Advice on first getting a 2003 GTI LE-RFI back in working order

[cope99]

Hello All,
This is my first attempt at fixing up a seadoo, I'm excited to learn. So the deal is this, with a house I purchased, I also took possession of a 2003 GTI LE-RFI bombardier. It seems that it has been sitting on a lift at the end of the dock, out in the elements, for over 12 years. I know this doesn't prove anything, but the engine looks fairly clean and when I hook up a new battery, the display is operational. I could tell it had 160 hours, 1/2 tank of gas, etc...

My question is, what is the recommended procedure, 1st steps when trying to bring a ski back to life. I know there would be many other steps to fix up, depending on the specific issues that are identified... just looking for first step suggestions. I believe I'll want to do the basics like drain gas and oil, replace spark plugs... but with the age and such, should I replace the gas lines, clean gas tank? I did a quick search of the forum and couldn't find a past post that dealt with the 101 basics steps. I really hope I can get this running, I currently own a 2013 GTX 4 tec, it would be nice to have two to ride with family. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!

 

[mikidymac]

First drain the gas and replace the in-tank fuel filters. I would probably drain the oil and change the filter and put in fresh seadoo XP-S full synthetic 2 stroke oil. Change the balancer shaft oil. Change the jet pump oil and get a good name brand battery.

Make sure you can turn the engine over by hand first with the plugs out before you spend a dime to make sure it isn’t locked up.

A little oil in the spark plug holes can’t hurt. Don’t add any additives like seafoam.

 

[cope99]

Hello mikidymac - Outstanding, thank you. I will follow this in order. I'm sure I will be back soon. I am learning a ton from this forum.

 

[cope99]

ok, went down the list (drain oil & gas, changed oil filter,etc...) then tried to hand turn the engine... that was a no go. This sets me on a whole new path to getting this up and running. I'll search the forum for the next direction, but I would be grateful for advice or to point me in the right direction. I've attached a photo of the old spark plug, I'm guessing rust is a bad sign.

 

[mikidymac]

Yes, very bad sign. I'm going to say it's sitting with water in the engine.

You will have to do it anyways so pull the pump just for the heck of it and then see if it will turn.

If it doesn't pull the head. Don't yank the engine until you report back even if it is bad.

 

[cope99]

So is this bad? A little WD-40 and duct tape I should be up and running, right? : ) I knew I was in trouble when taking out the bolts, they were caked in corrosion. You called it, yup there is still water in the cast. I don't want to give up on this, should I take out the engine? Thanks for all your help, I'm learning tons and am enjoying the process.

 

[cope99]

I'm in the process of getting ready to pull the engine. Let me know if I should proceed. Thanks

 

[mikidymac]

Well, how much do you want to spend? It’s going to be at least $1,000 to replace the engine then you still need to see why it failed so you don’t trash the new one.

 

[cope99]

Well, the good news is I'm going into this as a "learning experience". It's OK to put more info it then it's worth overall (within reason that is) as long as I'm learning.

 

[GGuillot]

So is this bad? A little WD-40 and duct tape I should be up and running, right? : ) I knew I was in trouble when taking out the bolts, they were caked in corrosion. You called it, yup there is still water in the cast. I don't want to give up on this, should I take out the engine? Thanks for all your help, I'm learning tons and am enjoying the process.

Wow, lot of corrosion building up in that head, but a good media blast on the parts should clean it up well. I just went through a 787 carb motor that took on water and sat up for about a year. Previous owner had a poor rebuild done that caused it, the cylinders were bored but the RAVE valves were not trimmed, so it rubbed a hole in a piston and locked the motor, filled up with water, total mess. I'm at about $950 on the rebuild, had the cylinders re sleeved to stock bore, new top end piston kit, new rebuilt crank, rebuilt balance shaft, rotary valve bearings etc, gasket set and so forth.

I'd budget for at least $1000 whether you want to learn or core swap through a PWC vendor. I'm all about doing it myself, because you never know the work of others if they cut a corner or not. Previous owner used a recommended PWC rebuild house and it wasn't done right. Take your time, but know your limits, there's help on here if you need it.

 

[cope99]

Good deal, thank you both. I'm guessing my next step is to pull out the engine and start to disassemble. I've sprayed PB blaster on the siezed pistons, so hopefully that will free then up. I guess I really won't know the damage until I get down into the crank.

 

[GGuillot]

Best you can hope when you dissemble is that the cases, head, stator, and flywheel are all salvageable. You can core swap and purchase a crank or balance shaft, have the cylinders re sleeved or bored, and purchase a top end piston kit. May want to download a service manual, gives a good break down and guidance of your specific engine.

 

[mikidymac]

Make sure you pull the rear PTO before pulling the engine out of the hull.

 

[cope99]

Thanks and will do. The drive shaft isn't coming out easy... will have to work on that

 

[mikidymac]

Remove the clip under the stainless hat before you pull the pump. It’s what seals against the carbon ring keeping water out of the hull.

 

[cope99]

10-4 will do. Thanks again for all the help!