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Adding 2nd Battery seadoo sportster

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pspaullys

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Can anyone confirm if you add a second battery with a BEP switch on our Seadoo Boats do the two batteries have to be matching? Cause the shop that is doing my stereo install said I have to run matching batteries if I want to run the switch on the both positon.
 
Not correct. In fact, you should use a deep cycle for your electronics and not one for your starting.

It would be a good thing to have an isolator but it is not required.
 
I did buy a isolator switch with 3 positions. 1,2 and both. However I was told if I want to run the boat in the both positon the batteries must be the same or I could fry my electronics.
 
I did buy a isolator switch with 3 positions. 1,2 and both. However I was told if I want to run the boat in the both positon the batteries must be the same or I could fry my electronics.

From all I have heard and read that is not a requirement. I owned a 27 foot Searay for 11 years with three batteries. Every year I would replace one of the batteries just to keep them fresh. Which meant every three years they were cycled to a new battery. I used a deep cycle for my electronics and two regulars for my staring circuits. I honestly do not think I ever bought the same type or style battery the entire time I owned it.
 
Did a little digging and could not find anything to say you MUST match batteries with one exception.
Match the same style, as in Gel with Gel, AGM with AGM, Wet with Wet.. (Which makes sense to me,,,)

Here is a cut and paste...


Stay with one battery chemistry (flooded, gel or AGM). Each battery type requires specific charging voltages and currents. Mixing battery types can result in under- or over-charging, which may mean replacing all batteries on board at the same time.
Never mix old batteries with new ones in the same bank. Old batteries tend to pull down the new ones to their deteriorated level.
Regulate charge voltages based on battery temperature and acceptance (either manually or with smart-sensing devices) to maximize battery life and reduce charge time. Ensure that your charging system is capable of delivering sufficient amperage to charge the battery banks efficiently.
Keep batteries clean, cool and dry.
Check terminal connectors regularly to avoid loss of conductivity.
Check fluid levels and add distilled water to flooded lead acid batteries when needed. Keep batteries charged; leaving them in a discharged state for any length of time will damage them and lower their capacity; it also reduces lifetime.
Clean corrosion with a paste of baking soda and water.
 
Oh well that's probably what they meant then thanks for clarifying that up. Do you think it could cause any problem if I put a bigger deep cycle battery in for my 2nd battery? Like maybe go with a group 31? My starting battery is a group 24.
 
Oh well that's probably what they meant then thanks for clarifying that up. Do you think it could cause any problem if I put a bigger deep cycle battery in for my 2nd battery? Like maybe go with a group 31? My starting battery is a group 24.

Based on my personal past, no. But,,, I can only state that with my past being my Searay which had twin in-line six cylinder engines. So as far as temperamental electronics from the view of the engines, there really were none, (Such as MPEM and what not).

I had the deep cycle for my electronics and good cranking battery for my starting circuits..
 
No...batteries will reach an equilibrium AFA state of charge & capacity.

If you were going to run two batteries off a single charger on land, it would be *better* to have identical models, but still not really a mandatory requirement.

I've been running two different brand/capacity/age batteries in my 96 Challenge, with a selector switch, for six years, with no problems. I do have two on-board charges, one for each battery, tho.
 
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