My GTi seems to lack a bilge pump. There appears to be a nice spot for it forward of the engine. Any thoughts on controls, where to put the thru-hull, etc. Any pics of nice installations? Any information on how a stock bilge pump is set up, on models so equipped? Whose pump is used, etc.
Aftermarket Bilge pump Installations
- Thread starter Saqqara
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All Things Custom
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I suggest putting the pump behind the motor. (as you accelerate the water travels to the rear.)the best place I have found is to remove the bailer from the right rear of the ski and put the bilge there. Make sure you plug the bailer tube.
your model does not have VTS so a trick I found was to get a VTS handlebar switch off a VTS model ($30.00 new and much cheaper used) and add the up and down buttons to the pump.
then with the flick of the thumb you have Bilge. You can either bilge into the pump area like a 98 XP or I usually just drill the hole above the tow hook in the rear.
your model does not have VTS so a trick I found was to get a VTS handlebar switch off a VTS model ($30.00 new and much cheaper used) and add the up and down buttons to the pump.
then with the flick of the thumb you have Bilge. You can either bilge into the pump area like a 98 XP or I usually just drill the hole above the tow hook in the rear.
All Things Custom
New Member
Actually now that i think about it I did not plug the bailer, I just took off the plastic end and placed liquid nails in the small crevice next to the drive shaft hump and laid the tube down in it. This way the bailer still works just without the big plastic filter. Then there was room to attach the bilge to the remaining metal strap that used to hold the bailer filter.
My VTS died, so I used it for that. I mounted mine on the left side under the old bailer arm, and tacked it down with a little epoxy.
It works like a charm...My hull leaks so bad I have to hit this about every 10-20 minutes, and it will shoot like this for about 10 seconds.
pumps
I looked at an Academy sporting goods store today and didn't like neither the sizes nor prices of the automatic pumps they had. It's a pretty narrow area there where the bailer fits. Do you use an integrated automatic pump or a pump and a distinct float switch? With the costs of these things, using two components would probably save 50% on replacement after a failure.
My hull seems to leak, too; tied to my pier last night I took on probably three quarts in 10 hours. Is this the nature of the beast, or should I chase it down?
I'm pinching pennies now, so I am probably not going to rush into doing this, though it seems inevitable. My bailers did fine today, and I threw a big cup in the front compartment just in case.
Keep the info coming.
I looked at an Academy sporting goods store today and didn't like neither the sizes nor prices of the automatic pumps they had. It's a pretty narrow area there where the bailer fits. Do you use an integrated automatic pump or a pump and a distinct float switch? With the costs of these things, using two components would probably save 50% on replacement after a failure.
My hull seems to leak, too; tied to my pier last night I took on probably three quarts in 10 hours. Is this the nature of the beast, or should I chase it down?
I'm pinching pennies now, so I am probably not going to rush into doing this, though it seems inevitable. My bailers did fine today, and I threw a big cup in the front compartment just in case.
Keep the info coming.
My pump is the same they sell at academy, I think it is 360gph or so, and about 3-4" diameter. I mounted it under one of the bailer hold-down arms, at a slight angle flat to the inclined part of the floor. I epoxied the red strainer "cap" or bottom part down, then snapped in the pump and put the bailer arm over it for a constant downward pressure (Just because I jump a lot of waves).
Typically, to really empty the hull, I bring it near shore, turn off the engine, and put my knee on the left "wing" of the boat to bring it to a slight left angle, all the water rushes to that side where the bailer is, and then it will suck it dry in about 10 seconds.
Works on the water as well, but will leave a 1/2" or so in the deepest groove of the hull. Sometimes, I will lean on the left side while idling slowly in the water, and it will pull most of it out. This is when I tend to fall off
Typically, to really empty the hull, I bring it near shore, turn off the engine, and put my knee on the left "wing" of the boat to bring it to a slight left angle, all the water rushes to that side where the bailer is, and then it will suck it dry in about 10 seconds.
Works on the water as well, but will leave a 1/2" or so in the deepest groove of the hull. Sometimes, I will lean on the left side while idling slowly in the water, and it will pull most of it out. This is when I tend to fall off
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