how many times a fault happens & will show if its active, or inactive. For example you could get a low or high voltage fault, or a fault from having a sensor unplugged. then remedy the problem but the fault will stay in the memory with a count of how many times it happened since its was last cleared. Might be worth a phone call to see how they came up with it. Sometimes everything has to be cleared/reset & then see what comes up.
Normally your "maint" warning will come on each time a fault is stored & counted.
I had a DI that was tripping the CPS & it turned out to be bad crank bearings. Too much vibration was messing with the sensor. But, that one threw thew the code every time it was revved up.
EDIT: it does also record how many minutes the ski was at when the fault was last recorded. But if the most recent CPS fault was lets say at 6000 & your ski is at 120 hours then the code was tripped 20 run time hours in the past & is probably not what is actively causing a problem. Hope that makes sense.......
I only ask because the DI has a different way of storing faults form other skis. It will store how many times a fault happens & will show if its active, or inactive. For example you could get a low or high voltage fault, or a fault from having a sensor unplugged. then remedy the problem but the fault will stay in the memory with a count of how many times it happened since its was last cleared. Might be worth a phone call to see how they came up with it. Sometimes everything has to be cleared/reset & then see what comes up.
Normally your "maint" warning will come on each time a fault is stored & counted.
I had a DI that was tripping the CPS & it turned out to be bad crank bearings. Too much vibration was messing with the sensor. But, that one threw thew the code every time it was revved up.
EDIT: it does also record how many minutes the ski was at when the fault was last recorded. But if the most recent CPS fault was lets say at 6000 & your ski is at 120 hours then the code was tripped 20 run time hours in the past & is probably not what is actively causing a problem. Hope that makes sense.......
Last edited by a moderator:
G&J
New Member
UPDATE
Tests performed;
1. Check RPM while cranking if approx 300 RPM CPS OK. I got 500 RPM.
2. Check voltage at magneto pins should have:
Pin 4, 0 V
Pin 5, 12 V
Pin 6, 5 V
If voltage tests good CPS defective.
Voltages readings all OK looks like I'm replacing the CPS. Better find one before I strip it down any further
EDIT: Will also touch base with Dealer regarding error code as suggested.
Tests performed;
1. Check RPM while cranking if approx 300 RPM CPS OK. I got 500 RPM.
2. Check voltage at magneto pins should have:
Pin 4, 0 V
Pin 5, 12 V
Pin 6, 5 V
If voltage tests good CPS defective.
Voltages readings all OK looks like I'm replacing the CPS. Better find one before I strip it down any further
EDIT: Will also touch base with Dealer regarding error code as suggested.
Last edited by a moderator:
G&J
New Member
Sorry for the double post... can they be deleted? My tablet went berko...
UPDATE
Tests performed;
1. Check RPM while cranking if approx 300 RPM CPS OK. I got 500 RPM.
2. Check voltage at magneto pins should have:
Pin 4, 0 V
Pin 5, 12 V
Pin 6, 5 V
If voltage tests good CPS defective.
Voltages readings all OK looks like I'm replacing the CPS. Better find one before I strip it down any further
EDIT: Will also touch base with Dealer regarding error code as suggested
UPDATE
Tests performed;
1. Check RPM while cranking if approx 300 RPM CPS OK. I got 500 RPM.
2. Check voltage at magneto pins should have:
Pin 4, 0 V
Pin 5, 12 V
Pin 6, 5 V
If voltage tests good CPS defective.
Voltages readings all OK looks like I'm replacing the CPS. Better find one before I strip it down any further
EDIT: Will also touch base with Dealer regarding error code as suggested
68ragtop
Well-Known Member
On a healthy system, 500 RPM's crank is normal. 300 is not the norm. I would not be tearing that apart until you talk to the dealer & find out how many minutes where logged when the CPS last faulted. If they do not know, then he didn't read the codes correctly. has it been tripping the maint warning? If not, those are more than likely old codes in its history. I wouldn't be skipping ahead without knowing this info. Can't they give you this info over the phone? maybe see if they saved a screen shot of the log screen. I am guessing not.
68ragtop
Well-Known Member
420966760 is the current part number & replaces 290966760.
What I am getting at with my previous post is, lets say your TPS faulted at 3000 minutes, but your ski has 100 hours on it. That would mean that the CPS fault happened 50 hours ago & could have been 7 years ago. Just saying knowing how to read the codes on a DI is completely different & is very important. DI's self correct set codes when the problem goes away, but store them forever until cleared, They leave the biggest clue with the minute tag next to the code count. If thats not taken into account, code might mean nothing at all.
Last edited by a moderator:
G&J
New Member
Thanks 68Ragtop I appreciate your comments and understand. I was getting a little concerned that every test I ran on the CPS came back if not perfect pretty good.
I have stopped doing anymore until I can have a 'proper' conversation with the Dealer/Tech - I may even see if I can arrange for the unit to be tested again on BUDS and be there myself this time. Clearly I need my own BUDS/Candoo. I'll keep you informed.
I have stopped doing anymore until I can have a 'proper' conversation with the Dealer/Tech - I may even see if I can arrange for the unit to be tested again on BUDS and be there myself this time. Clearly I need my own BUDS/Candoo.
I'll keep you informed.- Status
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