Allen bolts froze on reverse gate mount need help

[Waterbug13]

My 2012 challenger I decided I was going to change the carbon seals since it has around 80 hrs on it and I can't find a water leak. Well these 4 Allen bolts are frozen and will not move even with heat. I've broke off the heads to 2 of them so far. I'm doing both sides and both sides are like this. Anyone have any ideas how to separate these of have a reverse gate mount s they want to sell of know we're I can get two?

 

[rcookr1]

They still sell them I had a 180 fought it and in the end I had to cut it off and replace

 

[Waterbug13]

I went to My seadoo dealer and he said I may have to replace it all. Jet housing and everything since its been in salt water. But he said the jet housings have to be paired since it has twins. I wonder if that's what they recommend and I can still just change one or not

 

[KAcoveno]

I had the same problem since my Speedster 200 is run in salt water. I had to cut the heads off the Allen bolts to get the gate support off. The bolt heads are counter sunk into the gate support so I had to destroy the gate support too. I purchase a new gate support from Amazon.com -- $200. I used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel and it cut the bolt heads like butter. Yank off the gate support. Then use a 1/4" to 1/2" Stud Extractor tool to remove the studs from the pump. You may need to add some heavy-duty heat with a welding torch.

I purchased a 5-pack of M8x120mm 1.25mm Pitch Stainless Steel Hex Socket Head Cap Screws 5pcs from Amazon.com -- $10.61. You will need to purchase the correct bolt length for your boat. My smaller Speedster 150 uses 110 MM bolts. During reassembly do NOT use any thread locking locktight on the bolt threads. Purchase three M8 stainless nylon locking nuts from your local hardware store and use on the back side of the bolts to lock the bolts in. You may only be able to attach nuts to 3 of the bolts. It should be fine. Use plenty of Marine grade antiseize compound on the bolts when reassembling so you will not have this problem the next time you want to remove your jet drive. I check the drive bolts occasionally while the boat is on the trailer to ensure they are tight.

I hope this helps.

 

[Waterbug13]

I had the same problem since my Speedster 200 is run in salt water. I had to cut the heads off the Allen bolts to get the gate support off. The bolt heads are counter sunk into the gate support so I had to destroy the gate support too. I purchase a new gate support from Amazon.com -- $200. I used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel and it cut the bolt heads like butter. Yank off the gate support. Then use a 1/4" to 1/2" Stud Extractor tool to remove the studs from the pump. You may need to add some heavy-duty heat with a welding torch.

I purchased a 5-pack of M8x120mm 1.25mm Pitch Stainless Steel Hex Socket Head Cap Screws 5pcs from Amazon.com -- $10.61. You will need to purchase the correct bolt length for your boat. My smaller Speedster 150 uses 110 MM bolts. During reassembly do NOT use any thread locking locktight on the bolt threads. Purchase three M8 stainless nylon locking nuts from your local hardware store and use on the back side of the bolts to lock the bolts in. You may only be able to attach nuts to 3 of the bolts. It should be fine. Use plenty of Marine grade antiseize compound on the bolts when reassembling so you will not have this problem the next time you want to remove your jet drive. I check the drive bolts occasionally while the boat is on the trailer to ensure they are tight.

I hope this helps.

Thanks for the info! I will take what ever I can get or find. These are new to me so I didn't know to stay away from ones that's been in salt.water or at the very least taken care of better i guess.

 

[JPass]

50/50 acetone and ATF works great as a penetrating oil, although yours might be too far gone for even that.

When re-installing everything be sure to put water proof grease on the threads and shaft of the bolts and also inside the bracket holes. I remove my pump every year for inspecting and I still notice corrosion, but I simply clean, lube, and reinstall.

Moving forward, if you do this yearly, you shouldn't have any future issues. Takes less than an hour to do the two.

 

[Waterbug13]

50/50 acetone and ATF works great as a penetrating oil, although yours might be too far gone for even that.

When re-installing everything be sure to put water proof grease on the threads and shaft of the bolts and also inside the bracket holes. I remove my pump every year for inspecting and I still notice corrosion, but I simply clean, lube, and reinstall.

Moving forward, if you do this yearly, you shouldn't have any future issues. Takes less than an hour to do the two.

Thanks for the tips! Just wish the other owner would have done this.

 

[Waterbug13]

Does anyone know if the color of the wear ring means anything? I found a set of housings asm but it looks like they have white wear rings were mine are blue. They don't know what came off of but it does have the correct reverse gate bracket I need on both. New ones are $200 each just for the bracket and they want $400 for the complete pair. I just didn't know if there was a difference in the housings? Thanks

 

[go_panthers]

I would also make sure to check the sacrificial anodes and replace them. That’s a lot of corrosion, even for salt water.

 

[Waterbug13]

I would also make sure to check the sacrificial anodes and replace them. That’s a lot of corrosion, even for salt water.

They look ok but may need cleaned I'm sure, but it won't be in salt water as long as I own it anyway. If need be I will replace them, thanks for the heads up

 

[briancayko]

The blue wear rings you have probably indicates that they were changed at some point by a previous owner. My 2010 stock rings were white & when I replaced them they were blue.

 

[go_panthers]

They look ok but may need cleaned I'm sure, but it won't be in salt water as long as I own it anyway. If need be I will replace them, thanks for the heads up

The anodes need to be replaced when they start to degrade. They should be corroding instead of your reverse bracket. There are 10 anodes on my 210 Challenger.

 

[rcookr1]

I'm amazed on how much Sea-doo want for those anodes. Anyone fond a good generic one to use

 

[go_panthers]

I'm amazed on how much Sea-doo want for those anodes. Anyone fond a good generic one to use

I use these.

688-45251-01 Yamaha 40-90 HP Outboard Button Zinc Anode

Perfect replacement. $2.60 ea. I replace them every 1-2 years, depending on their end-of-season condition.

 

[Waterbug13]

The anodes need to be replaced when they start to degrade. They should be corroding instead of your reverse bracket. There are 10 anodes on my 210 Challenger.

After seeing what yours looks like yes they do need replaced. Mine are much smaller and rounded. Thank you very much for the pics I didnt realize how much they were were out.

 

[JPass]

Thanks for the link to an alternative zinc. Just ordered 6. I picked up 4 OEM ones a month ago.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I see this all the time, 50/50 is a good choice, paraffin wax traveling into the heated threads or less often even fresh water can help.

A good reason to use studs with nylock nuts in some cases, or most helpful is regular disassembly.

Maybe you can locate an exact replacement part to avoid replacing them both?

Zinc alloys are application specific, there should be salt and fresh water type available.

 

[Waterbug13]

I finally got a chance to work on them and ended up cutting the brackets off and using heat and vise grips to remove what's left. Now to get the nose cones off so I can pull the props and at least one will need to bearings as it turns like they are bad. Should I just go ahead and change both housing bearings? We're or who has the best bearings for these? Once I get all the stuff they didn't take care of from saltwater the boat should be like new again. Thanks everyone for your help